guages, oil, water, electric

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ok im looking for some guages to add to the crx. really only gonna go with a oil pressure, water temp, and voltage. i really dont even know where to look to buy them. i cant seem to find what im looking for anywhere. i like the autometer guages, but it doesnt seem any of them light up. i want something that i can see at night. the guages also must be electric. how accurate are autometer? im all for accuracy, but i dont want to spend an assload on these guages either. i also want all the guages to match, and be the same color, preferably black.

so to recap:

want oil pressure guage
want water temp guage
want voltmeter guage
must be electrical
must all match
must light up for night
preferably black
where to get? suggestions?

next i know about installing them and not mounting the senders on the block. but where can i get lines from the block to the senders? i dont want to use nylon or copper tubes, id rather use a stainless braided line. in addition i know you remove the stock oil pressure thing on the back of the block to tap into the oil pressure, but where do i tap into the coolant for the water temp guage? somewhere on the head? also is it manditory to still utilize the stock oil pressure sender for the guage? what about water?

thanks
 
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This was a parts list from McMaster I used to take a stainless line from the back of my block to a distribution "T" on the firewall which houses my stock and aftermarket oil pressure sending units as well as the feed line that goes to my turbo.

You wont need all of it if you already have a feed line. Prices might be a little more expensive these days, but shouldnt be by much.
 
looking at that might as well be in greek, lol. mind explaining which each thing is? i dont have a turbo, im NA, so i wouldnt need the 54" ss line?
 

ripperbone

Rest In Peace
i got my autometer gauges from summit and yes they light up at night so you can see them. i have the phantom gauges (white face) to match my white face gauges in the cluster. autometer does make black face sport comp gauge's that will match your stock gauges
gallery_36382_304_109945.jpg
 
Originally posted by GSRCRXsi@Sep 8 2005, 02:56 PM
i like the autometer guages, but it doesnt seem any of them light up.

[post=551511]Quoted post[/post]​


They all light up. I have the Autometer Autogauge b00st gauge and it lights up nicely at night.

. . . . why not get the "Autometer Lunar Series"? Those are indiglo backlit (very nice looking).


lunarglowcloseup.jpg
 
Originally posted by GSRCRXsi@Sep 8 2005, 03:36 PM
looking at that might as well be in greek, lol. mind explaining which each thing is? i dont have a turbo, im NA, so i wouldnt need the 54" ss line?
[post=551537]Quoted post[/post]​


If you goto www.mcmastercar.com and type in those part numbers...pretty good pictures pop up of what they are. Should get an idea from that...
 
ok, so i wont need that 54" line though right?

and yea i saw the lunar series but i dont want indiglo guages. not my cup of tea. it seems the regular guages light up, im just gonna go wih the sport comp black.
 

ripperbone

Rest In Peace
Originally posted by GSRCRXsi@Sep 9 2005, 10:31 AM
and yea i saw the lunar series but i dont want indiglo guages. not my cup of tea. it seems the regular guages light up, im just gonna go wih the sport comp black.
[post=551907]Quoted post[/post]​

:thumbsup: the black face sport comp are nice gauges also, pretty easy to install also
 
xenocron, one more question. i think i can see what all the parts are for, but what is the 45 degree angle fitting for? to angle the line upward away from the block?
 
Originally posted by GSRCRXsi@Sep 10 2005, 09:18 PM
xenocron, one more question. i think i can see what all the parts are for, but what is the 45 degree angle fitting for? to angle the line upward away from the block?
[post=552497]Quoted post[/post]​


I believe that is the 1/8" NPT to -3an fitting that goes into the standard Garret turbo that the 54" -3an feed line connects to...you shouldnt need that either.
 
ok, what would you suggest as the best way to fit the line comming out of the block? 90deg up parallel to the block, or straight out perpendicular from the block?
 
edit: BSPT is the threads on the block :) the hose from mcmaster-carr is NPT.

another question, lol. what kind of sealant should i use on the threads? will teflon tape work? or is any even needed?
 
ok this is turning more technical so im gonna move it after this post.

anyway i think im gonna ditch the voltage guage for now and go with oil temp. only thing im iffy on is exactly how to mount the sending unit. basically ive come up with 3 different ways. let me know your suggestions on which you think will be best. keep in mind i dont want to spend alot, but if i have NO other options then ill spend what i need to.

here they are.

#1- use 2 T's. one directly off the block and another on the firewall.
gallery_1242_466_7436.jpg


this will be the cheapest solution. only thing that concerns me is the T directly on the firewall. i know people take the T off the firewall because of the weight of the senders, but the temp senders weigh no more then the stock senders from what i can see so maybe it will be ok? also this doesnt have the sender directly in the block but i aslo think this will be still close enough to get an accurate temp reading. although actually in the block will always be better

#2- use a GE sandwhich adapter with temp sender in it
gallery_1242_466_12929.jpg


this will be a more costly solution, but could posibly be better since the block fitting has no extra weight (however so small) and puts the sender in direct contact with the oil

#3- use GE sandwhich adapter for the pressure reading, temp sender in block
gallery_1242_466_9437.jpg


another costly solution. but could also be better then #1 again because temp sender is directly in presence of oil in block and no added strain on the block.

--------------------

so let me know what you guys think. i would be perfectly happy going the route of #1 for cost reasons, but if you can come up with any definitive reasons why #1 would be bad or harmful then i could go either route 2 or 3. id also like some opinions on if it matters betweens the #2 and 3 setups.

and where can i buy the GE adapted sandwhich if i decide to go that route.

thanks
 
Use a Male BSPT to Female NPT, and a male NPT to -3an adapter to a 24" braided line. You could also use something like the TunerToys fitting...

Take the braided line to 2 T's on the firewall and hook up your stuff from there. The least amount of weight on the block the better...
 
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