AE86.........

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Airjockie

Watanabe Whore!!!
Rest In Peace
things and shit happens....so I might need to get rid of it, for cash and maybe a gas decent honda....pm offers..



I'm buying a house...and I have to commute now... so a better gas mpg car and a little money will come in handy.

I should have the car done to a point to where it will be worth a huge amount of money....in a few weeks....or take it now as is, and save some money.

I still haven't even played with it yet

Anyways...if I do decide to sell the damned car, it will be missed...since I have had the car for over a year now, and have done so much work to it...it has grown on me. NOTE: The car is ugly as hell..no real work went into it to make it pretty...I don't care about looks...I just want something that I can beat on for a season and not have to worry about it till I put it away for the winter. But unfortunately, my time working on the car like I wanted to was cut short many times, so I didn't get it to the point that I wanted to get to.

Anyways...it is still loaded with problems, but I might be able to work them out before I sell it, such as the carb tuning, and whatever else is causing it to run not the way I planned it to run.

anyways here goes the list of work and mods done.

Body:

1985 Toyota SR5 Hatchback
very little rust for a car that has been in the northeast for a lot of years, the prior owner did take care of it, and I also did as much to it to keep it rust free. the known rust is a little bit of rust under the battery tray, a few specs of rust on the inside of the front wheel wells, and a spec or two on the rear wheel wells, I noticed the the driver door had a spot or two on the inside of the door, and the rear hatch has the most rust on the car, the window on the hatch leaks a little bit...but I am looking for a replacement hatch so I can sell the car as 99% rust free...I have that much pride in the fact there there is only this much body rust. And It does have the Sprinter Zenki JDM (actual) taillights.

Engine:

