B18B1 All Motor.

korey

Senior Member
Alright everyone, I am building an All motor 96 b18b1 motor for my 97 dx coupe. No ls/vtec or anything either. What I need to find out is if you all have any other ideas or thoughts on what i could do to this motor. Some guidlines, 1.-dont worry about budget, just throw down some ideas or thoughts and 2.-dont suggest i buy a different motor or car or go vtec, because I dont want to and wont do it. With that said here are my thought. Please add to the list (starting with bottom end, working to head):

Balanced and blueprinted crank
Z10 block girdle
Crower bilet Rods
11:1 comp. pistons (not sure on brand, how high can I go on Reg. unleaded gas?)
Total Seal piston rings
Resleeved with darton sleeves
str block gaurd
ARP Head studs
All oem gaskets throughout
street/strip port and polish
Crower or skunk valve train
Crower 403 cams
Jun or Skunk cam gears
RC injectors
Aem fuel rail
Skunk Intake mani
AEM V2 CIA

Any ideas on engine management and tranny buildups/options, please list. Sorry for the long post and thanx for all help. Sorry if I forgot anything also.
 

Celerity

Well-Known Member
The problem you'll run into with the 11:1 compression is it's daily drivability. How much gas is in your area ? What altitude are you at ? Are you prepared to slap AVGas or Cam2 in that car ?

In today's world, anything beyond 10:1 becomes a real problem in daily use. With gas prices soaring you'll find yourself doing $30 at the pump every other day. If it's a primarily track car, with some back and forth mileage, than it's gonna be great.

As far as OEM gasket sets, the headgasket isn't going to like that compression, and if you're using an aftermarket oil pan they'll include the gasket you'll need.

-> Steve
 

brian11to1

Senior Member
My friends and I were wondering hte same thing. To get the sleeves in, you have to get the block machined, then have then pressed in, the block guard has to also be pressed in. We were told 500 for sleeves to be put in, and about 180-200 for the block guard.
 

JDMilan

Senior Member
86 the block guard idea.

a decent header for your application, not sure since your running the ls head.

skunk2 IM over the ls giraffe

flywheel clutch combo

Hondata

and like C said,,,R tranny for sHoOo :)
 

korey

Senior Member
Ok, so 86 the block gaurd idea, I wasnt sure about that anyway, someone must have given some wrong info. As for the header, would an ITR 4-1 work well or even work at all? Also, will my 11:1 comp. Ratio be a problem like previously stated? And finally, any good suggestions for a good flywheel/clutch combo and is their a specific hondata program/product I should use?
 

korey

Senior Member
What about the oem gaskets, -Celerity- said that the oem gaskets arent going to hold up well with 11:1 c/r. Is this true and if so, what gaskets should I use?
 

JDMilan

Senior Member
hmm....I think the factory gaskets are actually pretty good, I always ran them.

you do have the option of upgrading
 

phunky.buddha

Admin with a big stick
Admin
VIP
Originally posted by korey@Apr 5 2004, 04:59 PM
What about the oem gaskets, -Celerity- said that the oem gaskets arent going to hold up well with 11:1 c/r. Is this true and if so, what gaskets should I use?

A factory head gasket held my 12.6:1 compression for 45k miles...
 

korey

Senior Member
Alright, I guess if there is nothing more you guys would do or change to my setup, I will start to buy and build. Thanx guys. Oh, and I will probably go with a Clutch masters Stage 2 or 3 clutch, and ACT ( i think?) 12.5 lbs flywheel, with a GSR tranny and Greddy Evo 2 exhaust. Thanks for all the help everyone.
 

korey

Senior Member
Just a quick question, which cam gears would you guys recoomend, toda or skunk2? Let me know thoughts.
 

asmallsol

Super Moderator
looking over your mod list, one thing I would change is go with the 404 cams. Everyone complains how they suck for daily driving, however, in my friends integra LS (member name StyleTEG here and on TI), the idle is not really that bad, gas millage has not really suffered, and they are still fine for around town.

The following is his dyno. The one line with the higher peak is the HP curve of a tuned, however pretty stock ITR, the other is his.



Now his trq vs the ITR's trq.



Although the ITR had higher peak numbers, his almost mild setup (only has cam gears, milled head for compression, springs and retainors, eManage, TINY exhaust for power, 3inch intake and SI tranny (however tranny does not effect Hp) at some points has over 20 more hp.


As far as your last question, :withstupid: Toda gears have the most acurate degreeing, and if they ever do slip, can only go a few degrees. If you find spoon for a cheaper price, get spoon, as toda and spoon gears are EXACTLY the same.
 

E_SolSi

Member of the 20 nut club
Moderator
VIP
those dynos are beautiful

he needs an ECU that will alow him to go to a higher RPM
those cams would walk a type R all the way to the top

very badass :thumbsup: :worthy:
 

StyleTEG

Senior Member
Hehe, I love seeing my dyno vs the ITR. Thanks for posting it up colin :) :thumbsup:

I am working on a new ECU for the redline, and fixing my ignition timming issues (which is causing the weird dips in torque).

You guys may know about this more than anyone. My idea is to run a OBD-II GSR Ecu, (P72). And use the GS-R Redline. I know I will throw several codes (vtec related, knock sensor, etc), but as long as those don't put me into limp mode I don't mind the CEL. Any clues as if this is something that woudl work or not?

As far as gas milage, I still get awesome highway gas milage. Even with the 4,400rpm at 80mph. Case in point, I drove 2.5 hours to gingerman race way, did two 20min sessions, and drove another 2.5hours back on one tank of gas. And the gas light is not on yet.

Go with the 404s. Switching to urethane motor mounts made a bigger difference at idle than these cams.
 

korey

Senior Member
So the 404's wont effect my idle to bad? Also, what header do you all recommend? Let me know any other thoughts.
 
Originally posted by Celerity@Apr 5 2004, 09:45 AM
The problem you'll run into with the 11:1 compression is it's daily drivability. How much gas is in your area ? What altitude are you at ? Are you prepared to slap AVGas or Cam2 in that car ?

In today's world, anything beyond 10:1 becomes a real problem in daily use. With gas prices soaring you'll find yourself doing $30 at the pump every other day. If it's a primarily track car, with some back and forth mileage, than it's gonna be great.

As far as OEM gasket sets, the headgasket isn't going to like that compression, and if you're using an aftermarket oil pan they'll include the gasket you'll need.

-> Steve

I'd say replacing the headgsket is spot on, while the facotry gaskets may hold they aren't made for that high compression ratio and could be problematic and cause power losses and other problems that may go unoticed until they become catastrophic. When building a motor it doesn't help to cut corners, if cost isn't an issue get the best of the best for what it is you're trying to accomplish.

ps; that dyno chart is fuckin sick, whoever's car that is, congrats on the monster, well done.
 
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