Damn Crx

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okay... i stripped the engine, the heads off, all the hoses, alternator, etc... (by the way i'm trying to pull the goddamn stock engine out of my 90 crx si) all i got left in the is the block and the tranny. so to take them out, i gotta drop the axles right. but i cant get that damn bolt off that holds the axles in the rotor. do you guys know which one i mean. i swear to god its impossible. i tryed to use a breaker bar, and a thick steel bar to stick in between the lug bolts, but the f*ckin bar just bends like nothing. are these bolts reverse thread? i mean, all i can think of know is to slap a impact wrench on there. anyone else got any ideas? thanks :worthy:
 
First why did you take your motor apart to pull it out?On to your question,when I took mine off they were supposed to be torqued to 132lbs or something like that,anyway I weigh 200+ pounds and was jumping on the breaker bar and my car was just scooting forward.Finally my buddy had me push on the front of the car while he laid across the hood and pulled (drivers side).It came loose the point is they are a bitch.Did you unbend the lock on the bolt?Also have someone sit in your car and hold the brakes.
 
I took the motor apart to completely rebuild the thing. the head needs needs massive lovin and all the hoses were spongy, plus i'm new to all this stuff so i'm tryin to learn a lil by rippin the whole thing apart. but to the point, i did unbend the lock on the bolt, and i already to the calipers and brakes off (maybe i should put them back on), so i just had a friend stand on the other bar while i was trying to loosen that lil f*cker up. it aint workin. :angry:
 
Originally posted by creepinRex@Jan 29 2003, 02:31 PM
i already to the calipers and brakes off (maybe i should put them back on), so i just had a friend stand on the other bar while i was trying to loosen that lil f*cker up. it aint workin. :angry:

So your cars off the ground with no tires rims,right?But the rims on and put it back on the ground.
 
i had to take out the whole suspension and undo the tierods because of the same problem, i had to get an alignment but it worked.
 
i dont know y every one has a prob with those things. take a screwdriver stick it in the rotor air slots it will hit the caliper and stop the rotor from turning then wrench on it counter clockwise. u dont even have to take the dimple out of the nut
 
farmer jason is right. i just changed my rear brakes last weekend and its pretty easy when u know the right way.well good luck.
 
okay listen up real quick... i took off the calipers, its just the rotor chillin. nothing works, i greased the F*cker up, too a thick ass gorilla (crow) bar, jammed it in between the lug bolts so spinnage wont happen, the stuck the breaker bar on the damn bolt, then got a 5 foot extension rod so i can get some leverage. after all that shit, what happened???? the breaker bar snapped. not alot of options left. remember, the engines completely ripped apart, so i cant drive it anywhere. a guy who works at the steel mill told me to heat the nut till its literally red, then torque it off. if that dont work, i dont know what too do..... shits really pissin me off......
 
Heating it will work (well,should work).You don't have to go till it is red but pretty close.


Remeber next time that loosening the hub bolts is one of the first things you do.
 
ya just cant help some people. ya tell them the best way to do something and they dont listen. i thought thats y you guys posted on here in the first place for help. put your calipers back on its not that hard then do it like i said before it dosent get any easier.
 
My problem with the advice given is that sometimes those bolts are on so tight,that like I said my car was scooting forward.Now do you think that holding a screwdriver between the slots is going to be the best way,no the way the manual tells you to is.It wasn't written by shadetree mechanics,it was written by automotive proffesionals.First off it is a saftey issue,if the cars is on jack stands and you start yanking the thing forward,do you think that those are going to hold,NO.Also you run the risk of screwing up your calipers.Do it right the first time.
 
i did like the manual said, it was joke i had one guy standing on a breaker bar and a crow bar in between the wheel studs and the ground. still didnt break loose.
 
Like I said above,I weigh in at a hair over two hundred pounds,and I was bouncing on the cheater pipe to.My friend laid over the hood and pulled and I push the car backwards.Sometimes you just have to try that much harder to do tihngs right and not break your stuff.
 
i used a big as long fence pipe on my breaker bar and it came off fine with some one on the brakes and i have done it on like 5 or 6 diff cars as for the axles to pull out i never f with the brakes i just pop both ball joints in the knuckels and the whole knuckle just swings out making it easier,to pull out ball joints u need a ball joint spliter, and then pull out the axles out of the tran and dont forget to drian the trany b4 u pull them out
 
farmer jason needs to go milk some cows. it aint that easy, i just snapped a 1/2 inch breaker bar trying to take those damn things off, some guy down the steel mill told me to torch the son of a bitch, and hope for some expansion. if that dont work i think i might just take a hack-saw to the axle a buy some new ones then. who knows?
 
Originally posted by creepinRex@Jan 30 2003, 04:35 PM
farmer jason needs to go milk some cows. it aint that easy, i just snapped a 1/2 inch breaker bar trying to take those damn things off, some guy down the steel mill told me to torch the son of a bitch, and hope for some expansion. if that dont work i think i might just take a hack-saw to the axle a buy some new ones then. who knows?

The guy with the pipe idea sounds reasonable.

Get a hollow fence pipe and put it over your breaker bar.

Get like an extra 10 feet of leverage out of that shit and just yank on it.
 
I wouldnt recommend heating it up very much, it may damgage the wheel bearing.

If your brakes are on, just have someone sit in the car and hold the brake pedal down while you try to break the nut loose. Thats what I did, and it worked.

After breaking 2 sockets and 3 breaker bars, I sprayed the shit out of it with wd-40 and got another breaker bar with a 8 foot leg of a motor hoist to use as leverage. It came right off :)
 
the screwdriver is the best way. if the rotor dosnt move the axle wont either. i do swaps all day. trust me
and those books may be written by pros but most of the shit is written the same in all of them. a book is just a bunch of suggestions they are written for people who have a slight idea of what they are doin. not for people who r gonna try it their way no matter what
 
i told u farmer jason right. thats the same way i took off the rotor it was easy it took me 5 minutes to change my brakes and put everything back together. just follow his instruction up top. hope u figure it out
 
Originally posted by farmer_jason@Jan 31 2003, 01:38 AM
...a book is just a bunch of suggestions they are written for people who have a slight idea of what they are doin. not for people who r gonna try it their way no matter what...

I don't care how you take off whatever parts from your car,it has no bearing on my life.But manuals are not written by people with a SLIGHT idea of what they are doing.It is called formula to get from A to C you need to go through B.I also have taking a few cars apart in my day,and the FACT is that steps in the manuals are the easiest surest way to get things to work.I don't understand how you could even think about a swap and not take the axle bolts off first,how?That says you haven't done it before and came up with some make shift way to do something that isn't hard,a hard way.
 
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