Cooling system

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So i replaced my alternator finally, and I have new hoses, thermometer, and radiator. I added a bunch of coolant to my car and drove it yesterday. No problems at all. drove for like 30 minutes. So today i drove some more, went to autozone then to home then to autozone then to work. after autozone the second time my car started to overheat and then i got scurred so i blasted my heat...
after all this it started to cool down a bit but it was acting real erradic.. staying in a good range though. So umm... air bubble or what?!?!?!
 
How's your water pump? I would try draining and filling your coolant and see if that doesn't fix the problem, maybe a blockage somewhere in the pipes.

BTW: Fix your sig now that you got your alternator fixed :D
 
Originally posted by Pewble@Jul 13 2005, 11:29 AM
So i replaced my alternator finally, and I have new hoses, thermometer, and radiator. I added a bunch of coolant to my car and drove it yesterday. No problems at all. drove for like 30 minutes. So today i drove some more, went to autozone then to home then to autozone then to work. after autozone the second time my car started to overheat and then i got scurred so i blasted my heat...
after all this it started to cool down a bit but it was acting real erradic.. staying in a good range though. So umm... air bubble or what?!?!?!
[post=525365]Quoted post[/post]​



I can almost bet that it is air bubbles. with the car at cold temps, take the raditor cap off, and then start the car. Let it run for as long as it takes to get the lower hose to fill with HOT coolant (this means that the thermostat has opened and coolant is curculating in the system) add coolant when nessicary, and let it run for another 5 or so minutes. It may take all the way up to an hour. Keep an eye on your tempature gauge. Make sure that the heater control is all the way to the heat side, but you don't need to have the fan on.
 
alright yea i did that last night but i still think its air bubbles. maybe i should run it longer ??? weird stuff...
 
Originally posted by Pewble@Jul 13 2005, 11:12 AM
alright yea i did that last night but i still think its air bubbles. maybe i should run it longer ??? weird stuff...
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Bleed it, use the bleeder screw near the thermostat, with the car off and the rad. cap off, fill till all bubbles are gone from the bleeder screw. if u need any more help let me know.
 
thanks!

what about the bleeder screw on the motor? and squeezing the top hose to get air out? i didnt know there was a bleeder screw on the thermostat..
 
Goodbye cruel world, I guess my car dosent want to work for me at all anymore and its just not worth it anymore. I can drive it i guess but i get to put the heat on ALL THE WAY HIGH. dangit beavis, i even went to autozone and guy sold me that sensor that you connect to your heat gauge that would correct possible "false" readings... I havent installed that one yet... coolant temp gauge...?? anyone have success with that ? It acts fine even when the fan goes on.. but then i drive it for 20 minutes and then the damn thing decides to say its hot. Well i guess my VSS is the same shit... it just DECIDES when its going to work. WTF. I am sick of driving in a HOT CAR but i think im MORE SICK of driving with NO CAR.. I should put a layer of sheet ice on my seat before i drive it i think thats easier
 
is there any white looking stuff in your coolant? What about on your dipstick or your oil fill cap. If so, you have a bad headgasket.

as mentioned, it could be your thermostat. Did you buy an OEM one. I bought an autozone one and the quality wasn't the same, so I went to honda and bought one for 10. Much better quality. If your thermostat is stuck closed, then it will cause coolant to never ciruclate until you put your heat on, and now instead of a huge radiator, you have a tiny heater core as a radiator. I had a thermostat that had the opposite problems as it was stuck open, and that thing would never heat up.
 
Dumb question, but you did call your thermostat a thermometer.. sooo...

Are you sure you got it in there right? not backwards?

Also, from now on, I want you to say "I went from work to the HONDA DEALERSHIP to home and back to the HONDA DEALERSHIP...." etc, etc...

Auto Zone parts are GARBAGE... a waste of money and time.
 
Originally posted by Pewble@Jul 14 2005, 07:09 PM
mugen thermos are also mad expensive. and im not sure those are made for 95 dx engines..
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well actually thermostats are univeral on honda's as I am running the same thermostat in my b18c1 as I did in my d16z6. However, a mugen thermostat isn't needed and will actually hurt your performance unless your car is a diehard track queen. A mugen thermostat is basicly a honda thermostat that opens sooner, making your's normal operating temp alot lower. This is fine for road racers as 6-8k rpms for 2-3 hours straight does a number on an engine, and many cars that do fine daily driving may suffer cooling problems. A mugen thermostat will open sooner stating the cooling process sooner but since the engine is producing so much heat, the coolant temp is around the same as your daily driver operating temp. However, for your normal daily driver, this will cause you to run much cooler then normal op temp, causing you to run richer, get worse gas millage, and have less performance.

For turbo engines going to a lower tempature thermostat can be worth your while if your having heating problems, but your stock or realtivly stock engine, its worthless.
 
yea so i installed an OEM thermo tonight and drove for like 40 minutes. I burned some jetta with altezzas at like 110 mph.... then i drove some more and then hit this other freeway super fast from the on ramp just to see what the intake did for my car then it started to overheat again. maybe it overheats when i push it.... Imma try to drive normal from now on until i get the LS swap i want... ( i want to build that LS Monster... ) anyways.... I hope it runs ok until then!!!!
 
I doubt he's running lean, probably just needs a good coolant system flush, there are probably blockages, either in the block(probably not though) or in the radiator(more likely), Go to a radiator shop and have them clean out the radiator, or get a new one, whatever is cheaper, then refill, bleed, and go. I'd also throw the thermostat you have in a pot of hot water and see if it opens just before the water boils. It should be fully open by boiling point at least. I've gotten duds from the honda dealership too, so always check em. I am betting on a clog in your radiator.

Edit, just read you bought a new radiator. Take it back, and demand a new one.
 
seems like a good radiator. and thermo. I think i could be running lean since i only have an intake. hmmmm should i add exhaust to even the mix up
 
Originally posted by Pewble@Jul 15 2005, 11:01 AM
seems like a good radiator. and thermo. I think i could be running lean since i only have an intake. hmmmm should i add exhaust to even the mix up
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reset the ecu, that should help you if you are running lean from the intake.
 
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