I Want High 12's At Worst

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Yo....
I want to run low 12's at worst in a daily driving 5th gen civic coupe, wont gut anything, putting 17" rims on it.
Whats the cheapest engine/turbo combo to get this done.
 
Originally posted by 94Civintegra@Apr 3 2003, 10:31 PM
Yo....
I want to run low 12's at worst in a daily driving 5th gen civic coupe, wont gut anything, putting 17" rims on it.
Whats the cheapest engine/turbo combo to get this done.

If you want to be running 12's, cheap should've be in your vocabulary. Even less so because you want to make it a daily driver.


If you want cheap and something realiable sell off your rice rocket for a 4.6L rustang.


ELSE...

pony up the cash and do it the right way, not the 'cheap' way.


"Speed is a rich man's game."
 
Turbo LS B) , is your best bet for cheaper speed. A turbo GSR motor will give you more power, but it costs alot more then an ls. There was an article in honda tunning about a chic that had a turbo ls in a hatch and she ran 12's.

That being said dont think that you can just slap a turbo on an ls and run 12's, when i said the turbo ls would be cheap I meant compared to say a turbo GSR or H22. Running 12's will NEVER be cheap, but if you build you motor right and tune it properly (otherwise it'll go BOOM!) then you should be able to hit 12's in a couple.

Keep in mind making power is only half the battle, especially in a FWD, you have to get that power to the ground. Look into some serious suspension up grades and stickier tires :spin: .

If you've ever been in a car that can run 12's at that worst then you'll know just how @!#$ fast that actally is :blink: , those cars can give you serious whipplash :D
 
Originally posted by 94Civintegra@Apr 3 2003, 10:31 PM
Yo....
I want to run low 12's at worst in a daily driving 5th gen civic coupe, wont gut anything, putting 17" rims on it.
Whats the cheapest engine/turbo combo to get this done.

:ufucktard:

1st ditch the 17s they will only slow you down
2nd low 12's on a daily driver will cost you $$$$$$$$
3rd low 12's on a full interior 5th gen will cost you $$$$$$$$$

cheap and low 12's dont belong in the same topic

just go to the store get some snaeker white and put "12.23" on your window :bash:
 
I read an article like that in SCC a while back. This girl and her boyfriend built up her civic hatch with a LS motor and turbo charged it and it ran 11.68@123 mph. Before the turbo she ran 12.6@107 mph with nitrous (nitrous is the cheapest, but unsafe way to go fast).

Supposedly they did this at a cheap price. They still used high quality parts:

Golden Eagle Blockguard, rev hard cast manifold, Garrett T3 turbo, Spearco intercooler, AEM cam gears, custom 3" downpipe, GReddy exhaust, Hondata Stage 4B engine management (properly tuned), Walbro fuel pump, Aeromotive fuel regulator, RC 440cc injectors.

Have fun if you want to be a cheap bastard (just kidding)!
 
Nitrous isn't "unsafe"... the driver makes it "unsafe".

Shami's in Houston- go find her boyfriend to build you an LS/turbo and tune it to run 12s. :lol:
 
Turbo honda's are a never ending cycle of buying, breaking, and spending. Trust me on this one.
 
Originally posted by New2TheCarScene@Apr 3 2003, 10:33 PM
If you want cheap and something realiable sell off your rice rocket for a 4.6L rustang.



I can't believe you used reliable and a ford product in the same sentence :p. Shell out the cash for a 98-up camaro with the ls1. Fuck a ford and more importantly, fuck that ohc design of the 4.6.

:)
 
the rivalry with ford and chev is compltetely stupid, there performance engines are all the same. The same engineers that work at ford also worked at GM and chrysler, its the same talent pool. :sleep: neither is more reliable then the other.


Now back to hondas :)
 
i want to know if he honestly thinks that an engine that can handle both boost and nitrous was actually cheap to build. in that article it took three people pouring all their cash into one car for over two months to build that car to what it was. and they were running 15's in a hatch that has a lower base weight than his coupe. two words "Fuck-Tard Ricer". :blink:
 
NOS is fucking retarded in a daily driver, especially if you have a turbo ;) . NOS is used with LARGE Turbo's in order to help reduce large Turbo lag.


NOS is for drag racing, NOT daily driving :huh:
 
couldn't have put it better myself. for more proof about my fucktard ricer comment, just look at the guy who started this posts name.
 
:whatafucktard:

first off saying you wanna run 12's cheap in a non gutted car with 17's is like saying you wanna be God

secondly it's pretty clear you've never driven or even been in a car that fast and have no clue how fast it actually is or what it takes to get there

i wanna be first in line to watch you get torque steered into the wall and shit your pants the first time down the track. that is assuming you spend the cash to have your car built that fast in the first place :bash:
 
First off I didn't say Cheap... I said Cheapest. If you can't understand the difference go back to grammer school and stop acting like a little kid on the internet. As far as price of an engine goes, Im not too concerned about that anymore because I found a b20b4 with a GSR head on it, and a t3/t4 hybrid turbo on it. Im not sure what else, I havn't really gotten the chance to take it apart or even look at it.

I never said n20... you guys did


So now my new question for you guys is about getting HIGH 12's at worst. That doesn't mean LOW 12's consitently... that means upper-mid 12's consistently.. big difference. Sht I'd be happy with High 12's consistently.

What has to be done to a b20b4 block with a GSR head and a t3/t4 turbo to get high 12's in a full interior car.

I've seen a boosted civic on stock SOHC internals get 11.831 and 12.117 1/4 mile... then he boosted over 20psi and blew up, but the fact remains its possible to do on 105 octane gas and massive boost.

Thanks guys, sorry if I pissed you off.
 
you can't really say cheapest and 12's in the same sentence tho unless your talking crotch rockets, and when you say cheapest 12's w/ full interior people are going to say nos. because 12's require a lot of power, and with a FF car like a civic it takes even more, and when you add full interior-------->even more, and when you say cheap, people say nos.
 
Ok guys listen up, chill the fuck out and read the guy's question. he said the CHEAPEST way, not a CHEAP way. He also didn't say he would have 17s on track day. And a full interior isn't out of the question. What is out of the question, and completely inconsiderate, is your response to his post. I wish you all would lose your PMS over 17s


Sorry 94civ for all the shit., listen, here you go.

12s streetable could *most likely* be attained with an ls/T setup - and losing your 17s for some race rubber at the track.

your looking at most likely, roughly, 10,000-12 in the car. and that is cutting corners a bit - it all depends on your parts hookups y0. and how much you can do yourself.

I would reccomend an ls/t, utilizing a t03/t04e or a t60-1, with a resleeved block + a standard honda overbore. Obviously a large intercooler, Added with a blockguard, completely upgraded bottom end, completely upgraded top end, and new pistons - but keeping around the same compression. have everything ported and polished, and upgrade your entire fuel system. Standard ignition will probably serve you fine. I'm sure people will have much to add. Also, you said something about running on race gas - it is really tricky, if not impossible, to tune a car properly with boost for race gas and pump gas - since you want streetable.


As for your b20 block thing, I have no clue about those setups.

lata man
 
94Civintegra

Yo....
I want to run low 12's at worst in a daily driving 5th gen civic coupe, wont gut anything, putting 17" rims on it.
Whats the cheapest engine/turbo combo to get this done.


b81c1 + t3/t4 hybrid with .48 a/r + 50 shot + 15" wheels + race rubber + driving school = ~$12,000+ and 12's in the 1/4mi.


my $.02
 
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