All Honda stuff at my house.... everything $5000.
includes: 87 CRX, 86 Civic, a few engines, one just rebuilt, turbos, parts from hell, The crx race car that will be deadly from light to light, or will kill anything on the autocross pad, could be sleeper, could be showcar, could be mad tyte JDM, all at the same time. Enough parts to keep it alive or deck it out to the extreme.... I've ran out of money to do the house and time to do the cars, and I got to start thinning the heard.
All Datsun/Nissan Stuff at my house....Everything $15000.
74 260Z, 76 280Z, and both built up to an extent...use both and make a drift team, or make a monster from one using the parts from the other. Sweet rides, just lacks a little body work and a few other parts for each car to make both cars stupid awesome.
And the wheel and tire collection will be split up to go with the cars they match...
I'm also considering trades....the right shop, the right mechanic, the right person, or the right landscaper/construction team....... I'm kicking the idea in my head, that all 4 cars, using the parts I have, the parts they can come up with, the work they can do....well, how can I say this.....
uhm....if a landscaper can come out, design the patio and surrounding area, and a few other spots to increase the curb appeal of the house, get the materials, and build it, then they get the honda's and all the parts..work and materials must be close to $5000...
If a construction worker(s) can do the same for the house.. windows, roof, siding, all or some...to the equivilant of $15000, then they get both Z's.
If a shop can take both Z's, use the parts I have, or add the parts they can get, pimp both Z's out to be extreme in someway....then when the work is done, I'll look, drive, and test both Z's...and the one I like, I'll keep, and the other one will be theirs. The work and extra parts should be in the $9000 area for both cars, and the cars should be appraised at the $15,000 area each when finished...totaling $30000 and both should be show car quality and drift ready. I know I got them for damn near cheap, but the accumulated parts on both cars, the other parts on the market, and the body work that $9000 can be put into both of them, will make them worth more than what they are worth right now. Do $9K of work, get a $15K car...and the build should/will be posted, so the shop will end up with alot of free advertising....and once that shop has been known to do great work to Z's, then a ton of other customers will follow. Customers that have the money to build up Z's.
Car spec's:
87 CRX SI.
Body was crunched in a accedent in 1999, I've been working on it off an on since, the frame has been repaired, the body parts all line up, and look sweet when it was slightly done....it needs a full paintjob, I won't lie...I spraypainted it, and then raced it a few time, the body flex cracked paint. But, the rust on the car is exceptional since the car came from FL, and has only been in CT to be driven one year in the last 5 years, and parked since then. Has never seen snow or salt. It has mugen CF-48s, 13x5.5, with advan A008s, and they have also sat on the car for a year, so burn of the tires, and I have two new hoosiers that will go with it...it is set up for extreme grip and extreme get out of the hole driving, not intended for street, or extreme high speeds...can be done though with a little work. And thats what the car needs...is a lot of work. The engine I have is rebuilt by me, and everything looks good, and it should hold up for a few years if the tuning is taken care of, for 9 psi....yes...it's boosted. I have a HMT that I did for it years ago, it ran fin, but he original engine had bad rings and it died due o the burn thru of an exhaust valve...and it sat parked for a while, unile I had time to pull the engine and trany and rebuild another engine I had laying around. The trany has a shifting problem, it grinds going into 2nd gear, but the trany on the 86 Civic is the same thing, all it needs to be done is to pull that trany out, and swap the diffs....a days work. The diff in the CRX has the Phantom Grip LSD pack, and it was ran with no other problem on Mobil full synthetic ATF...yes Automatic Transmision Fluid...when you pull the trany apart, you will see the tiny roller bearings and the same size bearings are ran in Jags, healeys, and sprites...and a good freind suggested the oil switch...I did, and it shifted better, had no problems, and the diff continued to work like a bat out of hell. I took the stock flywheel off, and had it lightened at a machine shop, that alone costed me over to $250, and its still cast iron, lightened by 20%, and still stronger than the alum FW's and I know it's balanced because I watched the shop do it. It's still a little heavier than alum, but they don't make an Alum FW for this car or engine. and the weight is perfectly matched to the car, IMHO. It has a fairly new ACT heavy duty pressure plate that has about 6000 miles on it, still new, and contact to the disk is super hard, the pressure required to dis-ingage it is a lot, I've already cracked one set of pedals to use this pressure plate, and the new set of pedals looks better than the ones that broke. The ACT street sidk blew up on me, so I found it better to use autozone cheap disks, and just spend a weekend to change them out when they start to slip...and they will slip in this car...average life would be about 3,000 miles when raced. I have a new Exedy disk I'll slap with the car if I finish building it, or if you buy it. And the other parts are as is....
