best ecu for a b16a

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

poloboy4

New Member
ok well i was wondering something about my car what is the best ecu to run with a jdm b16a right now my car will red line around 8600-8800 i have a p2t ecu not sure if i could have a better one that will help me accelerate faster because its not as fast as some other si's i have seen.
 
Not enough information given. Different ECU's work better for different set ups. If you have basic internals and a few bolt on's.....I am certain that the power band is flat or diving down at 8600 rpm's.....not making power...actually hurting a 1/4 mile time b/c you are wasting time at horsepower that is flat or decreasing. If you don't have different head/cams/injectors/throttle body or turbo....you would most likely be wasting any money if you were to get another ECU. A different ECU will not give a basic set up anything worth doing.

If you can rev that high....it must be a mod'ed ECU b/c my P30 only revs to 8100 before rev limiter comes on. So you could have a bad set up (robbing power) if you have basic mod's. Air/Fuel ratios could also be way off. You're best ECU for a bsic mod'ed set up is a STOCK P30 or in your case (OBD2)...the B16A2 P2T ECU
 
well i dont know what else is done to the car i was told it had a built head that cost them 1100 but i have my doubts the motor has full cat back exhaust aem intake dc headers and thats about as much as i can see done to it... i just dont understand why another si stock will take off on me right away... well its a 99 dx with a b16a2..
 
find out if you do or don't have a built head. if you don't, build it and get a p72 off a gsr.. that way you get more power at high rpms
 
If I was you....and wanted to know whats up....I would start taking stuff apart or take it somewhere so they can check. Sounds liek something is wrong if another B16 in the same shell walked all over you. well...its a DX but its not that much lighter...not enough to take a walk on you.
 
You can also do a leak down test...and check compression (first) this could also be a problem
 
do u know what my compression should be around? what range? so i can get this checked first thanks
 
ok so now im down to this check it out dose it look like a built head? to me it dose not seems like one so let me know what u can see and find out? thanks
 

Attachments

  • oscar i phone 7-7-09 013.JPG
    oscar i phone 7-7-09 013.JPG
    274.5 KB · Views: 1,030
  • oscar i phone 7-7-09 017.JPG
    oscar i phone 7-7-09 017.JPG
    213.5 KB · Views: 1,168
  • oscar i phone 7-7-09 020.JPG
    oscar i phone 7-7-09 020.JPG
    323.7 KB · Views: 2,485
  • oscar i phone 7-7-09 015.JPG
    oscar i phone 7-7-09 015.JPG
    244.5 KB · Views: 977
The compression reading #'s are up to debate in my opinion. Some say stupid #'s (yes I said it) like 210 across the board. And many others think these guys who swear by some 200 number aren't doing the test right. I have always been told somewhere in the 180 range is good.

Never the less...the important thing is that they're somewhat up towards 200 and that all cylinder compression #'s are within 5-10% of each other.

So 182-180-184-182 would be perfectly nice. Now you have this mystery 'built' head so #'s could be different but the point of a compression test is to see if they're all around each other's compression #'s....in sync and shit lol So do it and let us know the numbers. Its best to disable the fuel and leave the spark plugs in the cylinders your not checking at the time. And make sure the car is as close to running temp as humanly possible (close cuz its hot shit to work on). You can unhook the ECU to disable the fuel then just give it 10 seconds of crank for each cylinder...write the # down and go to the next
 
OK thanks man i took off the valve cover but i still unable to tell if the springs are changed or anything take a look at the pics i posted above i was told in yv-tech to check the compression by 3 cranks :S but i never remembered the range it should have been on.
 
Can't tell whats up with that head by pictures you posted. You need to take the cams out and
check them out. I might be able to tell what cam it is if you send me pictures of the end of the
cams but if I cant...hopefully someone here will be able to tell. If you don't feel comfortable with
doing the work...either leave it be or take it to a shop that can tell you whats up.

Just do compression test and tell us the results.
 
If the compression test turns out good, how is your clutch, you can loose a lot of time during accelearation if your clutch is slipping. either way good luck, neither one of these fixes will be cheap or easy.
 
Ya true clutch is good only slips when I burn out alot while racing still haven't checked compression no time yet
 
Back
Top