Help Building a B18a

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assman

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Ok, Well, I just sold my B16 and now Planning on building an LS engine, heres what i had in mind, CTR pistons on LS rods, Crower Stage 2 cams the street one,skunk 2 cam gears, with the crower retainers and springs and vlaves, headers, have head port n polished, well thats all i had in mind, basically this is my daily driver, and dont really need a shitload of power, im looking for just something like high 14s or low 15s would this do it for me? also i would like to hear peoples opinions on this, also what would be required for the pistons to fit? how much would it cost to get them in and would i have to bore anything? im not really into engines i do body work, so is my set up a POS?
 
JE forged VTEC pistons, with stronger RODS (not the weak stock ones), Block guard, and a VTEC head with CTR CAMS would do the trick.
 
Naw, Im not intrested in LS/Vtec this is my daily driver, and i dun wanna deal with all that ls/vtec stuff, but thx anyways, come on people keep the opinions coming
 
The main thing i want to know is what do i need to do in order for the CTR pistons to go in my LS
 
dude, they will fit on your stock rods, and they should fit your block if its still a standard size bore.

i'm actually doing the same kind of build right now, my CTR pistons should be here by the end of the week. i don't know if it will be possible to run on 91 octane fuel but i am going to try it.

how long before your setup is together?
 
Dood im juss waiting for more research i can already get everything but i dun wanna have any regrets ya know, so if i slap the pistons on the ls rods will the pistons hit the valves? since the pistons have a dome right? or is this not a factor... tell me how ur set up goes and much luck hope everything goes smoothly
 
how come people dont pm me when these kinda questions come up. hey man, im doing what ur doing, but im already 80% done. i already have the crower 403 cams( u called them stage 2) with the springs and retainers, with a port and polish job, i am waiting for $$ before i put b16a pistons and rods in there. dont use stock LS rods b/c they cant spin past 7500 RPM. after that they are known to let go. either go with JE forged, or b16 pistons, also use JE rods or b16a rods. i had a set lined up for me for 150 bucks, but i just didnt have the $$. also, if ur doing all that, get a good clutch/flywheel. i recommend ACT heavy duty with the Heavy duty pressure plate, and either the ACT flywheel or lightening the stock integra flywheel. i also just got cam gears and have yet to install them. but the local track is closed so i cant give u any #'s really

the best i got b4 was 14.7 at 95mph with a shitty ass 2.5 60' that is my car

1990 CRX Si
I/E crower 403 cams with titanium springs/retainers
mild PnP
9.8:1 compression
prefect 180- compression on all cylinders
act hd clutch and pressure plate with 13lb flyhweel

i know i can hit 14.4's with a good launch. and after i get a header and cam gears in, i will buy slicks and go for high 13's next season. if u have any questions man hit me up and ill let u know.
 
Originally posted by SleEPeR_CRX@Oct 15 2003, 02:38 PM
dont use stock LS rods b/c they cant spin past 7500 RPM. after that they are known to let go.

jesus christ. How many times are you gonna post the same stupid fucking n00b comments? My rev limiter is at 7500 and ive hit that all the time, thats with boost, mind you.

DONT POST RETARDED SHIT
 
Originally posted by assman@Oct 13 2003, 03:39 PM
Naw, Im not intrested in LS/Vtec this is my daily driver, and i dun wanna deal with all that ls/vtec stuff, but thx anyways, come on people keep the opinions coming

i can see you dont fully understand the LS/VTEC concept......

With the R/S ratio in mind:
with a regular VTEC engine (head and block) you can rev it to 9000 RPM (chipped)
*remember you would be better off at 8200 unless you have cams to make highend power*

But with the LS/VTEC 8200 is enough AND safe.....guys go out there with a HALF BUILT LS/VTEC (half built: without strengthing the block) and rev it up to 9000 and then when their engines blow they blame it on the LS/VTEC concept. I say it's the DUMB ASS driver who doesn't know what he is doing, who ends up blowing his motor.

here is a CHEAP ASS way to build a killer N/A LS/VTEC

ALL HONDA PARTS

B18B block
B16B CTR or B16A 2 gen PISTONS (CTR are better)
GSR HEAD ....this is good (you can get ITR skunk2 IM for this head)
or B16A/ITR/B17A head with ITR manifold.....i preffer this setup
and just finish it off with a block guard.......

simple and off the back you are making almost 200

here are two dyno sheets of LS/VTEC's
18lsvtec21.jpg


lsvtec5.jpg
 
once i have a set of cams on my ls, and i have the valve train set to handle those kind of revs i'll be able to hit that without a vtec head.

once i do go ls/vtec though i wont stop unitl i have at least 200 n/a whp.
 