I took out the 4A-C motor and trany, and installed a 4A-GE motor and trany, did the full SR5-GTS swap on the car, from the fuel tank to the fuel lines, all the way up to the full wiring harness. The car was running great on the Fuel Injection, and everything was peachy-king, but when the time emmisions came around, it failed because I didn't have the EGR system connected, and I couldn't find the full EGR system anywhere at that time. I had planned to swap the motor out with a red-top 4A-GE that I had, and run some carbs on it. Well, the CT emmissions was halted due to a lot of complications within the shops doing the testing, so the state halted the testing completely. So now was my chance to put on the carbs I had, and I did the swap once more. I was haveing a problem with one carb, and it ran too lean for too long, and just didn't want to run right...so I pulled the head, and looked and though I saw a cracked block, but it was just a scratch, but I decided to go ahead and build a motor for it anyways. I located a decent 4A-GE AE92 7 rib block and head, cleaned it all up, inspected everything, and swapped out the internals with the 17,000 mile red-top that I had, everything worked out perfect for the fit and clearances, except I had one minor problem with one piston ring, and thats why the motor that was in Japan was junked and sent to the states, one of the compression rings was missing an inch of the ring, so I swapped the bluetop's ring onto the piston, it didn't fit...so I sat for 4 hours sanding and grinding that ring to perfection, and made it fit better than the other rings, and the engine compression tests that I monitored showed it to be a fully funtional ring, and did better than the other pistons...so I lucked out. I have the JDM Redtop's crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, rings, bearings (all), flywheel, clutch, and camshafts in/on the USDM Bluetop engine 7 ribbed block and head. And that even includes the high compression pistons that average around 10.3 C/R. I have a used HKS 1mm Headgasket that I took apart and sprayed all the surfaces with the copper head gasket maker spray and promply torqued down everything to factory specs. Right now it appears that the camshaft seal leaks a little, so I replaced one of them soon and well get to the other one when I do the head gasket again, cause I hate leaks. Anyways...all the parts that were time allowing and when I had the time, were sandblasted and cleaned up, then repainted....I got crazy , and did my own little ghey color scheme...but I guess I will come and tell the truth on why I did it. When I drifted at one of the DOW's, I had a waterpump bolt break and the waterpump was leaking on my Z, and with the lack of any real lighting where I was parked, I couldn't see anything...so this time I planned ahead and used as many wild colors so that what little light was emmited, I could still see where leaks and bolts were, hence...the funky ugly ghey engine...all the bolts were painted bright, and every other part is it's own sepperate color. The Carbs are Mikuni 44pph side draughs, and they rock, but too bad I don't have them tuned yet....but they are loud....this car is far beyond being streetable (legally ) anymore, unless a resonator is installed over the carbs....they would just scare the living shits out of old ladies on the sidewalks, and raise an eyebrow of any cops when you drive by. I have an small Napa low pressure fuel pump, and a Jegs FPR on the system..., and that should be enough....if you buy the car, then you can spend the extra $100-300 for a name brand pump that does the same thing..your choice. I also have installed an MSD SCI ignition unit, with a n MSD Blaster Coil, and an MSD coil wire, running to the stock dizzy, and new Accel Thundersport 300+ spark plug wires leading to 4 new Boshe Platinum single prong spark plugs. I have also ported the exhaust side of the head to match the gasket on the header, and polished it. I left the intake alone because I wanted the rough walls to disturb the air charge to better optimize the carbs. The intake is a JDM Carb intake, that I have seen it in Japanese magazines that run over $600 just for the mani. The carbs were rebuilt when I bought them, but I have had them apart many times in the last few weeks, cleaning them and makeing sure everything is in tip-top shape...and they are. The engine has a new waterpump, altenator, but the timing belt is in near new condition. It didn't have any wear on it from the JDM engine, so I re-used it, but it is super easy to change in this car, it can be done in 30 minutes. As for how the engine run's..it runs just as I wanted it to, until I drive it. I think the redtop cams might be the problem or I'm running it to rich. I bought a new O2 sensor and an Air/fuel guage to see whats going on, but I think the cheap guage doesn't work, so I'll buy another one in a few days to see whats going on. The header is a 4-2-1 type header, it looks like a real old TRD header, but I couldn't find any markings on it to verify who made it, but the exit diameter on the exhaust is 2 1/4 inch, so I fabbed up a full exhaust that was 2 1/4 all the way back...under the diff, and plenty of room for side to side swing. I made it so that 4 nuts, and a release of one rubber hanger and the exhaust will come strait down...for those nights that open headers are allowed on the tracks...hehe, and super easy to install again. The muffler is a new CherryBomb Turbo II muff, welded onto the pipe, but I left enough meat on the pipe so that you can cut it off with a hacksaw and weld on whatever muffler you want...it is also 2 1/4 ID. I left the complete wireing harness installed in the car, in case I wanted to go back to Fuel Injection, but I gave away the parts needed for the fuel injections system, like the mani, injectors, throttle body...etc. but those parts are easy to come by cheaply at a junk yard. I found out why the carbs are giveing me the problems...it's the venturies...I have 34 mm venturies in the 44 pph mikuni's..and one this engine build up..they should be 37-40mm...and they are about $14 each and 4 are needed...and the blocks are a size 8 and they would run better with a size OE, and then the jets can be tuned to match the new setup...I'll have a list of what parts are needed to make this monster rip it up..and the parts if bought new would run from $200-300.....but the results would be awesome. I parked the car and moved on to my Z's rebuild because I needed to get rid of a junk Z and I didn't have time to get back to the AE86 this season. So prolly a total in the full parts list would be carb parts at the most $300, rear main seal $7, and a new headgasket $60....The head gaske t had a few drips of oil so I think it should be replaced...instead of trusting that used TRD gasket. and the rear main seal is leaking a tad...so I didn't want to spray any oil on the clutch, so I parked it,....and it's sat since then..about 3 months.

Suspention:

I took the stock SR5 struts out and installed brand new Bilstein HD's, but the stock springs are still in place. I had plans to get some TRD springs, but my budget just didn't allow it.