New Tokico Illumina's...5 way adjustable shocks and struts.
New rear coilovers with 450lb/inch springs.
Full suspension bushing set, only about 5000 miles on them.
Full stainless steel flexable brake lines.
Brembo Blanks, Autozone pads...car sat so long that the rotors are rusted...but a little driving and they will clean them selves up...or they are super cheap and can be replaced for $19 each.. The rears are still drums, but had new shoes installed, new brake cylinders installed, and the drums were turned down....they grabbed.
Drivers seat was overstuffed with foam on the bolsters, and they gave me a great fit, the passenger seat still looks brand new.
Interior has been waterlogged, due to a half a winter with out the mirrors installed on the doors, but I have a fresh carpet in a box ready to be swapped out. The doors will need some work...I traded the mint doors for an engine, and I slapped on some spare doors, they don't have the mirron on them, but I have two sets of mirrors that are for them, and the lower skins are DX trim, but I also have SI door trim panels to go on, they just need to be painted, along with the car.
The car has the rare rear 6" spealer mounts and covers.
There is a super mint Mugen Steering wheels and Momo hube installed on the car...the set-up costed me over $600....
I have a rare rear garnish that also goes with the car, I bought it Japan for $300, and over here there is no price set for it.
There are real JDM toys in the car, like a PINGU light on the dash, and the sacred duel cupholder with adjustable angle.
No sterio...tough luck...but I can throw in a sony CD payer with the car, it has fresh pionerd or deadwoods in the door and back speakermount...I forgot what I put in...
There is a full set of door locks and ignition w/kes going with the car...you'll have to change them out.
It has an ignition cut/car alarm with a super loud speaker...the battery is dead on the remote....
and FMU, an IC, and a few turbos will be sold with it as well...you can pick your trim, and set it up the way you want. If you go with the T25, then you;ll have to get an adapter plate made, but the original turbo setup I had made for it has a 13B welded to a DX manifold, and I was spooling at 500rpms...great for getting out of the hole, but sucked on the highway. + the 2" exhaust didn't help any. But a 13B, 14B, and a T25 will go with the car, and all the other stuff I have to get the car put back together and running.....you will not need to get anything to finish this car, except maybe some holes and lines for the engine.....remember..this was 1987...and it's now 2006. Rubber goes bad after a while.
Anyways, theres more that I'm leaving out...this is only the info on the 87 CRX-SiT....and there is prolly a few more pages I could write up on this car, and there are still 3 other cars to write up on....The people who have rode in it, drove it, or have seen it perform...even though I suck at driving it....can vouch for the car. Is it and the civic parts car worth that much...hell yes...but only too the true oldschool crowd... what can, should or could be done with this car is up to you, but I will give a suggestion on how to build it, I will give as much information as possible to build it, and I will help to extent on building it if your local. One thing for sure, you will not have another car after you drive this possible beast, and you will get infected with the virus to make it the best you can, even if that means you have to buy a house, a garage, and tools to finish building it....it will be worth it to beat the living snot out of cars that are worth 5-20 times more.....and you can tell them a Honda beat them...
