H22 no power

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Jay65

New Member
I swapped my 93 h23 for a 98 h22 vtec, and so far it has no power what so ever. No check engine light (good thing) throttle response is good, overheats from time to time but not a big problem. Vtec kicks in at 5000 rpms but nothing happens, it actually bogs down a little, so I just disconnected it. I'm running a p28 ecu, h22 injectors and fuel rail, the compression is good but can't figure out why I have no power? I have a turbonetics turbo kit I want to install but I want to fix this problem first. I haven't changed my fuel pump could that be the problem. I really need help.
 
is the p28 chipped? if not you are running a civic fuel/ignition map on your prelude. Sounds like it needs a tune. use the stock p13 until you get some tuning software
 
I swapped my computer with my friends stock h22 and it ran the same way, but I'll try the tuning. Is there a program that I an get to do it myself? Where I live tunings are expensive
 
well if you used an h22 ecu then tuning isnt the issue. you need to figure out why it is over heating for starters.
 
The overheating was due to my fans ot turning on, I just changed the relay fuse and it stopped over heating. I'm thinking about installing a bigger fuel pump
 
well running an obd2 motor in an obd1 car don't help the issue ether... So if you did an obd2 to obd1 conversion i would start there also your h23 ran low impedance fuel injectors, the h22 in 98 didn't also would cause an issue... small things to check out
 
the h22 like said above needs the p13, I have ran an h22 off a p14 before for a couple of months no problem. But if your using your stock h23 engine harness, the fuel injector harness runs to the low impedance resister box 1st before the fuel rail. You ethere need to get h22 low empedance injectors or an h22 92-96 harness other wise ya car is going to have fuel issues all day, and I don't think a turbo kit is a wise idea. the h23 would have been a better turbo'd car stock as its a better block to boost, inless u spend 10k on ya block like i did at one point
 
the motor will handle the boost just fine. the h22 and h23 blocks are made of the same material...frm sleeves. the weak points for both are the ring lands and rod bolts. keep it to 300whp and you will be fine.
 
I'm starting to think this engine is a lemon, I ordered a chipped hondata p13. If that doesn't help I'm sellin the engine for scrap
 
A normal p13 would work or should work fine... I have never seen an h22 take 14psi from a dsm junk yard set up, have seen an h23 take it all day, must be the diff heads and 2.3 vs 2.2... ether way I would agree the ringlands and bolts are weak
 
I installed the new harness and computer, and to my surprise it runs the same. This engine is scrap
 
Dude...please slow down and approach this logically. Do a compression test. Check the timing both on the belt and with a light. Perhaps the distributor is clocked incorrectly? It sounds like you don't really know what you are doing, nor have you really done a thorough diagnosis. Don't just throw your motor away...at least give it to me.
 
I've had the compression tested, it's good the timing s good. With the new harness and ecu everything is new.
 
Well if the compression and timing are ok and everything is new, there is an error somewhere, made by the installer. From what you are describing, there is either a wiring or electrical issue, or your ECU is bad, or you need to check the distributor clocking.
 
I have never seen an h22 take 14psi from a dsm junk yard set up, have seen an h23 take it all day, must be the diff heads and 2.3 vs 2.2... ether way I would agree the ringlands and bolts are weak

You obviously have no idea what you are talking about. The h23 gets more displacement thanks to a longer stroke on the crank. The cylinders are made from the same material...FRM. Of course they have different heads. One is a vtec head the other is non vtec but the heads have nothing to do with how much power the stock motor can hold. Both motors can hold 300whp.

The problem with your statement is that someone is using a "junk dsm set up" which means they are probably using a junk software program for tuning (if any at all). Ask anyone it is all about the tune.

BTW 14psi means jack shit. A t25 at 14psi and a 60-1 at 14 psi will flow very different CFM. More CFM= more power in its efficiency range. A properly built turbo set up, not some junk dsm set up, will lead to more useable power, it will be safer, and will increase the life of the motor vs some junk setup. Some dumbass that pieced together some junk turbo kit will inevitably blow his motor up.

a tuner in texas( sn on Honda-tech is St00pid) had a 530+whp turbo h22 that had a completely stock long block with the exception of a pair of b20 valve springs on one cylinder to replace some bad h22 valve springs. it ran for 8 months running every weekend until one of the b20 valve springs broke and dropped a valve.
 
Well I decided to pull it out and trouble shoot it myself, everyone has there own opinion but I'm gonna check everything top to bottom. I know it's something small and simple that everyone has overseen. And for the record I don't have a junk yard set up, my engine is one of the cleanest and nicest looking engines that I've seen yet. Keep you guys posted
 
That's a good idea..you have to understand that diagnosing over the internet is nearly impossible. the most anyone can do is point you in the right direction.
 
Took the whole dam thing apart and to my surprise everything was good, turns out it was my ECU! So I programmed it with hondata then tuned it and to my by god the beast awakened. This bastard is a monster. It's also turbo ready so that's next. Thanks guys for y'alls help
 
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