Brakes:

The fronts are still just plain SR5 brakes, but I installed new pads, and lubed everything up. I had a problem with the right front calipher, but I got a rebuild kit, and rebuilt it. The rear brakes are from a GTS, so they are disk brakes, I had the rotors turned, and put new pads on there as well. When I went to bleed the brakes after the install, the bleeder broke off in the caliper, so I went out and bought a new caliper on the rear drivers side. AS they are set up now, they work great...I saw no need in upgradeing them any farther. All the brake fluids have been drained, flushed and new DOT-4 fluid serviced.

LSD:

When I did the swap, I put the rear axel assymboly from an 85 AE86 coupe on, but I forgot to check the production date...and when my wife bought a new LSD, she though it was a Zenki LSD, while the actual LSD was a Kouki. So regaurdless...she bought the Zenki LSD for the car. IT is a new TRD 2 Way LSD, and it is a Zenki. So I swapped out the old Kouki LSD and sourced some Zenki half shafts and trimmed them to fit. I only cut off 8mm from the end, and they fit perfectly. The axel assymboly had a lot of old rust and crud on it, but it cleans up super easy with a wire brush on an air tool...I just didn't have the time to clean the whole axel the way I wanted to...So I just cleaned up the areas that needed attention and a few areas that I was testing on how to clean it. So if it's clean and painted in one area and the rest of the axle housing is cruddy...don't freak, I was just testing how deep the surface corrosion went..and it was just on the surface. It is held in place with the stock 4 link system, due to my budget, I couldn't get the adjustables in time...but they were planned into the project.

Interior:

The interior is still mostly the stock Blue SR5 interior, when we got the car it was in mint condition, and I have damaged or dirtied a few peices, but thay will not be an issue to clean up or replace. I still have a few parts that I haven't installed or cleaned up, but they are here, a few other parts are MIA. I have installed a beatup, cut up GTS seat in the driver area for the extra support for drifting, but due to the wife...the primary passenger...she liked the SR5 seat better...so it stayed. But I have the other GTS seat here. I installed a new Sony MP3/CD player in the car and hooked up a few of the speakers. I built the car to drift, not play music....hehe. Also the Air/fuel meter has been permanately installed into the little hole that is next to the ashtray. And the GTS guage cluster was installed, so the miles will be different than what the title claims are on it. I'm still trying to get the tach and the speedometer fixed and working, right now they are dead due to the MSD ignition system installed and the SR5 tranny swap. Carpet in the car is near mint condition, it just needs to be cleaned up a little.

Wheels...

I have a lot of wheels and tires that go with the car...from the pizza cutter with nitto 555R's (2) to the stock 13" with new tires (2), and if I like you or you have a little extra money...then I might trow in the Watanabe's with the ES100's on them (2), and a few other drift rims and tires I have laying around.

Paint....

It's still blue...stock...and it needs a little work...I have 6 cans of gloss white spray paint, and 4 cans of gloss black spray paint..and then you can turn the car into a panda. One of the fenders was replaced, and the color is a little off....so...the cosmetics of the car is your choice.....


Why....

Well....I'm buying a house...I have room for the car...but the little extra money will deffinately help. After all the back breaking work I put into the car....it's worth what I am asking for it....or actually more. I have to commute 30 miles each way after I get this house...so I need a fuel economi car.....and the turbo CRX only gets 17 miles a gallon, the Z only gets 20 mpg, and the Jeep only gets 12 mpg....this AE86 might get 20...but since I haven't really tested it,...and as loud as it is...it wouldn't make a good daily driver for me....the road I have to commute on is full of people that can't drive...so if any of the cars I have...except the Jeep gets crashed into...I would be heart broken. Plus I couldn't torment this car or the other 2 built cars I have to the North East snow and salt on the roads...that's what the Jeep is for.


Price.....

