Cracked sleeves... Re-sleeve?

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power hungry
Bad news... i decided to test out my setup one good time before turning the boost up, and it did not end well. was doing a 3rd-5th gear pull to make sure everything was ok and the engine blew. i honestly dont know why it happened but i feel like the wastegate may have stuck. it pulled ridiculously hard in 4th and 5th and i honestly was not able to look at the boost gauge.

pulled the head off this morning and i find that all the sleeves are cracked. no other apparent damage. the headgasket, head, valves, pistons all look perfect. so now im not exactly sure what i want to do next. should i have this block sleeved? if so, any suggestions? ill be doing some research in the meantime, just never really looked into sleeving a block and was looking for advice.


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Well-Known Member
Holy bat shit Robin....That sucks man. hope it can be fixed without getting another block...


The Warden
get another tuner.

and meth injection. you were not making enough power to blow the sleeves THAT BAD on stock b20. even though people think b20 sleeves are made of glass.


Senior Member
Darton or GE sleeves? I've honestly never heard of any bad aftermarket sleeves.


Golden EG
Sleeve it!, run more boost! haha

But damn that sucks to hear :(

potential upcoming build thread on new block >.> ?


power hungry
well it was stock sleeves bored to 84.5mm so they were pretty damn thin. i think i overboosted, i was just running on straight wastegate, no controller.

right now im debating on re sleeveing this block with something nice, or picking up this used GE sleeved b16a block from another local tuner. it has a stroker crank so its 1.8l and it has held 40+ psi for a few track runs.

hoping to have my car back in action within a month.
did the person with the b16a block get something better. whats the reason there selling it. is something wrong with it.


if the b16 block has been tracked, id probably just stay away from it..
resleeving is going to cost you 1k+
its ~$600 for the local machine shop here to install them, theres a lot of work involved.


power hungry
the b16a block was a friend of mines ran it for a while at 5psi, then parted out the whole car. the longblock ended up at the this tuners shop, where he has multiple engines, blocks, heads, etc just sitting around. there is a race coming up this and he had a problem with the motor in his race car, so he is using this one. so it has a few runs at the test and tune, and then will have a few runs this weekend. went 147mph with it at the test and tune.

if i decide to get it we will compression test it while its still running. then pull the motor and pull the head off since i just need the bottom end.

im keeping my options open.


power hungry
now considering another option... i can get a bare LS block for very very cheap. i could use my crank and rods in it. leaving me to just buy pistons, rings, and a new headgasket. should be safe to 350whp on 93 octane, and more on race gas... so i have been told. hmm...


Member of the 20 nut club
or you could stop dicking around and sleeve the block you have then you wont have to worry about this again



Boosted ls/vtec ohh yeah!
I recently cracked a sleeve on my boosted ls/vtec. Going to have bensons sleeve a block for me here shortly. It costs only $975 through laskey racing with all final machine work included. Its a hell of a deal and worth the piece of mind. I wont build any more forced induction setups on factory blocks. Not worth the risk in the long run, in my opinion, especially when you have already made the investment for rods and pistons. Heres a link to laskey and a little about benson blocks. Laskey Racing Online Store