Recap....for the CRX...
ACT Clutch...$250+
Full suspension bushings...$120+
Phanton Grip LSD...$250+
Tokico Shocks and struts...$500+
Rear Coil-overs...$150+
Mugen CF-48's... $500+
Advan A008's...(used but still a few events on them)$180+
Mugen Steering Wheel/Momo Hub...$600+
Rebuilding an engine...$500+
Mugen Rear Garnish center panel...$300+
Fresh Carpet (used) $80+...
Seat refab for stiffer bolsters (drivers only)...$20
Turbos and stuff to boost the car...$500+
Boost and Air/fuel guages...$100
Door skins and mirrors..$100+
a frame with very little rust in the north-east...priceless
A rare Mugen leather shift knob I found in Japan..costed me $50 but prolly worth $150...
Mugen Horn Button...original...$50+
two fresh axles...$200
New windsheild...$150
SiSteve's (AKA Bob Vila) old car (used for parts) and still have most of them, $300
Some brake work I've done years ago, but should still be fine....$100
2 new Hoosiers...$150
100% real JDM toys and sticker in or on the car....$100
Plus more done to the car than I can remember...or list....but the value of the car as is, is more than what I am asking for or services rendered....Spend $2000 max for yard decorations, and get a car worth over 5Ks.....but you have to finish bulding it.....If I was young again, and saw this offer, I would jump on it in a heartbeat. For pics of the car, click this link...
Airjockie's Pics and look for teh red 87 CRX...
The 86 Civic hatchback Si:
It was running ans driving, but last year I took it to a track and was low on oil, and I drove on a long sweeper, and oil starvation happened...the conrods are knocking, and I have new bearings already to go in. I bought the car for $400, and I got it running by replacing the valve guide stem seals, installed a good alt, and cleaned it up. My neighbor backed into the drivers fender, and I gave up on the car. Since it was running previously, I know that all the parts on it is good....and all the parts will swap over to the CRX for the rebuild. Plans for taking the trans was already made....but I never got to it. I also installed some stiffer springs on the back, some Tokico HP's on all four corners, and the steelies (one bent)has Advan A048's on them. They grip, and the ride was fun. The car does have rust, but nothing in the panhard bar area...and thats important, the rest of the rust is fixable, if you want to spend the time. would be a fun sleeper project if you had another motor to swap in the DOHC area.
The Z's:
The red Z: 1974/december is the build date... And when I got the car, if was already rebuilt to an extent. But it does have rust on some body panels, and on the frame rails. Very repairable, and once repaired correctly, then it will make the chassis stronger than when it was stock. I've lost track of how many hours I put into this car, but lets say that if it breaks, it's replaced with something better and stronger, and I think I haven't replaced the passengers halfshaft u-joints, the main driveshaft u-joints, and the trany mounts....I built the car up to be driftable, and it still needs a few toys to make it sweet. The hp is still unknown, but its prolly in the 180-200 area. It will spin and smoke tires all day...there is too much to list on the car, so coming to take a look at it, and I'll walk you thru the build and parts added. Right now the drivers door is in work, and then it needs to be done up with some body work and a paintjob....and then it's good to go for anything, daily driver, street, drifting, autocross, or show. It actually gets 18mpg, and if turbo'ed, then a lot less. The rarest part on the car is the Nismo R180 2way LSD, I scored that on whim, they list for over $900, and then I got the 4.11 gears from a Datsun Patrol 4x4 front diff, and they run over $600 if bought seperately. The diff is setup to swap over to CV joint type axles, I still have the stock axles and when they start breaking, then I'll do the CV Axle swap. Engine is the F54/p90 81-83 280ZX motor, NA, with all kinds of goodies, 5 speed swap, ACT clutch, 6 puck springless race disk, and runs sweet. It was leaning out at high RPMs so I just got a new adjustable FPR to put on, might do it this week. A very fun car to drive, and once you drive it you will love it.
includes: 87 CRX, 86 Civic, a few engines, one just rebuilt, turbos, parts from hell, The crx race car that will be deadly from light to light, or will kill anything on the autocross pad, could be sleeper, could be showcar, could be mad tyte JDM, all at the same time. Enough parts to keep it alive or deck it out to the extreme.... I've ran out of money to do the house and time to do the cars, and I got to start thinning the heard.
