HELP NEEDED ASAP b18b swap EG hatch Will not run right

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

ProjectBroke

New Member
Hey guys,

Obviously I'm new, I have been lurking for a while now, but a problem has arisen and I need help now.

I have a 92 civic hatch with a 94 b18b swap, stock.

The car ran perfect up until a couple weeks ago, all of a sudden it would have a bad surging idle and would jolt when you let off the throttle. After I cleaned the IACV, theat problem went away, but the car would not idle until warm (New problem). I have dealt with having to let it warm up until now.

I am moving RIGHT NOW from Idaho to Indiana, and I'm stuck at a Day's Inn in Utah. All of a sudden on the freeway, the car started losing power and sounding like a boxer engine, like it wasn't firing on all cylinders. Then it just died, no power. Got it off the road, and after a while it fired again, would not idle, but I limped it off the freeway. Went to autozone, determined it would not idle because of the fuel pressure regulator. Had to drive to a dif. store to get one.

I got halfway to the other autozone when it died again, this time for good. Stranger took me to get the regulator, got back, installed. Car fired up, but has terrible idle, fast roam from 15-1600 and when you let off the throttle it just drops all power, it's not smooth like it should be, hard to drive it like this.

Now it's throwing a CEL, after a minute or two of idle, which I can't check right now. It's snowy and raining badly , maybe a possible cause?

Sorry for the long ass post, but I wanted to lay out everything. I need to get up in the morning and drive 1100 miles. SO PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD HELP.
 
Get a paper clip on that service connector under the right side of he glove box so you can see what code you have.

But it might be something with the distributor/plugs/wires too. CEL First! Once the paper clip is in the service plug, Count the flashes on the CEL on your cluster. Long flash is increments of ten and short flashes are increments of one.
 
I would say your coil on your dizz is shitting the bed,I just had one go out the other day, was doing some of the similar things you speak off...
 
Time to update:

Made it to Indiana. Woke up in Utah, found no help on my thread so I went ahead and tried the freeway. Made it to a small town on the WY boarder, car started shaking violently over 3k rpm, pulled off to flying J. Found out that it was going into Limp mode, CEL was throwing a 0, staying on with jumper.

Pull of Cap, rotor won't come off. Scrape off some corrosion on the cap, put it back on. Nothing. Won't start. Sit for hour, come back, still nothing. Call autozone, order new cap and rotor. Suddenly, car starts, no limp mode, no shaking. Running 100%. Fucking weird.

Get on free way, make it 50 miles, car shuts off on freeway again, limp it off. Wait 15 mins, car fires, runs like normal. Took off. Made it to little america gas station, still running fine. Shut off, get coffee and gas. Come back, car starts, revs to 1500, dies. Several times. Limp it off the gas pump. Suddenly runs fine again, CEL blinking, thinking I left the jumper in, I counted blinks. Code 11 (Overheating?) and code 1 (O2 sensor). Turns out, no jumper, CEL was just blinking WTFMAN.jpg.

Get on the freeway, drive 200 miles with the CEL going on and off, all of a sudden, lights go off, CEL goes bright, car dies. Loud Pop and sparks from under the dash, everything comes back on, runs 100%. Still to this day it's running fine, so more than a week.

Any fricking idea what happened? Or what could still be wrong?

Stupid car.
 
Your poor car! And poor you for dealing with this crap stranded.

Maybe you got issues under your dash? And did you get the old rotor off? Distributor might be toast cuz you mention corrosion in there.

P.S. I did try to help but never got a response until now.
 
Last edited:
a blinking CEL means a CAT damaging miss fire
I detected no miss-fire, I believe it's a faulty connection leading to the blinking, as the time between blinks changed.


^^^^^^^^^say no more^^^^^^^^^^^
New plugs, wires, dizzy was dry and looks fine. Electrical maybe, but not in these components.

remove that dash and check for burnt wires........
If it wasn't my daily, this would be done. However, I can't spare the time without it.

The issue seemed to have gone away, until now. It has something to do with moisture, as it is raining heavily today and after a 20 min. drive it threw a code and shut off, after a turn of the key, fired right back up. It did this 2-3 times during my trip. I have also noticed that "my key is in" noise is now going off regardless of key position. It has an aftermarket alarm system, it's so cheap I can't even find a brand name on the control unit. After the car throws a code, when I restart it, the alarm beeps 3 times. I am starting to think that it has an immobilizer and the shit wiring is getting wet and causing a short. Any other ideas?

Also, sorry about the length between posts, just got internet again.
 
wow dude that sucks bro, i have no clue what that could be. sometimes you can go to a honda dealership and talk to the techs maybe they can tell you what it is or they might be dumb as hell like the ones in corpus christi who go to autozone to buy stickers that say honda, duh we know its a honda
 
Any decent stereo shop could check the wiring. I would advise a new unit. You can get a decent alarm for $300 installed. And they'll get rid of the old system.

But I want to know the codes you are throwing.
 
remove all that alarm shit, hopefully that makes your gremlins go away, try a main relay harness test, maybe who ever put the system in hacked into a ground or something. good luck
 
Back
Top