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Hi I am new to the board. I have a question to whoever can help me. I have a chance to get a cr-v block sleeved by jg engine dynamics for $900 with eagle rods from my friend. Would the block be safe for daily driveability and be reliable? What type of pistons are the best for the crvtec? I would like to run with either 10.1 or 11.5 compression. I have a gs-r head with itr cams, sk2 manifold,& type-r tranny. What else am I missing to have it run perfect. Can I use anything from my gs-r block for the b20?


Welcome to Hondaswap!

Yes, it'll be daily driveable. That's a pretty good deal. Does it include the price of the block? You might want to just resleeve your GSR block to 2.0L if it doesn't.

Pistons- are you boosting? What octane gas is available to you? How are you tuning? I run the Endyn/Wiseco Rollerwaves in my engine, and I've been really happy with them.

Manifold- you mean Skunk2 and not S2000 right? Just checking.

The crank girdle pieces from the GSR block can be machined to fit your B20 block, but you'll also need the oil pan, windage tray, and oil pickup. It's a nice piece of insurance to add on to the bottom of your block, to make the crank more stable at higher revs. I ran to 8500rpm all the time without one though, and I didn't have any problems.
It is a cr-v bottom end. I have the skunk2 manifold. Where can I get the wiseco pistons from? Anything else that will help out the engine life? What kind of oil to break the pistons in and how often do I change the oil? What kins of hp gains would I see with that setup? My gs-r now puts 168hp@ the wheels and 121 lb. ft trq. Not that those numbers mean anything?


Crvtec eh?
I used regular motor oil and changed it 5 times during the first 1000 miles.
My tranny gave up under the power though, make sure you get yours built to the max. (mines getting fixed)
I am running mobil 1 now but I will soon be running royal purple or amsoil sythetic oil.
OMG I had to upgrade to stand-alone fuel management (laptop) to attain the highest HP from my engine.
You gotta know before you embark on all motor b20 vtec- IT ISN'T CHEAP!!! (if you want it done right.)
Hey cal- you got ur crvtec back running?

When u spank a new GSR ricer, it just makes u feel great. B)

lots of noobs looking for info in crvtec, and when the hood pops, everyone just goes whoah.......
Use the GSR head, but you probobly already thought of that. Ive heard good things about endyn rollerwave pistons I dont know if they come in that compression though. is a good site for CRVTEC stuff. The site administrator is putting around 230 to the floor in his NA B20. There are also a coulple of B20 turbos on there, no dyno sheets yet though.

Call Intercrew to get the pistons, the number is in my signature. They're here in Dallas, along with Endyn who makes/modifies the Rollerwaves. Oil- use regular 10w30 for the first 1000 or 2000 miles, change it often early on. Switch to synthetic after that. Power? Who knows- every custom engine build has a custom power output.



I'm still waiting on the block to come back from the machine shop. They must have some long queue time or something. I'm not pressed for time though- not this time. I just miss my car.


What kind of power were you putting down to the ground to smoke your transmission? Whichi transmission was it? What inside it broke? I didn't have any problems with mine over 45k miles except for nuking the 3rd gear synchro. What are you doing to build it up for more power?

Canuck 93 Civic Si-

I don't agree with everything he says... but it's still got good info on it.
How much money will it cost? I already have the head and I am getting the block, what else costs money I know the install cost's money? What is the expansive part?


CRVTEC seems like the way to go these days. I'll be coming across some money soon, so I'll be able to get mine fully built and hopefully i'll be racing circle track come summer time. The newest Sport Compact Car features 3 b20 civics and a GSR civic. Three of them (two b20vtec's and the GSR) are NA and run in the twelves while a turbo'd b20 runs low 13's. just letting you know that you should check it out.
sorry about double posting and asking is someone elses thread :worthy:
neway It's interesting that the turbo is a sec. slower. Ill have the opportunity to blow the B20 motor, what's better b20Vtec or b20 turbo (bullet proofing already considered)?
what blew up?
The thrust bearing on the input shaft, the bushing gave out.
LS tranny with quaif LSD (geared).

I am running the b20Z/B18C5 setup I asked about with lots of goodies.
MSD ig, dist., blaster coil.
Nology wires (built-in cap to saturate ionization of spark)
stand alone air/fuel management (laptop adjustable)
ITR cams, AEM cam pulleys
AEM, fuel rail, pressure reg. and filter
Chipped OBD1
NOS high pressure fuel pump
Intake, exhaust (3" stainless), hi flow cat (2.7"), headers
lightened flywheel, Aluminum underdrive pulley
knife-edged and balanced crank
and other stuff..... (funny gas just in case)

I am having my car fully tuned soon, Dyno tested.
I will post #'s afterwards.
will you be using the gsr tranny and head?
does it have LSD (you'll need it)
An efficient radiator will help longevity along with an oil cooler.
you should think of every possible part you need that you dont already have and make a generous approximation.
thats about 6,000 for me. but i need tranny, wiring, etc. Things you alredy have in your car but i dont.
The CRVTEC engine is unique and will have to be treated as special.
If u use a GSR or TYPE-R head and try to use anything but an OBD1 you will experience a power loss from 3-4K RPM.
However this conversion has other needs.
Bigger injectors, a real fuel management system, big fuel pump, fuel rail, regulator (as listed above)
The engine craves gas, u will have to feed it.
The stock ignition system is adaquate but u will want more stability across the RPM band, so MSD IG, coil and dist cap.

ummm, how much money do u have?

The costs change from place to place- call your local engine builder and ask. There's no one thing that really costs a lot of money... it just all adds up.


There is no "better" for the B20/VTEC in terms of turbo or all-motor... for highest peak power, definitely turbo. I could've built a wicked turbo B20/VTEC for not much more than I'm spending on my all-motor setup and made twice as much power, but I wanted to go all-motor to run on the track. What's better for you?


What are you basing the 3-4k power loss on? There is no Type-R outside of OBD2. :)
there's no restrictions on OBD1.
OBD2 has restrictions on everything.
Originally posted by thetoymaker@Feb 25 2003, 11:50 PM
there's no restrictions on OBD1.
OBD2 has restrictions on everything.

True..... to an extent of course- but what I mean is, do you have proof that the 3-4k range will suffer? I want to see dyno charts, or at least know that dyno charts are where you saw it happen, and that maybe you watched a few on the dyno that didn't look right.
It happened on my car (crvtec), and one of my friends runing a GSR swap, the solution that he found to this weird loss of power in the 3-4K rpm range was to use either an OBD1 ECU and/or a stand-alone engine management system.
Why, what do you think caused this problem?
Any futher insight into the problem would be appreciated.
I don't have any idea what caused the problem- I'm just curious about it since I've never tuned an OBD2 B20/VTEC.
What pistons are best to use? The block is bored 84.5mm. Is the block still good to drive on everyday at that bore with sleeves?