Can Anyone Help With My Hesitation Problem

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Junior Member
the swap was done a year ago not verey many miles on the car since it was done
last aug. put a msd system in ran great for 3 months then started to get bad hesitation around the 3000 range, car sat for a month or so while i tried to find the problem
every one told me that msd aren't the best way to go
and was told to stay with stock
changed it back to stock thinking it was the fix but no good , then put back my msd
brought the car to the guy that did my swap he said it was the seal between the cap and the distributor housing said he fixed it ran good for two days then it went back to the same problem i had before
asked around a couple of guys told me it sounds like a bad distributor
searched high and low and finally found one @
looked great shinny and new put it in went for a test drive sure enough hesitation was still there
please if anyone has any idea's plaese let me know


Junior Member
it shows a o2 code but i haven't put the second sensor in since i did the swap
and i haven't checked fuel system yet plan on changing the filter and the pump this weekend


Senior Member
I had the same problem with my stock D16y7. I went crazy replacing all types of things and it turned out to be my spark plugs. I'm not sure if you checked these cause you didn't mention it, but try that. Oh yeah and the lack of secondary O2 sensor should not be a problem; you'll get a CEL, but the ECU won't alter fuel or timing or anything.


Senior Member
change the o2 sensor that's in and add the secondary then take out the plugs and clean them and put them back in. If that does not fix the problem then take out the MSD unit and run the car stock to see if the hestation disappers if not leave the MSD out and do a full tune up, if that takes care of the problem then you can put the MSD box back in.


Senior Member
look more towards your fuel filter first, than do a full out tuneup . arching wires are more than your problem if theyre bad. possibility . TIMING ??????
check the filter on the vtec solinoid, the spoon valve or whatever you want to call it. You can either spray it with brake cleaner but be sure to replace it cause the cleaner will eat the seal. There only like $16 bucks at honda. But does this only happen when you hit vtec?


Junior Member
MY 90 teg had the same prob , and it was the distributor , i replaced the WHOLE assembly and wire , it worked fine after that, it was about the 2900- 3100 range it would cut out or bog down, almost like the rev limiter was kicking in,


Junior Member
well i tried every thing
replaced the filter ,plug wires only have about 300 miles on them
new plugs new distributor also did a b&m fuel pressure modifier with the fuel gauge bought a new set a stock wires and switched that too it now bogs down all the time
i just can't figure it out


Junior Member
oh yhea checked timming put to stock settings

any body know what the pressure should be set at
i have a aem cold air intake 4to1 dc sports header
2 1/4 inch pipe no cat with a tanabe muffler


Senior Member
Read this:
Its something everyone running a PWO or PR3 ECU(and maybe all 2 O2 sensor Systems) needs to know. The short story is this. Each sensor is sending info to the ECU from 2 cylinders and the ECU is making mixture corrections based on that info. When only using one sensor, even if both wires are tied to the single sensor, the ECU is not getting the correct feedback while in closed loop. If the motor runs good at wide open throttle but badley at part throttle and idle this is your problem.