Building D16

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

Drenni

Senior Member
Just wondering what should be the next step in building the engine??? It's got DC Header, 2 1/4 exhausts, apex pipe, skunk2 cam gear, UN under pulley, AEM V2, EX intake maniflod and AEM fuel regulator. It does pretty good on the street and on the track B). But what should be the next step, I have'nt taking the car to the DYNO yet so what should be next com'on guys let me know :( .
 

Drenni

Senior Member
That's all anything else guys, I'm taking it to the DYNO on Friday.
 

illegal_crx

Junior Member
koo
i got a cute setup too :ph34r:

:sleep: i got a d16y8 vtec from japan it has a
aem cold air intake, dc heaters, ngk spark plugs, and wires, 2 1/2 pipeing after market muffler advance timing, high flow catalitic and b&m short shifter

what you should get is what i want to get
1 stage 4 or 3 clutch
2 holley's gas pump
3 apex- vtec and fuel controller
4 aluminum radiator
5 b&m oil cooler
6 Jets computer chip
7 tornato
8 crane cams ignition
9 cam gears
 

phunky.buddha

Mad scientist
Moderator
VIP
Originally posted by illegal_crx@Apr 8 2003, 11:31 PM
koo
i got a cute setup too :ph34r:

:sleep: i got a d16y8 vtec from japan it has a
aem cold air intake, dc heaters, ngk spark plugs, and wires, 2 1/2 pipeing after market muffler advance timing, high flow catalitic and b&m short shifter

what you should get is what i want to get
1 stage 4 or 3 clutch
2 holley's gas pump
3 apex- vtec and fuel controller
4 aluminum radiator
5 b&m oil cooler
6 Jets computer chip
7 tornato
8 crane cams ignition
9 cam gears

1. Stages on a clutch only matter if the manufacturer makes different stages... they mean nothing on their own.
2. You don't really need a larger gas pump for an all-motor D series
3. VAFC is good
4. Aluminum radiator is overkill for that engine... waste of cash there
5. Same there on the oil cooler
6. No need for a chip if you're getting a VAFC
7. Tornado = waste of money, it's a scam part
8. You can only fit one cam in a SOHC engine, and you don't need to upgrade the ignition for your 0hp in upgrades listed here so far
9. You can only fit one cam gear on a SOHC engine that only has one cam...

Welcome to HondaSwap, by the way. Read and learn. :)
 

Drenni

Senior Member
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: That was a little tooo much :worthy: , what do you think should be the next step :( . I would like to get down to the low 15's I'm high 15's now <_< .

Thanks
 

pills_PMD

New Member
VIP
i would look into fuel manangement if you are going to dyno.

get a vafc or some other form of fuel controller and dyno tune it w/ a wideband.

i gained like 12 whp just by tuning.
 

illegal_crx

Junior Member
:blink: dam you made me look stubid
O well i learned something :D

but if you get a better radiator and a oil coolor the engine will run a lot coolor right? yes
so it will be more reliable and it will create more horsepower so why do you say that, those two parts are over kill?

as for the stage 3 or 4 clutch, i meant get any brand but it better make a stage 3 or 4 clutch

also what do you think he and i should get to create more horsepower? :ph34r:
 

sohcslammer

Senior Member
:p You should do what I'm doing. Admit defeat and buy a b-series. You can never make a d-series as fast as you want it (as fast as I want at least) I'm running a D16z w/ aem cold air, DC 4-1, DC cat back, spoon chip, aem CAM gear (yes, there IS only one :p ) DC short shifter, centerforce clutch and it's still slow as shit. (Just about keeps up with my buddy's 4 door gsr w I/E) Even if I turbo this setup and add cams and pistons I'm still better off swapping in a b18c1 with some bolt ons. <_< Fuck this sohc shit.
 

K2e2vin

Senior Member
yeah if you have the money go for a b-series(b16a or b18c). but your best bet for more power for your d is larger bore, higher comp. pistons, and port and polish.

no chips dont make you rev higher, tuning and the absence of a rev limiter makes you rev higher. you dont always benefit from revving higher anyway.

an d15 and d16 doesnt get very hot so you wouldnt need an aluminum radiator, plus you cant run "cooler" if you're already running it as cold as it can, which is ambient(spl?) temperature.

different manufacturers make different torque range for the same stages of other brands. eg. brand a; stage 3=220lbs torque, brand b; stage 3= 300lbs
 

Drenni

Senior Member
:huh: :huh: Well let me tell you a little story my brother has a H/B Civic 96 with a EX tranny and some other minor modifications (mini-me) and is running in the very low 15's (15.2sec) to be exact, I don't think that's bad at all but I have seen D engine's hit the 14 sec N/A :worthy: :worthy: believe me it's kind oh hard to get a B series down here in PR ($$$$) they want an arm and a leg for the engines.... :angry: .
 
Top