All Datsun/Nissan Stuff at my house....Everything $15000.
74 260Z, 76 280Z, and both built up to an extent...use both and make a drift team, or make a monster from one using the parts from the other. Sweet rides, just lacks a little body work and a few other parts for each car to make both cars stupid awesome.
And the wheel and tire collection will be split up to go with the cars they match...
I'm also considering trades....the right shop, the right mechanic, the right person, or the right landscaper/construction team....... I'm kicking the idea in my head, that all 4 cars, using the parts I have, the parts they can come up with, the work they can do....well, how can I say this.....
uhm....if a landscaper can come out, design the patio and surrounding area, and a few other spots to increase the curb appeal of the house, get the materials, and build it, then they get the honda's and all the parts..work and materials must be close to $5000...
If a construction worker(s) can do the same for the house.. windows, roof, siding, all or some...to the equivilant of $15000, then they get both Z's.
If a shop can take both Z's, use the parts I have, or add the parts they can get, pimp both Z's out to be extreme in someway....then when the work is done, I'll look, drive, and test both Z's...and the one I like, I'll keep, and the other one will be theirs. The work and extra parts should be in the $9000 area for both cars, and the cars should be appraised at the $15,000 area each when finished...totaling $30000 and both should be show car quality and drift ready. I know I got them for damn near cheap, but the accumulated parts on both cars, the other parts on the market, and the body work that $9000 can be put into both of them, will make them worth more than what they are worth right now. Do $9K of work, get a $15K car...and the build should/will be posted, so the shop will end up with alot of free advertising....and once that shop has been known to do great work to Z's, then a ton of other customers will follow. Customers that have the money to build up Z's.
Car spec's:
87 CRX SI.
Body was crunched in a accedent in 1999, I've been working on it off an on since, the frame has been repaired, the body parts all line up, and look sweet when it was slightly done....it needs a full paintjob, I won't lie...I spraypainted it, and then raced it a few time, the body flex cracked paint. But, the rust on the car is exceptional since the car came from FL, and has only been in CT to be driven one year in the last 5 years, and parked since then. Has never seen snow or salt. It has mugen CF-48s, 13x5.5, with advan A008s, and they have also sat on the car for a year, so burn of the tires, and I have two new hoosiers that will go with it...it is set up for extreme grip and extreme get out of the hole driving, not intended for street, or extreme high speeds...can be done though with a little work. And thats what the car needs...is a lot of work. The engine I have is rebuilt by me, and everything looks good, and it should hold up for a few years if the tuning is taken care of, for 9 psi....yes...it's boosted. I have a HMT that I did for it years ago, it ran fin, but he original engine had bad rings and it died due o the burn thru of an exhaust valve...and it sat parked for a while, unile I had time to pull the engine and trany and rebuild another engine I had laying around. The trany has a shifting problem, it grinds going into 2nd gear, but the trany on the 86 Civic is the same thing, all it needs to be done is to pull that trany out, and swap the diffs....a days work. The diff in the CRX has the Phantom Grip LSD pack, and it was ran with no other problem on Mobil full synthetic ATF...yes Automatic Transmision Fluid...when you pull the trany apart, you will see the tiny roller bearings and the same size bearings are ran in Jags, healeys, and sprites...and a good freind suggested the oil switch...I did, and it shifted better, had no problems, and the diff continued to work like a bat out of hell. I took the stock flywheel off, and had it lightened at a machine shop, that alone costed me over to $250, and its still cast iron, lightened by 20%, and still stronger than the alum FW's and I know it's balanced because I watched the shop do it. It's still a little heavier than alum, but they don't make an Alum FW for this car or engine. and the weight is perfectly matched to the car, IMHO. It has a fairly new ACT heavy duty pressure plate that has about 6000 miles on it, still new, and contact to the disk is super hard, the pressure required to dis-ingage it is a lot, I've already cracked one set of pedals to use this pressure plate, and the new set of pedals looks better than the ones that broke. The ACT street sidk blew up on me, so I found it better to use autozone cheap disks, and just spend a weekend to change them out when they start to slip...and they will slip in this car...average life would be about 3,000 miles when raced. I have a new Exedy disk I'll slap with the car if I finish building it, or if you buy it. And the other parts are as is....
