B16 da9 - CEL's 23 & 20

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J

JayDeeEmDC4

Member
*UPDATE* I was getting code 23 along with my usual 20 so I traced the problem to 2 things, 1 being the connection where i hardwired in the plug wasnt soldered so I soldered it, and checked it, still got the code. So I checked the other end of the wire @ the ECU only to find it unplugged completely from the ecu (I have the wire shoved in to pin d3 cause I dont have pins) So i re"shoved" it in and reset the ecu by pulling the hazard fuse (10a) and the ecu fuse (7.5a)...Checked it drove for a few and it still came on again? Any ideas? Whats the chance that it was noty soldered, unplugged AND BAD!! The thing is it takes about 3-4 mns of driving for it to come on. Why is that? Anyone with experience please help me. Thanks
 
UPDATE** Okay last nite i checked my ks wiring and noticed the wire was unplugged from the ecu ( i didnt have pins so the wire is shoved into the d3 pinout) so I plugged it back into the harness and checked it out, drove around and after 4-5 mns of driving, it came back on! Why is this, and whats the chances that it was unplugged and bad?

Anyone have any good ideas on what to check and what to look for? Also I have been having about a 200rpm surge @ stoplights once in a while. Whats this caused by? Thanks ...
 
Your KS code shouldn't throw the check engine light untill after the car is fairly warm and its being driven. I thouhgt i had my fixed untill i started driving around. My KS is broken in half and my vtec still works. Your Knock Sensor not working keeps you at base timing which kills performance a little and should kill gas mileage some. If your sure the KS wire is plugged into the ECU then you might just have a bad KS. If you have to buy one I suggest getting one off of ebay or someone on here because they are something around $150.00 from honda.
 
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