After seeing what these cars are getting...I know how much it can sell for....I'm going to be streight on this...My wife payed $1500 for the SR5 as is...cause of the condition, she bought the Cusco Front tower bar, and the LSD, and I bought the shocks, the engine, the hunreds of dollars to build the engine, the carbs, and I did all the labor over a year. This car should be priced around the high 5K's area, and if it was running perfect, and drifted...then the price goes down....but it's still a virgin...not a diamond in the rough....it's been cut a few times and just needs to be polish to make a perfect diamond. The wife wants to get $2K's to goto her...since that was how much raw money went into the car from her....and the parts that I dumped into this car exceedes over $2K's and that's not including any sore backs, mashed fingers, bloody cuts, and a lot of sweat....plus a fully re-built engine that you can say was hand built by Airjockie. So it should be priceless... But I have to move, and I got too much shit to buy and pack, and basically everything associated with moveing a personal house 30 miles...like tow trucks, U-haul trucks, kegs, pizza, internet service....etc. So I'm going to cut this down and make a deal....I know I can get an easy $4K for it, but I would be happy with $2K's and a decent gas economy car that can get to 54 MPG all the time and has a radio in it....the 1985-1987 Honda CRX HF can get that kinda milage all the time...so that's what I am looking for...but...the road I will be driving on will be to fast paced for that car to keep up to traffic....I'll take it if I can get it...but I also wouldn't mind a simple Honda Hatchback that I don't need to fix up to be legal and is not too bad on gas...if it can get 28+ MPG's...then I'll think of that trade....or I'll take another $1500-1000 cash if you don't have a car for trade...and the total will be about $3500-3000...300 if your good at lowballing.....

But.......

I'm still not completely decided on selling or getting rid of this car....yet. If money and a car comes to me to look at, or just the right amount of money....then I will prolly decide on the spot to take it, and carry on with my life without an AE86.....Since I have the Z...and it needs just a few more parts to be completed, as well as the Boosted CRX that will compete very hard next year...so in short...I guess I can live happilly with two built race cars and not 3. If not...then it will stay in the family and will be completed...race proved, prettied up...and then a higher price will be set on it. And since the real Movie of Initial D will be out next year....the car will be litterally priceless.....haha


Location....

I'm in Stratford CT, 06614...

AIM.....

Airj0ckey

Pics...

All scattered through out these galleries....

http://www.redpepperracing.com/gallery/airjockie

Mostly here...

http://www.redpepperracing.com/gallery/album141
and
http://www.redpepperracing.com/gallery/album279

There are a few things that I am forgetting about on this list...but fawk it...I forgot a lot of the shit...or I want to forget a lot of the pain I put into this car. My pain your gain. And if your a super local guy, if you buy the parts...I'll still install them to the car, and help tune it if I have time. I still want to play with it...at least a few times

Note.....after a week...this might be posted on Ebay......
 
why dont you get the 4a-g tuned for economy? its 1.6l, econo hondas are 1.6l; why let honda hog the economy spot light? :D
 
the carbs meter the gas just right...for the airflow the engine suck's...and that's not a problem...but the problem is the higher compression ratio...=more air=more gas...and I gave away the parts to convert it back to the normal set-up...even the fuel tank would need to be changed to take the FI....I had a leaking stand pipe...so I sealed it...sealed it damn good...so only 2 lines going in and out of the gas tank...compared to the 3 lines needed for the normal 4A-ge set up with emmisions controls, I have it set as one supply line and one return line..and when I use the carb's..the return line is not needed...so that extra line might rot away like the other line did...the set up as is, if the carbs are tuned, will work for the rest of the life of the car....but if to fully convert back to a gas econmical car...the tank and the fuel sending unit will need to be changed, along with addind the EGR valve, intake and the other stuff that I blantly gave away to a kid because I wanted more room in my garage. All thought the carbs if tuned to a gas econ car...then the car wouldn't be fun to drive....even though it was originally carbed before. Funny...I did all that work..and yet the other possibilities for the car amaze me.....simply remove the FI plugs that I filled in the cylinder head, add the fuel rail, put a TPS on the carb shafts and you would have an instant ITB set-up....I should have done that.....but I got to carried away with trying to make the super 44's work....damn...oh well...the wiring is still there and the computer to read the normal TPS if the buyer wants to go that route....


