Bad booster? Bad calipers?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ichigo1174
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 12
  • Views Views 3K

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

Ichigo1174

Active Member
VIP
I have a 1988 CRX SI,

The problems
1: at first it was really though compared to the 94 Civic LX I drove, but it shouldn't be hard. (I'm thinking brake booster)
2: I recently had to change the rear wheel bearings and in the past I used a C-clamp to push the piston back in the caliper to put it back on the rotor with the pads. Only the piston would go back inside the caliper at all! (I'm thinking maybe the calipers are going bad? or is this a brake booster issue?)
3: I know my pads need to be changed because they started squeeling, but they shouldn't always be squeeling even if I'm not even touching the brake pedal. Could this be a issue with the calipers? Slightly warped rotors? (they look fine and when i press the brake they don't shake much but it seems like the brakes squeel just slightly louder at certain points of rotation. (I'm not too sure)

I'm not sure if it is the Brake booster, calipers, or what?
My car has slotted rotors in the front ( I was told they were brembo)
Where can I purchase a set? Can anyone help me? :confused:
 
well it could be a calipers! but did you try bleeding the brake lines? because that can cause them to stick! and sometimes if you don't use enough brake grease on the pads that can make them squeak!! also check your master brake cyl.
 
if i remember right, honda brake calipers ar screw type, meaning you need to buy the specific tool to twist them in while compressing them... calipers are prob fine dude...
 
Yeah your right a lot of hondas do!!!! So it could be that! im thanking dirty fluid or bad caliper best to check them all befor buying a caliper
 
just make sure its a bad caliper. they sometimes get stuck, and wont twist. if you have access to a decent pair of vise grips, you can grab one of the slots and try and turn it that way. itry and avoid replacing them to save customers money, just make sure to replace any torn boots/seals while you have it off, you can usually get replacement one from autozone for like 5 bucks a side.
 
Okay so question, you mean to tell me that they will screw outward to stop the vehicle? On the civic I had the front ones pushed straight in... but then again that was a 94. Okay, I'll try to screw them when I replace the pads.
I take it they should screw clock wise (when looking at it).
 
yea, screwing them clockwise will put them in, and the screw motion is what works your parking brake, the fronts are push in, because there is no handbrake assembly to operate. on some cars, the rear calipers will also be push in type, but you will notice that they have a separate drum type shoe on the inside of the rotor, that operates the handbrake.
 
before i forget, you will have to apply pressure while screwing them in , otherwise they will just turn... it sucks doing it this way without the "tool" designed to do it the riht way. take a trip down to autozone and rent one, it will be MUCH easier!! good luck!
 
Yes, you need this tool.

A-CALIPER%20TOOL%20-%20366x399.jpg


Put that on a 3/8" drive ratchet and turn it clockwise while pushing it in.
 
well thats pretty damn interesting

ive never seen that cube style one

ProductImage.ashx
 
I used one but it a screw kind, sort of like a C clamp. Anyways i thought the 88 CRX Si's came with rear discs. I had to get a set of pads for the rear and the only thing that fits exactly right were the rear pads for a 88 Honda prelude. So I guess my car had a rear disc swap? I never questioned the markings (where it look like someone bought the rear arms and stuff from a junk yard lol). Also, I noticed a lot of different bushings are getting really cracked, including the one in that holds the hub assembly. The joint towards the front is almost like completely torn apart, can I replace just the join or do I have to replace the whole arm.?
 
the bushings or joints as you call them can be replaced. removal is a bitch if you dont have a press... and instead of replacing oem, why not go with polyeurethane bushings, like from prothane.
 
the bushings or joints as you call them can be replaced. removal is a bitch if you dont have a press... and instead of replacing oem, why not go with polyurethane bushings, like from prothane.

Where would I get these polyurethane bushings?
I know I'd like to have like one of those energy suspension bushing kits (but I'm not sure if it would have that exact bushing I'm talking about.
 
Back
Top