So ive noticed an astounding lack of h22a questions, so I figured I would shoot some.
I recently did a b16a swap into my 93 hatch and I am loving it, other than not having low end power.
This is the reason for me wanting to do a h22a swap with the new quartersports h2b kit. The buzz over at honda-tech(dont flame me too much for that statement) is this new kit that allows you to use a b series tranny, axles, and mounts.
The kit costs about $900 and includes brackets for using your b series mounts, b series tranny, and axles.
It requires some grinding on the webbing at the back of the block to allow the bracket to be bolted up.
FRAME RAIL ISSUES:
*A SOHC alternator is required(because of its smaller size), as well is the use of a alternator bracket made by ExplicitSpeed that pulls the alternator closer to the block for further clearance(I dont know if the alternator is on the front of a motor on a H series motor, but if not, then this kit repositions it there.)
*The balance shafts located in the H series motors take up a suprising amount of extra rotating mass that can be eliminated with little to no side effects. A company by the name of Kaizen makes Balance Shaft eliminator kits that get rid of the pulleys, and get rid of that extra rotating mass. This makes timing belt changes easier, and provides you with a average of 4hp on a stock motor(dyno proven). Also not much extra vibration is incurred by the removal of these.
*Either you will need to get you stock H series crank pulley machined off so it just is 1 pulley, or somehow get your hands on a Accord EuroR OEM single pulley, which is almost impossible. The easiest wasy is to just have the stock pulley machined.
After all these mods you may still have some clearnace issues, which just have to be cured by banging in the frame rail a little bit.
The wiring I belive would be the same as on my b16a, other than the IACV valve I believe, or maybe it has something to do with secondary butterflies, I cant rightly remember as of now. I have heard some people use a resister box for the injectors for some reason. Could anyone elaborate on this?
Ill update this post continally and have a good, comprehensive post, if anyone is interested.
I recently did a b16a swap into my 93 hatch and I am loving it, other than not having low end power.
This is the reason for me wanting to do a h22a swap with the new quartersports h2b kit. The buzz over at honda-tech(dont flame me too much for that statement) is this new kit that allows you to use a b series tranny, axles, and mounts.
The kit costs about $900 and includes brackets for using your b series mounts, b series tranny, and axles.
It requires some grinding on the webbing at the back of the block to allow the bracket to be bolted up.
FRAME RAIL ISSUES:
*A SOHC alternator is required(because of its smaller size), as well is the use of a alternator bracket made by ExplicitSpeed that pulls the alternator closer to the block for further clearance(I dont know if the alternator is on the front of a motor on a H series motor, but if not, then this kit repositions it there.)
*The balance shafts located in the H series motors take up a suprising amount of extra rotating mass that can be eliminated with little to no side effects. A company by the name of Kaizen makes Balance Shaft eliminator kits that get rid of the pulleys, and get rid of that extra rotating mass. This makes timing belt changes easier, and provides you with a average of 4hp on a stock motor(dyno proven). Also not much extra vibration is incurred by the removal of these.
*Either you will need to get you stock H series crank pulley machined off so it just is 1 pulley, or somehow get your hands on a Accord EuroR OEM single pulley, which is almost impossible. The easiest wasy is to just have the stock pulley machined.
After all these mods you may still have some clearnace issues, which just have to be cured by banging in the frame rail a little bit.
The wiring I belive would be the same as on my b16a, other than the IACV valve I believe, or maybe it has something to do with secondary butterflies, I cant rightly remember as of now. I have heard some people use a resister box for the injectors for some reason. Could anyone elaborate on this?
Ill update this post continally and have a good, comprehensive post, if anyone is interested.
you also have to get creative on the upper radiator hose its not hard but do some thinking.
