b16a clutch/trans

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Hey guys, I have a 2000 civic Si, with a b16, gsr transmission, new flywheel, used good clutch, master & slave cylinder... i've unbolted & re did it 5x now... it'll hook up and move for a block and give out. this last time it moved about 3 ft and gave up on me. the only thing that isnt new is the throw-out bearing and fork that goes from the slave cylinder to the throwout bearing... any ideas?
explain how it gives out, does the transmission disengage, does the car stop moving, does it come to a screaching halt??
Next time it does it check to see if when you press on the gas if the rpm's go up oly or if your speedometer goes up too, if your speedometer goes up even though the car isn't moving,then I bet one of your axles is popping out.
nah... new axles, half life clutch, re-used throw out bearing but its spinning smooth, hydro clutch, its bled & all... the slave cylinder is doing its job... i installed it two days ago, drove around the block and died out, today i re-did it thinking my flywheel has been previously cut way too much and wasnt grasping the clutch enough... bought a new flywheel, bolted everthing up, re-bled the line, dropped it down, went about 3 ft. and died out on me. as if the clutch is engaging at first then something is causing it to slip... but everything is in tact & all...
also, no bad noises... only noise i hear is i'll get it to go and when it starts giving out... i can barely hear the clutch trying to engage to the flywheel.. its def. a clutch or throw out bearing issue, or that Y-looking thing that goes from the slave cylinder to the shaft to moved the throw out bearing... but neither looks in bad shape... anything i might be doing wrong, off top of mind?
Not off the top of my head, but a clutch is normally engaged, not disengaged, it takes outside action (pressing clutch pedal) to Dis-engage the clutch.
usually if anything other than the clutch itself fails than it will stay engaged.
The only exception to this is if the release valve in the clutch master cylinder isn't letting fluid flow back int othe resivoir, causing the slave cylinder to bein the "out" position, dis-engaging the clutch.
First check your clutch pedal freeplay, down where the master cylinder hooks up to the pedal there is an adjustment that can be made, if it is not adjusted correctly it can cause the clutch to remain dis-engaged. even when the pedal is "up" Try loosengin that up all the way so that the pedal is "floppy" when it's in the "up" position.

Next Check to see if the slave cylinder retracts when you let off the pedal or if it stays in the "out" position. If it stays in the "out" position then you need a new master cylinder because the release valve in the master is not working properly.
the only other thing might be that you did cut the flywheel too far and the clutch disc is now too thin, in which case you will have to get a whole new clutch kit and a new flywheel.
i have the slave cylinder moving about an inch back & forth as the master & slave cylinder are both doing their job... it'll drive for a tad and then all the sudden it feels as if the throw out bearing is getting stuck at the "disengage" or as if the clutch pedal is getting stuck, but yet the pedal is actually going back to standard position...
in other words, the clutch starts slippin and wont go back to engaging... but its a good clutch...
if the pedal is going back to the correct position then the throw out bearing is also going back to correct position, the pressure plate is what pushes the pedal back, so your throw out bearing has to be going back into position, otherwise the pedal would stay on the floor. there must be something wrong with the clutch or the pressure plate, make sure the imput chaft of the tranny is lubed as well, so that the throw out bearing and the clutch disc can slide on their parts of the shaft.
make sure the throw out fork is correctly installed into the throw out bearing, it has 2 tabs on the bearing that the 2 ends of the "y" hook onto. and then the spring on the back of the fork hooks onto the ball stud on the tranny.
Other than all of that without actually looking at it myself I have no Idea.
how did you bleed your clutch, with yourself or with two ppl.??
if the RPMs are going up and your speedo isnt im with GSR dude, you got a clutch, problem. how well do you know the source of this used clutch you bought, and how do you know its half worn??
i'm about to replace it. that way i know all angles are fulfilled. after that i'm gonna light it on fire LOL JK!! there's nothing else after that. everything is working just fine. my slave cylinder is moving back & forth & all....
the stock clutch that first came out has the pads almost completely worn out, as in a tire, its at the indicators.... how much life does it have at this point? 0%? is this what is slipping? i've never experienced the clutch slippage, its always been more of the it worked and then stopped working, never a slippage where i could drive it and the rpms would just shoot up. so thats really the symptom i was looking for... is it different on this honda from my old escort?
hey post a picure of your flywheel. i recently experienced a problem similar to this. wipe your flywheel clean and send it to me or just post it. please.
honestly i couldnt tell from those pics if it is work, i appreciate the effort though, i cant see how close the material is to the rivets that are in the holes. clean the clutch disc with brake cleaner make sure there is no oils on there of any kinda, and you said your flywheel was new so that sounds all good,

youre 100% the tranny is ok? does it shift ok or what?

sorry dude its super hard to tell whats wrong without being there and seeing what the car is actually doing!
those are the pictures of the clutch... does this justify for it not working properly? please email me at Luis.a@tmail.com

You have lots of clutch left, I would suspect it's the flywheel at this point.

From alldata for thickness new the clutch is 8.4-9.1mm it is recommended to replace it at 6mm

distance from top of pads to rivets ON BOTH SIDES to highest rivet is 1.2mm new
replace at .2mm
another thought is that the pressure plate is messed up somehow. . . like was said before, without being there it's really hard to tell.
i bought an Advanced Autoparts new clutch and put that in last night.. still nothing.

when i set it in gear i rock it back & forth to where i can determine wether the clutch is engaging or not... well its not!

NEW clutch, NEW flywheel, NEW slave cylinder. throw out bearing y-shaft is moving back & forth. it just seems as the clutch is always being pressed... what could this be?!? is there a certain procedure? i install the flywheel, the clutch right ontop (only goes one way) lift the trans up and insert the shaft, then i start putting bolts to get it all the way in, then set all the other stuff in place, insert axles, bleed the cylinder, and on the ground.

i was thinking i could "set it in gear" disconnect the shift linkage and see if i can push the trans in gear any further in. it does have a skunk2 short throw shifter.. i guess any slight bend on my shift linkage and it COULD cause me trouble, what do ya'll think?

In chronological order:
i installed my act stage2clutch it drove about two blocks and gave out after that..
added a new flywheel the next time around and act stage2 clutch drove about 4ft.
added a new OEM clutch and didnt go anywhere?!?
Just a thought, but maybe the hose going from the hard line on the frame rail to the hard line on the tranny is bad, sort of like when a brake hose goes bad and only lets brake fluid go in 1 direction, maybe that is the problem, it's only letting you press the clutch and not releasing it.
Try replacing that rubber line.
i believe the line you're talking about is the one after the one that goes from the firewall (resevoir) to the tranny side. that first segment is rubber, then the second segment is stainless line.

also, i went to a local tranny shop today and they suggested me to disconnect all the hydrolics off of it. i did that this morning and it sounds a little more louder, as if the clutch is almost there to engage but is slippin bad. i even manually put a socket in where the y-fork goes to place it further into the disengagement position. NO LUCK!!