b18c1 block


I plan on fully building a gsr block and putting a fully built b16 head on it. And i was wondering what red lines would be the most effiecient and safest for this setup. By fully built i mean all motor.


Member of the 20 nut club
Originally posted by kylemarhx@Apr 7 2004, 03:56 AM
this thread sucks dude :p .


fully built block???
fully built head???
what in the hell does that mean????
ohhhh.... by fully built you mean all motor
nope.... still doesnt mean shit
if you want us to give you any kind of estimates or any insight on anything why dont you tell us what parts will be used when you "fully build" this engine

what pistons
what rods
what sleeves
what bolts
what cams
what valves
what springs
what retainers
what timing belt
what oil pump gear

tell us EVERYTHING you plan on using in this "fully built" engine and we could probly give you estimates


Ok ok sorry, i just thought you guys didn't wanna hear the full shibang. I plan on using the b16 head of my engine b16a2 and purchasing a gsr block. The plan is to build the block while i have the car then once the block is done park the car and build the head and put them together. I plan on using and doing

balance polish crank
new bearings
eagle rods
JE pistons or something of that 12.5:1
85 mm bore releeved
itr oil pump
gsr or sir water pump
gsr timing belt
skunk2 stage 2 cams
skunk2 valves retainers etc
skunk2 IM
skunk2 cam gears
port n polish
apr head bolts etc
probably run some sort vafc not sure yet
bigger injectors
upgraded fuel system

I think thats what i got so far and what do you guys think is a 85 mm bore good to much or can i go more? Sorry bout the post before hope this helps a little bit mroe.Oh and i drive a 2000 civic Sir


Member of the 20 nut club
setup looks good

for that extensive of a build i would really have to recomend a hondata for tuning
the VAFC just wont do it justice

you should be ok to rev them to wherever you need to to reach your peak HP
im going to guess and say you will make peak HP around 9K

get it put together and bring it to a dyno and have it all tuned
then just look where your peak HP is and dont go much beyond that

for instance if your peak HP is at 8700 then i would shift by 9k... there really isnt any reason to rev out much further than that
With those Con-Rods and valve springs you could rev it up to the moon. But does'nt make sense doing that if your not making any peak hp?


Ok cool thanks guys. Also bout the whole ecu tuning thing. I was in there first place gonna d0o a crvtec or lsvtec and for all motor from the articles it seems as if vafcs and such with my ecu would be good enough to tune it. Do you really think i should run a hondata? Also would it be better just to sell my motor and just buy a gsr longblock?


Member of the 20 nut club
if you already have the stuff then you might as well keep it and work with what you have

Import Builders

Senior Member
Go with some 11.8:1 IB Spec Wiseco's and Ultralite rods, and I bet you make 5-10 WHP more than with the eagle/JE combo. With less compression!

Also, don't go 85 right away, go 84.5, then if you mess up later, you can go 85. You go 85 first, then nobody makes 85.5 and some sleeves can't bore past 85 safely.

Also, there are way better options out there than Skunk 2 Valvetrain and retainers. Especially for the money.

try the Golden eagle cam gears too, better than Skunk 2, more precise.

Also, you don't need an upgraded fuel system, just like RC 310 injectors with a V-AFC or Hondata/fuel regulator.

Your stock fuel pump can make almost 400 WHP.

save your money on the cams, and get Crower Stage 3's instead.

And if you followed my advice, and have an SMSP header, you can make up to 230 WHP on it.

I got the recipe for good power down to a science. Starts with the pistons, ends with the header.



Cool but i am still looking at a pretty much daily driver i don't wanna get to crazy plus is a 85 mm bore on a b18 not max can't i go more if something does fuck up.