New Tokico Illumina's...5 way adjustable shocks and struts.
New rear coilovers with 450lb/inch springs.
Full suspension bushing set, only about 5000 miles on them.
Full stainless steel flexable brake lines.
Brembo Blanks, Autozone pads...car sat so long that the rotors are rusted...but a little driving and they will clean them selves up...or they are super cheap and can be replaced for $19 each.. The rears are still drums, but had new shoes installed, new brake cylinders installed, and the drums were turned down....they grabbed.
Drivers seat was overstuffed with foam on the bolsters, and they gave me a great fit, the passenger seat still looks brand new.
Interior has been waterlogged, due to a half a winter with out the mirrors installed on the doors, but I have a fresh carpet in a box ready to be swapped out. The doors will need some work...I traded the mint doors for an engine, and I slapped on some spare doors, they don't have the mirron on them, but I have two sets of mirrors that are for them, and the lower skins are DX trim, but I also have SI door trim panels to go on, they just need to be painted, along with the car.
The car has the rare rear 6" spealer mounts and covers.
There is a super mint Mugen Steering wheels and Momo hube installed on the car...the set-up costed me over $600....
I have a rare rear garnish that also goes with the car, I bought it Japan for $300, and over here there is no price set for it.
There are real JDM toys in the car, like a PINGU light on the dash, and the sacred duel cupholder with adjustable angle.
No sterio...tough luck...but I can throw in a sony CD payer with the car, it has fresh pionerd or deadwoods in the door and back speakermount...I forgot what I put in...
There is a full set of door locks and ignition w/kes going with the car...you'll have to change them out.
It has an ignition cut/car alarm with a super loud speaker...the battery is dead on the remote....
and FMU, an IC, and a few turbos will be sold with it as well...you can pick your trim, and set it up the way you want. If you go with the T25, then you;ll have to get an adapter plate made, but the original turbo setup I had made for it has a 13B welded to a DX manifold, and I was spooling at 500rpms...great for getting out of the hole, but sucked on the highway. + the 2" exhaust didn't help any. But a 13B, 14B, and a T25 will go with the car, and all the other stuff I have to get the car put back together and running.....you will not need to get anything to finish this car, except maybe some holes and lines for the engine.....remember..this was 1987...and it's now 2006. Rubber goes bad after a while.
Anyways, theres more that I'm leaving out...this is only the info on the 87 CRX-SiT....and there is prolly a few more pages I could write up on this car, and there are still 3 other cars to write up on....The people who have rode in it, drove it, or have seen it perform...even though I suck at driving it....can vouch for the car. Is it and the civic parts car worth that much...hell yes...but only too the true oldschool crowd... what can, should or could be done with this car is up to you, but I will give a suggestion on how to build it, I will give as much information as possible to build it, and I will help to extent on building it if your local. One thing for sure, you will not have another car after you drive this possible beast, and you will get infected with the virus to make it the best you can, even if that means you have to buy a house, a garage, and tools to finish building it....it will be worth it to beat the living snot out of cars that are worth 5-20 times more.....and you can tell them a Honda beat them...
Recap....for the CRX...
