rear anti-sway bar upgrade, anyone done this?

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rear anti-sway bar upgrade in their 84-87 crx, anyone done this?
i am really tempted to buy one.
never really upgraded sway bars before.


Regular Member w/ Cheese
It was easier than heck on my 2000. Highly recomended as one of the first thigns you attempt to do to your car. Though not sure of your crx exactly, I'm guessing it's basicly the same.

2 brackets that hold the bar to the frame, and 2 links that connect it to the lower control arms. 8 bolts total (maybe 6 in your case), it's real easy.


Regular Member w/ Cheese
Ya there was 1 for his in that link. Just didn't search very hard. That was on top of google's results


yeah, should be simple mod.
was wondering more if it was worth it and how big a diff over stock.
turbomirage i think you're right about it being an addition.
i think i found one for $50.


Regular Member w/ Cheese
I havn't got to drive with my new 18mm rear bar on my 2000 ex (stock it has none), but rocking it in the garage you really notice the difference.

After driving my friend's 95 cx hatch stock and then with type-r suspension I can tell you it's like night and day. It takes corners with basicly no roll. The first onramp to the highway you hit you'll know what I'm talking about. It's really much more fun to drive. Highly recommended. Huge difference over stock.


cool man.
wow you know your car well to know from rocking.
mine is def a corner body roller. prob at least 2 blown struts.
my friend upgraded his imprezza rear sway bar (anti-roll) and u could see it visibly twitch afterwards on corners.
one time w/ my 4th gen accord i wanted to be cheap and not buy a bigger rear sway so instead i just pulled off the front anti-sway bar. turns out you need a sway bar on the front otherwise the suspension/steering knocks around, lol. but the handling was better w/ it off.
still looking for the contact info for the guy i knew w/ the cheap anti-sway bar.


Regular Member w/ Cheese
best of luck bud. yeah you want to try and 'balance' the sway bar diameters to maintain some predictability thru corners. I went with the 18mm in rear because I have a 23mm front stock. type r has a 21mm rear and a 26mm front. So I maintained the type-r split as best I could, plus got some adjustable endlinks to correct any uneveness.

Ya before when i rocked it around it would continue moving for a decent amount of time after i let go. Now it imediatly ceases to move. I bet it will twitch when I'm driving it again :)


That’s how you get ants
jdm type R is 22 or 23 mm, i forget.

oh did i mention i have an ITR bar on my car? :) the cheapest bolt on option was 225 plus shipping. i was out about 85 bucks total to buy and get it on the car.



Regular Member w/ Cheese
wow on the mirage huh? that's some cool shit i guess; as long as it holds up lol.

ah ya that's right ok, i just looked it up again. just know the difference was where i drew my size pick. here's the list i found:

1992-1995 Civic Si: 21mm
1992-1995 Civic EX: 21mm
1994-1997 del Sol DOHC: 24mm
1996-2000 Civic EX: 22mm
1996-2000 Civic HX: 22mm
1999-2000 Civic Si: 26mm
1997-2000 Civic Type R: 26mm
1994-2001 Integra LS: 22mm
1994-2001 Integra GSR: 24mm
1996-2001 Integra Type R: 24mm

1992-1995 Civic EX: 13mm
1994-1997 del Sol DOHC: 15mm
1999-2000 Civic Si: 13mm
1997-2000 Civic Type R: 22mm
1994-1999 Integra LS: 13mm
2000-2001 Integra LS: 14mm
1994-2001 Integra GSR: 14mm
1996-2001 Integra Type R: 23mm (JDM) 22mm (USDM)

so since the type-r is 26mm front 22mm rear that's 4mm difference, why i went with my ex 22mm front and gave it the cusco 18mm rear (but it has excess adjustability, 3 different mount holes and adjustable endlinks)


Senior Member
The size makes a much larger difference than just the difference in diameter; there's a formula for computing the difference in rates. A 26mm bar is actually 95% stiffer than a 22mm bar, and a 22mm bar is 123% stiffer than a 18mm bar. This is assuming they're similar in design(solid and same material).

Also, instead of just looking at the sway bar f/r ratio, you have to pay attention to spring rate.
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Regular Member w/ Cheese
Eh that's crazy from what I've read TurboMirage, but I'll have my hands on experiance soon enough.

Yes I realize there's better formuals, but they wouldn't have helped me much as they dont sell every single size you could imagine, which is why I'm hoping the 3 different stiffness endlink mount positions on the cusco bar, as well as the 3 different stiffness levels on the LCAs, and the adjustable endlinks can help me find a happy medium. 18mm is very much in the ballpark I think, eh?


$85 ain't bad turbo. the mitsu guys must love your ways to use honda parts.
good research YB, adjustable is a good way to go.
yeah k2e2vin, so many suspension options. on top of sway bar diameters and spring rates, you have suspension geometry (pretty sure slamming car or different panhard bar would affect this) i'm not as knowledgeable about semi-independent rear suspension (irs) setups.
i'm really just trying to get the rear end out more, less understeer, etc. mainly for playing in rain/snow. i'm def going for a low/high (front/rear) sway bar diameter setup.
harder struts would help, front strut bar/tower should help too. i think diff panhard would help too.
hard to say w/ rear strut bar/tower in general on sliding rear out. had a slammed 240sx and the rear tower made it harder to get the rear out. but then i had a rwd 929 w/ a rear tower (custom-made from a front rx7 tower) that slid out more. even on drift cars, some are and aren't using rear towers for the same car depending on the overall setup and driver.


That’s how you get ants
dont forget if you lower your 1G more than what the teg torsion bars up front will do for you you will need an adjustable panhard bar for the rear. its solid axle, so when you put pressure on the long side it will move toward the wheel well.

it really is all driver preference. would i be faster with a front sway bar? maybe. but i really like being able to dance the rear end around on my FWD car.


I made the millionth post
The add-on rear bars clamp to the axle, and you unbolt the rear tie downs and add some brackets in....held together w/endlinks

I've got a whole kit out in the garage somewhere that I pulled off one of my old track cars

they work great depending on the suspension

I had the rear bar in combo with:
Tokico Illuminas
Ground Control Coilovers
Upgrade Motoring 27.5mm torsion bars
and a custom adjustable panhard bar

At first the car oversteered like a bastard, any late braking into a corner and the ass would start to come around, so I pulled the front sway bar (OEM Si) and it evened out pretty nicely....very neutral