My First OEM Rebuild Need Advice

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GlassHeadlights

West West Yall
As some may know my high mileage B18C1 dropped compression in cylinder 3. After removing the head for inspection I think its just time for a whole rebuild.

Soo...my dad just rebuilt a D15B7 for his DD EG hatch. The price for a clean, hone and parts (rings, bearings, gaskets) was lower than $600. It came out awesome. 5000 miles in and it doesn't loose any oil, leak anything and it gets outstanding gas mileage.

But he is an old man and I'm a kid with a high revving engine so I want to do this right without blowing it the f%*# up. For now the GSR is staying in stock form which should make things easier.

I will be ordering my parts from HondaPartsCheap.com (only company that ships to Canada). I believe all the parts I need will be the same for a '95 Del Sol VTEC. About 10,000 miles ago I replaced all of the external gaskets on the GSR so I only need the internal stuff.

Here is my parts list (I hope)

Valve seals (8 intake, 8 exhaust)
B16 P30 head gasket
Ring set (I believe that was my failure)
Bearing set (still unclear on choices)
Thrust washers
Oil pump

What is the best way to go bearing wise? OEM has so many different sizes so what happens if I plastigauge it and shits wrong? Or could I get bearings locally (not OEM) and hope for good quality.

After the block is disassembled I'll be talking with the machinist too.
 
Brad, the machine shop I use did all that for me. Part of the basic service, and no they aren't the cheapest in town.

Everything is fit, all I do is put it together. I asked them about plastigauge and they don't carry it - because, they do the work.

Basic machine refurb work is one thing. Full service work is another. If you can find such a shop, that's the way I would go. Maybe where your did took his they do that kind of service. That's where to start, talk to the machine shop. The machine shop got the bearings for me and fitted them - both crank and rods.

Everything needs to be measured and checked. Rods for roundness on the bottom end, crank for size and roundness, valve stems, guides and such.

I suggest having it balanced for sure with your driving profile. Stage 1 clutch set. Shitcan the used gaskets, replace all gaskets and seals. Three angle valve job. ARP stud set on the head would be nice too.

And watch the "Old Man" comments... :cool:
 
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God I always forget how old you are Dual-500 :p
Sometimes I forget how old I am - I know, it's very much abnormal - an 8000 RPM right foot connected to a 58 year old leg. Hangs out online with a bunch of 18-30 somethings on an online car forum......

All the makings of perversion!!!

I walked in to work a couple of weeks ago, told my boss I siezed up my car engine (he knows I built it last year, saw pics, etc.) dragging it - he about $h!t. :D

It runs in the family.

BACK TO BRAD's ENGINE

To save some $ you can reuse valve cover gasket and cam seals if you changed them. I would replace crank seals at both ends regardless of age. Plug well seals can be reused and the hold down rubber washers on the valve cover. Definitely suggest you replace the oil pan gasket. Not worth the risk of a leak - existing gasket, if it didn't have compression memory issues, would need to be real clean for sealer to stick to it.
 
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You should look into bumping the comp if you can tune it. P30 pistons would work perfect with about a 11.5:1 ratio.
 
There is only one tuner on the island and I've heard bad rep from him, always tunes rich then customers cars blow up.

I really want to make a solid 180-200 horse outta it one day...compression bump, cams, valvetrain work, intake and exhaust...but its really not feasible at the moment. I have to start a 7 month welding course in mid July so time is a factor haha.

Some chick at work got fired for drunk related problems so I've been working extra hours lately. Bonus is I have more money but less time. Tomorrow I may get the block out of the car.
 
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