ACT Clutch...$250+
Full suspension bushings...$120+
Phanton Grip LSD...$250+
Tokico Shocks and struts...$500+
Rear Coil-overs...$150+
Mugen CF-48's... $500+
Advan A008's...(used but still a few events on them)$180+
Mugen Steering Wheel/Momo Hub...$600+
Rebuilding an engine...$500+
Mugen Rear Garnish center panel...$300+
Fresh Carpet (used) $80+...
Seat refab for stiffer bolsters (drivers only)...$20
Turbos and stuff to boost the car...$500+
Boost and Air/fuel guages...$100
Door skins and mirrors..$100+
a frame with very little rust in the north-east...priceless
A rare Mugen leather shift knob I found in Japan..costed me $50 but prolly worth $150...
Mugen Horn Button...original...$50+
two fresh axles...$200
New windsheild...$150
SiSteve's (AKA Bob Vila) old car (used for parts) and still have most of them, $300
Some brake work I've done years ago, but should still be fine....$100
2 new Hoosiers...$150
100% real JDM toys and sticker in or on the car....$100
Plus more done to the car than I can remember...or list....but the value of the car as is, is more than what I am asking for or services rendered....Spend $2000 max for yard decorations, and get a car worth over 5Ks.....but you have to finish bulding it.....If I was young again, and saw this offer, I would jump on it in a heartbeat. For pics of the car, click this link...
Airjockie's Pics and look for teh red 87 CRX...
The 86 Civic hatchback Si:
It was running ans driving, but last year I took it to a track and was low on oil, and I drove on a long sweeper, and oil starvation happened...the conrods are knocking, and I have new bearings already to go in. I bought the car for $400, and I got it running by replacing the valve guide stem seals, installed a good alt, and cleaned it up. My neighbor backed into the drivers fender, and I gave up on the car. Since it was running previously, I know that all the parts on it is good....and all the parts will swap over to the CRX for the rebuild. Plans for taking the trans was already made....but I never got to it. I also installed some stiffer springs on the back, some Tokico HP's on all four corners, and the steelies (one bent)has Advan A048's on them. They grip, and the ride was fun. The car does have rust, but nothing in the panhard bar area...and thats important, the rest of the rust is fixable, if you want to spend the time. would be a fun sleeper project if you had another motor to swap in the DOHC area.
The Z's:
The red Z: 1974/december is the build date... And when I got the car, if was already rebuilt to an extent. But it does have rust on some body panels, and on the frame rails. Very repairable, and once repaired correctly, then it will make the chassis stronger than when it was stock. I've lost track of how many hours I put into this car, but lets say that if it breaks, it's replaced with something better and stronger, and I think I haven't replaced the passengers halfshaft u-joints, the main driveshaft u-joints, and the trany mounts....I built the car up to be driftable, and it still needs a few toys to make it sweet. The hp is still unknown, but its prolly in the 180-200 area. It will spin and smoke tires all day...there is too much to list on the car, so coming to take a look at it, and I'll walk you thru the build and parts added. Right now the drivers door is in work, and then it needs to be done up with some body work and a paintjob....and then it's good to go for anything, daily driver, street, drifting, autocross, or show. It actually gets 18mpg, and if turbo'ed, then a lot less. The rarest part on the car is the Nismo R180 2way LSD, I scored that on whim, they list for over $900, and then I got the 4.11 gears from a Datsun Patrol 4x4 front diff, and they run over $600 if bought seperately. The diff is setup to swap over to CV joint type axles, I still have the stock axles and when they start breaking, then I'll do the CV Axle swap. Engine is the F54/p90 81-83 280ZX motor, NA, with all kinds of goodies, 5 speed swap, ACT clutch, 6 puck springless race disk, and runs sweet. It was leaning out at high RPMs so I just got a new adjustable FPR to put on, might do it this week. A very fun car to drive, and once you drive it you will love it.
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