I can say that thats a nice set up but thats some shitty ass torque readings. i think you should just use some low compression 8:1 JE pistons, crower rods, and non vtec cams, a block girdle and boost it to about 12 psi, you'll be see much more impressive numbers, probably around 260/190, I just can't drive a torqueless car, Just my .02
 
Originally posted by chingro@Oct 13 2003, 12:33 PM
JE forged VTEC pistons, with stronger RODS (not the weak stock ones), Block guard, and a VTEC head with CTR CAMS would do the trick.

why on earth would he want a block guard? those can end up doing more harm than any good.
 
Originally posted by B16+Oct 16 2003, 04:38 PM-->
@Oct 13 2003, 12:33 PM
JE forged VTEC pistons, with stronger RODS (not the weak stock ones), Block guard, and a VTEC head with CTR CAMS would do the trick.

why on earth would he want a block guard? those can end up doing more harm than any good.

well i gess i have more luck than you guys...

i used the STR block gurad in all my setups, never over heat, no problems...and the engines ran for years...

and i started using it becasue of a freind with a fully built turbo setup with the same block guard (his best time i have seen with my own eyes, was 11.3, OH yeah his motor was built by DRT in Queens NYC)............and his motor ran for almost three years, before a valve flew, and he repaired the head and is currently putting the motor back together....(i think he is finish now)
 
holy christ this thread sucks.

blockguards- worthless. they hold in heat, inhibit flow of coolant, and frankly, don't protect where the protection is needed. 90% of cracked sleeves START at the middle of the sleeve, where the outgoing force is the strongest, due to the rod angle as it moves the piston up from the crank's stroke. don't take my word for it. T.O.O agrees.

how come people dont pm me when these kinda questions come up.


because:
A- they don't know you
B- if they did, they probably still wouldn't PM you.
Why? here's why. you HAVE NO FUCKING CLUE WHAT YOU ARE DOING EITHER.
dont use stock LS rods b/c they cant spin past 7500 RPM. after that they are known to let go. either go with JE forged, or b16 pistons, also use JE rods or b16a rods


RODS DONT SPIN. cranks do.
RODS DONT LET GO. hell, they were never holding anything in the first place.
JE doesn't make rods.
b16 rods are the wrong fucking length in an LS bottom end. you will have .003:1 compression if you use b16 rods.

Now, for n00b number 2.
i think you should just use some low compression 8:1 JE pistons, crower rods, and non vtec cams, a block girdle and boost it to about 12 psi, you'll be see much more impressive numbers, probably around 260/190, I just can't drive a torqueless car, Just my .02


You can't drive a torqueless car??? THEN WHY THE FUCK ARE YOU SUGGESTING 8 to FUCKIGN 1 COMPRESSION??????? wave good bye to any non-boosted power or torque. Fucking dog, will spool slow as shit too.

OH yeah his motor was built by DRT in Queens NYC

Who gives a shit? I mean honestly, does your friend with a fast car have ANYTHING to do with this thread?? no.
results are not typical.

I lsot 312412 lbs off eating a pill for breakfast, a shake for lunch, and 12323 grams of fat for dinner! SO CAN YOU!

god this thread sucks.
 
RODS DONT SPIN. cranks do.
RODS DONT LET GO. hell, they were never holding anything in the first place.
JE doesn't make rods.
b16 rods are the wrong fucking length in an LS bottom end. you will have .003:1 compression if you use b16 rods.


#1 everyone knows what i mean by rods not being able to spin past 7500 RPM anyway, so what does it matter. by letting go i mean they cant handle any higher RPM than 7500.

#2 No JE doesnt make rods, i was looking on the crower websight, and i mean crower rods, not JE

#3 didnt know that.

also, block guards can be a good thing, i have yet to hit a problem with overheating, i also run the SRT blockguard, i think its always good to have extra just incase, maybe instead of bad mouthing them, u should get 1 and try it out, and maybe ull see that they dont overheat.
 
Originally posted by SleEPeR_CRX@Oct 17 2003, 11:36 AM
RODS DONT SPIN. cranks do.
RODS DONT LET GO. hell, they were never holding anything in the first place.
JE doesn't make rods.
b16 rods are the wrong fucking length in an LS bottom end. you will have .003:1 compression if you use b16 rods.


#1 everyone knows what i mean by rods not being able to spin past 7500 RPM anyway, so what does it matter. by letting go i mean they cant handle any higher RPM than 7500.

#2 No JE doesnt make rods, i was looking on the crower websight, and i mean crower rods, not JE

#3 didnt know that.

also, block guards can be a good thing, i have yet to hit a problem with overheating, i also run the SRT blockguard, i think its always good to have extra just incase, maybe instead of bad mouthing them, u should get 1 and try it out, and maybe ull see that they dont overheat.

We all also know that YOU ARE A COMPLETE MORON You have absolutely no idea what you are talking about and have been the worst source of misinformation that this board has seen in a long time. They can handle 8000 RPM just fine. You have absolutely no valid info to back this claim yet you continue to make it. Do us a favor and shut the fuck up.
 
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