Problems after re-build

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OK i just rebiuld my LS motor, New piston,rings all new seals and gaskets. Well i put the motor in over the weekend and it wouldn't start. I finally got it to start but i have to keep pumping the gas to keep it running. If i let the gas go it stalls and if i hold the gas steady it stalls. I checked the compression and it was 120 psi in all 4. Normal is 180 - 210. but i think this is becasue the rings haven't seated yet. Can anyone give me ideas on what to check. Now i'm not sure but i might have put the head gasket on upside down. Could this cause my proble if it is on upside down? Please give me and ideas you have so i can start checking ASAP
there are a couple things that could be the problem...

i rebuilt my ls over the winter with ITR pistons (210 PSI)

first thing i would check is the cam shafts.... make sure the little marks on the gears line up if not that is your problem.... if that is good
second pull the head and make sure the gasket is put on correctly... make sure the head and deck is flat

your problem should be then found... if not pull out a piston and check the rings are not fucked or put on wrong
Well i set the valve leash yesterday .04" on the intake and .07" on the exhaust side. Car idles at like 100 rpms? And i can hear some slapping around. I'm not sure if it's in the head, so i'm going to re-set the leash again today and see what happends. i'm goign to do the t-belt again while i'm at it. I know wthe timing is fine but can never be to sure. i'm so gettting sick of this shit already. anyone want to buy a ek 4dr with a b18b1 with a turbo kit?
Do a compression test. If it is good check for fuel. If you have fuel check for fire. If you have all three it might be the distributor is 180 deg. off. It is hard to get it backwards but it can happen. Are you getting any cells?
I thought that all honda distributors were offset making it impossible to be 180 degrees off in your ignition timing.

Also where did you get those valve lash specs? They seem a little off to me but I don't know much about and ls.
I got the specs from my helms. Helms states intake should be between .003 and .005 and exhuast should be between .006 and .008. The car will run if i hold the gas down it will rev all the way up and down fine no dog or back fire. Has gas, fuel and spark. It just won't idle. I'm going to set the leash again maybe i sliped on a rocker or two. The head is just make a horible sound, (well i think it's the head) kinda sounds like somthings slaping around.
check your firing order, this is a problem many people overlook, i can't imagine how many post like this with the same engine sympton and later they found out it's the firing order.
Originally posted by sihatchback_RL@Jun 1 2005, 12:54 PM
check your firing order, this is a problem many people overlook, i can't imagine how many post like this with the same engine sympton and later they found out it's the firing order.
[post=506170]Quoted post[/post]​

firing order is good. 1 , 3 , 4 , 2
I set my Crower 404's to .008" exh. and .006" intake for valve lash. They can be a little tricky to idle but its nothing like 405A's.

Alot of people check timing by looking at the "up" marks on the cams. This is impossible to get it just right. You prob. know this but put your crank pully on the TDC mark. Then line the inside of the cams towords one another a the line on the timing belt cover or the top of the cylinder head. It only take about 10 degrees off to run like piss. When you hit the gas is it smooth or does it stumble?
when i hit the gas it's smooth, but i hear slapping in the head i think. When i let off the gas it drops to like 100 - 200 and struggles to keep runing but i does. I'm going ot do the timing and leash again tonight in about 1 hour when i get home and i'll up date this. I'm goignto go with the max on the leash and see what happens. It really just might be that, Before the car wouldn't start period and i fucked with the leash and it started to were it is now. So maybe another adjustment and it will be cool. If not i guess it's time to save up 3 grand and send the motor to Jeff at IB and have it fully biult.
So last night i get home and take the valve cover off. What do i notice as soon as i get the cover off. A rocker arm on the exhaust side on # 2 popped out. Well i guess that was the slapping sound, So i fixxed and re did the valve leash and re did the timing belt. So the car will start but i have to have my foot on the gas ever so lightley. If i let off the gas the car still drops to like 200 rpms and just stummbles there and stays running. Another thing i noticed is that it's pulling like 20hg in vacuum? isn't this really deep? If anyone has any sugestions please let me know what else i should check? Or if anyone can sugest a place in New jersey that builds honda motors let me know. It might be time to take it to a pro.
Allright when you take the valve cover off the are holes on the top of the cam and caps that line up when you have the motor at TDC. Did you do this on the first cylinder??? the crank pulley should line up with the pointer the white mark. The red mark is the firing point. On the rest of the I use white out and mesure the crank and put it a 180 to the other side of the crank the use this to line up with the pointer when doing 3 and 2 cylinders. You can put the distributor 180 out but the motor wont run.On the idling problem did you check the sensors to make sure they where hooked up sounds to be the IACV. Check that and see what it does. let me know what happens

ya boy steveo
Heres a shot in the dark.. Check out your map sensor. check the connections/vacuum.. if either of those are loose or leaking, it wont idle or it will idle like piss.

also, that lash does sound just a little weird. and make sure you follow procedure. adjust them the same as your firing order. If you adjust them 1-2-3-4 it just wont work. I use a piece of coat hanger inserted through the spark plug hole to make absolute certain the piston is TDC..