Minor Problems After Ls/turbo Swap

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MarkJimenez99

Senior Member
I just swapped my 99 civic DX automatic for an LS Turbo Intercooled Manual Transmission. After the swap, I came across a few problems.

First, my "check engine" light is on because I'm running an SI ECU and it thinks my car has VTEC. That's why the light is on. I've heard that I could get a JDM ECU to solve the problem. If so, does it matter what model and year? Do I have any other options?

2nd, the people who did the swap took out my power steering. They said that there wasn't any room for the pump and the bracket connects different from a civic. I still would like to have power steering. There has to be a way to retain power steering and air conditioning on a 6th generation civic. (I have retained my air conditioning and I want to keep it) Can someone help?

Last, my horn doesn't work. They checked my horn and they said that all the connections were fine. Do I just need to replace the horn?

I would appreciate some help.
 
First of all, get a hondata EMS. It is stupid and dangerous to run an SI chip on an LS/T. I mean it's ridiculous. It's like saying your going to run your PC with the motherboard from your cellphone.

Secondly, I have heard that you cannot retain your power steering often. It's not a big deal, you don't really want it anyways. Start going to the gym and get some shoulder muscles. heh.

as for your horn, I don't know. Check the fuse and all that. thats my only suggestion.
 
Yeah, power steering is ok once you get used to it. It's just that it's handy to have so I still want it. Hmmm, I need an ECU so the SI ECU is better than nothing. How about the JDM ECU's? Can I use those? What's going to happen if I continue to use the SI ECU? My idle is kinda off though but it's ok. How much is that hondata thing you're talking about?
 
if you continue to use the Si ECU with boost, your motor won't last long, and it will suck ass while it does. A jdm ECU has nothing to do with boost, unless your getting a VAFC or other such devices. get a HONDATA.
 
I just need to get rid of my check engine light and make sure the car is running properly. For now, can I just buy the Apexi VAFC? Those hondata ecu's are expensive.
 
true. I cannot say for sure if you will be able to run properly with a vafc. Trade someone that Si Ecu for a non vtec ECU. I bet your check engine light is telling you that there is no vtec knock sensor or oil pressure sensor. There is no way your engine will run properly without doing some major fucking around with the vtec on the Si ECU. Also, make sure your boost is turned all the way down, and be sure your a/f ratio isn't going nuts. You don't want to waste a good motor like an ls/t just because you rushed. Get the right parts together, and do it right. Trust me man, you will be much happier in the future if you just make sure everything is in order first.
 
I think I'm just gonna take my car to a Hondata dealer and ask them what I should do. I don't want to mess up my brand new engine with 22,000 miles. Thanks for the help though. I didn't know that it was bad to run an LS Turbo with an SI ECU.
 
yea. just take it to a trusted hondata tuner. they will tell you what they need to do. and keep it under 4k on the way. :)
 
i think u should get the LS ecu according to the OBD of the motor.. then that should get it back to some what stock.. and if you have cash, definately get the hondata.. its not necessary if youre not running a lot of boost and dont have gigantic injectors to screw your idle.. then just a boost controller and tune it.. but it would be way better to get an ems and have someone tune it..or urself if i can :)
 
I heard that the LS ECU isn't going to work because of some sort of security issue. I'm not sure. The engine seems to be running fine and I don't hear any weird noises. I just think that the idle is a little bit off. (just a lil) I don't have a lot of money left over to spend on tuning so I can't really spend anymore money. Also, how do you turn the boost down? I think it's at 7psi right now. I haven't been revving it high lately. I daily drive it to work everyday. (It's about 20 miles from my house) I usually try to keep it under 3 RPM. Any more suggestions considering that I'm on a budget. Please help.
 
to turn the boost down u need a boost controller.. or just dont floor it :lol: manual boost controllers are cheap and probably can make urself.. dunnoe how though.. but its cheap.. just turn a screw to adjust boost.. for nice boostcontrollers, they get pricey for the GReddy Profec B, HKS EVC IV, etc.. u can probably look around for manual boost controllers for about 50 bucks or so.. late
 
So do you think my engine will be fine for a few months if I keep it under 4 RPM? I'll eventually get it tuned of course. Thanks for the advice.
 
Originally posted by endlesszeal@Apr 10 2003, 10:54 AM
to turn the boost down u need a boost controller.. or just dont floor it :lol: manual boost controllers are cheap and probably can make urself.. dunnoe how though.. but its cheap.. just turn a screw to adjust boost.. for nice boostcontrollers, they get pricey for the GReddy Profec B, HKS EVC IV, etc.. u can probably look around for manual boost controllers for about 50 bucks or so.. late

you have no idea what you're talking about

please explain how you turn boost down with a boost controller....

learn how turbos and wastegates work, then come back :thumbsup:
 
Originally posted by MarkJimenez99@Apr 8 2003, 11:13 AM
Hmmm, I need an ECU so the SI ECU is better than nothing. How about the JDM ECU's? Can I use those? What's going to happen if I continue to use the SI ECU? My idle is kinda off though but it's ok. How much is that hondata thing you're talking about?

you have a forced induction car, with no sort of fuel enriching device besides a vtec ecu? lol

get the right ecu for your motor, and some something to increase fuel under boost whether it be hondata, ems, afc hack, fmu+ pump, ANYTHING!

btw, if you have the control to keep your car COMPLETELY out of boost until you get one of the things to give you fuel in boost, you should be ok for a while....
 
I can keep my car running under 3 RPM before the boost kicks in. I've been driving like this for awhile and everything seems to be running ok. So I should be safe until I do something about the ecu and get my car tuned, correct? It may take several months til I do it because I don't have the money right now. Thanks for the advice everyone. If there's anyone that thinks running under 3 RPM with just and SI ecu for a couple months is really bad, please let me know.
 
at the moment i dont know much about the boost but my homeboi got a 00 Si with a b20/vtec turbo... he still use has his power steering and air conditioner so if a b20 can do it why not a b18 please correct me if im wrong

JDMFreak
 
you should be chill as long as you keep your engine off of boost. runnin' the si ecu shouldn't fuck up your engine... it just doesn't offer optimal performance. if you go into boost, your air fuel ratio will go lean cuz of too much air and not enough fuel, when that happens you will be more likely to have detonation which WILL kill your engine. so in the meantime, keep your octane high and your boost minimal. when you do upgrade... the least expensive thing to do would be to buy a Vortech FMU for 'bout $180. when you do that you should also upgrade your fuel pump. also what size turbo are you runnin'?
 
Originally posted by JDMFreak405@Apr 11 2003, 12:42 AM
at the moment i dont know much about the boost but my homeboi got a 00 Si with a b20/vtec turbo... he still use has his power steering and air conditioner so if a b20 can do it why not a b18 please correct me if im wrong

JDMFreak

different manifolds, turbos, wastegages and downpipes allow for different clearances.
 
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