Damn it...now I am getting more idea's hampering the idea to sell the car...so I can get the damn house...and cover the closeing fee's......damn you...at this rate...I'll go mad or insane...wait a minute...I'm already insane for letting this car go that cheap...damn it...I should have made a feeler post to see what someone would pay for it before I mentioned the price......CRap..I once again loose out on possible money for my future mod's.....err house....
 
seen the car, driven the car. its good stuff...

ive mashed my fingers up on that sucker as well. :)
 
Just a thought...if I were to buy it, but have no way of finishing it, could I pay you more to finish it up and get it race/drift ready? Let me know what you think.
 
I'm thinking about getting the parts needed this week...and finishing it up...the price will be decided after the tuneing and testing is done...if I'm still not happy with the way it runs and handles...then it will sell for cheap....if it runs the way I want it to...and if it proves to be competitively strong...then it may just go up on Ebay...and be sold as is.

That's why if you buy it now....and I do no work to it...it will be cheaper....besides..the head gasket is a 30 minute job, the rear main seal is a two hour job, and the carbs only take 40 minutes to swap around the parts....


Scary...I'm almost stoked about getting it running perfect again...and if I like it...then I guess the CRX will be the next on the line to get posted in the for sale area....and if I post the CRX...it will take two pages of typing up the post. :ph34r:
 
Well, let me know if you want to sell it. I wouldn't be interested if its not up to par for you. I wouldn't be able to do any of the work you just mentioned. And please, even if you think you may want to keep it after you get it done, let me know and I may be able to talk you out of wanting to keep it. I've been following your work and wishing I had that car for months now. I've always wanted one of those, but they just don't exist in this area (mid west). Good luck!
 
$1700 + $1200 = $2900.......that's fuggen cheap for a built AE86.....

But if you drive that Z up here...chances are...you wont want to give it up that easy.....hehe
 
Well...I'm ordering the carb parts needed today...so the tuning should be better...and the rear main seal is on the way. So hopefully...in a week the car should be up and running and better than ever...and that also means the price might go up a little....hehe
 
Carb parts needed to make a monster....$225....

they came in, and I already installed them and also cleaned up more parts on the carb like the starting disk and also set the floats to where they should be, and increased the fuel pressure...its still bogging....but it wants to fly...

I also ordered the 3 layer metal headgasket this morning...so it should be here in a day or two...and I talked to the guy at ParadiceRacing about my problems with this car...and he simply said...it's a timing issue...I'm at 13-15 degrees at idle...and I need to be at 35 degrees at WOT...so....I'm waiting for a timing light to get here...and I'll give it a shot. The camshaft seal and the head gasket is spewing oil...as well as the rear main seal...but it's a matter of the parts arriving, and the mad dash to install them. Plus the guy at paradice also has a little interest in the car...he's seen the pics online...and well....I just got to write up a little something...and he might sponser or just buy the damn thing from me...he's mentioning ITB's, and a stand alone fuel system.....hehe...

but not to jump the guns to much...I drove the car around last night in the dark...and I forgot how well it lights up the road for stock headlights....and the cool flip-up shit.....hehe.


And on the way home this morning...the Z blew a tranny. sounds liek a bearing internally let loose.....1, 2, 3rd gears has a new cool grinding noise...while 4th is noce an quite...and 4 is the 1:1 gear....so that means that a main bearing inside the trany has let loose...but it sounds so fucking cool......like an F-1 racecar....whiiirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, whiiiiiiiiiiiiirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, Whiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiirrrrrrrrrrrrr. and then 4th is like brummmmmmm. :lol:
 
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