skillz2k5
Senior Member
So I went and got the gauge set from orielly's today and checked my compression. I did it three ways because I was getting funky readings the first two times.
The first time I checked it was with all the plugs in except the cylinder I was checking compression on (obviously) and with the fi/em fuse still in. The results were::
D
120
120
130
120
T
The second time I checked all the plugs were in but with the fi/em fuse pulled. The results were:
D
170
170
180
170
T
The third time was with plugs out and fuse out. Also I cranked the car untill the needle on the gauge stopped building (I was figuring this was the correct way to go about it). The results were:
D
215
215
220
215
T
Does the third method/numbers seem correct for a b series vtec motor?? Jdm B16 to be exact. Also I have heard that differences in the numbers isn't a good sign. What would cause a slight change from cylinder to cylinder. Also the D signafies dizzy side and T signafies timing belt side... for those that have no common sense
The first time I checked it was with all the plugs in except the cylinder I was checking compression on (obviously) and with the fi/em fuse still in. The results were::
D
120
120
130
120
T
The second time I checked all the plugs were in but with the fi/em fuse pulled. The results were:
D
170
170
180
170
T
The third time was with plugs out and fuse out. Also I cranked the car untill the needle on the gauge stopped building (I was figuring this was the correct way to go about it). The results were:
D
215
215
220
215
T
Does the third method/numbers seem correct for a b series vtec motor?? Jdm B16 to be exact. Also I have heard that differences in the numbers isn't a good sign. What would cause a slight change from cylinder to cylinder. Also the D signafies dizzy side and T signafies timing belt side... for those that have no common sense