Rear disc conversion

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I've been conteplating the idea of doing a rear disc brake conversion on my
is it really worth the $$ to do it ??

I'm not talkin wilwood or aem, I mean using oem acura/honda parts.
used of course

and if it is worth it anyone got a link for what parts I'd need
thanks in advance
ill second it being worth it... your stopping would increase dramatically
i did it on my 96 coupe, yes it is worth it.. and it was very easy to do as well :)
Its defenitly worth it! I did one on my hatch takes like 3-4 hours knowing what your doing. Cost would be like around $300 iam sure you could get less. has setups for you for like $250 the whole swap. (everything you need to do the trade out)
Originally posted by Brian@Rear Disc Conversion article
At a minimum, you need the trailing arms, upper control arms, discs, calipers and parking brake cables from the right car to complete this conversion. All right, lets get to it.
Dennis, ask this on the CRX list. A klot fo the reputable people on there will tell you that it is a waste of time. It would be good just to get some more opinions on it.
......drums vs disc......

drums are cheap
discs are more expensive

drums have more holding power, but fade much when heated
discs have good holding power, and avoid fade much better than drums, esp slotted or x-drilled styles.

drums let you lock up the e-brake much easier too, and thats always a plus

would i swap them? probably not unless I was going to be doing circle track racing.
I just swapped mine out this weekend, but I'm not staying with the stock rear discs for long. If you want to upgrade your stopping power, going from drums to discs in the rear really won't do much for you.

However, if you want to upgrade the discs to something like a Powerslot set and some more aggressive pads, it's worth it. The discs will help you resist fade, and your upgrade options are opened up a bit more. I'm eventually going with 11" or larger rotors all around with new calipers up front, but that's gearing things up for more track use.

If you want more stopping power and less fade on the street under aggressive driving, the discs are nice. Upgrade the rotors and pads while you're at it- it's really not that much more expensive.

Your total bill for the swap could easily be under $200 if you search around. This price is just for swapping out the brake parts at the rear of the car. If you want a complete brake changeover, swap out all these parts to beef up the brake system:

Brake booster
Master cylinder
Proportioning valve
Upgrade to braided stainless steel lines
Upgrade rotors
Upgrade pads

I haven't done the pads and rotors on mine yet, but it does stop a little better than before. My proportioning valve isn't in yet either... I need a pipe flaring tool so I can cut my stock lines and put the larger Integra fittings on.

The master cylinder and brake booster are a pain though- prepare to spend all day doing this if you want to change out all the components.

I know, I know... I'll post pics soon.

Anyone wanna buy a rear drum set with trailing arms from my 95 Civic?

Oh- FYI on price:

Booster/cylinder/valve = $100 from Honda Heaven in Arlington (master cylinder is bad though)
Rear trailing arms with disc brakes from 93 Si = $180
Resurface discs = $30
Goodridge braided SS lines = $140 (yes I know, high price)

My total on parts for the brake swap so far is $450, and I still need to replace the master cylinder (I'm pretty sure that's the problem). Once I upgrade the front calipers/rotors/pads and the rear rotors/pads, it'll probably be close to $1500 total... but I guess when you drop many more thousands to go faster, you'd better stop faster too!
That's some great info Calesta.
now I see you've got a 95 civic, did you just swap stuff from the equivalent year acura ???
Nope. The rear trailing arms/discs came off of a 93 Civic Si without ABS. You want to get the non-ABS disc setup, since it'll be easier to hook up and take up less space, not to mention save you a few unsprung pounds.


I had the master cylinder and booster replaced to move more fluid so that the brakes would feel better, then had the lines swapped out for braided stainless to take out all the mushiness. You'll want the SS lines for more control, and the bigger master cylinder to run larger calipers/pistons later. If you don't plan on upgrading the calipers, the stock master cylinder will probably be ok.

FYI- the LS master cylinder is 15/16", the GSR is 1", and the stock Civic unit is 13/16". Larger cylinder = more fluid displaced for the same pedal travel = less pedal travel required to activate brakes... which require more fluid to operate. More pistons in calipers = more fluid required to operate.

The proportioning valve replacement is needed to ensure that the proper F/R brake balance is maintained, but it's really not necessary. Now I'm not sure if the stock valve sends more fluid to the front or back- I need this information if any of you have it. I'm still running the stock valve right now, and it feels ok. I've read reports that the proper valve will make it feel a whole lot better. Right now I am locking up one axle before the other though- most of the time the fronts lock up first, but sometimes the rears go first too. The HYBRID page shows the fronts as being too heavy after the swap on the stock valve, so the drums might require more pressure for the same stopping force... I'm not sure though.

Any more info needed, hit me up. Someone let me know about the proportioning valve!
the drum prop valve put more pressure in the front. that is where most of ur braking "power" comes from for that set up. i keep a stock prop vavle even with a 5 lug conversion. and it brakes fine. a 4040 will increase your braking, but u run the risk of locking up the rears very easily, which if u are prepping for the track is not a good thing. even on full race slicks i had problems locking up the rears on a dc2. 4030 is an option as well, non-abs LS. hope some of this might help
3030 is actually the non-ABS Integra valve, not 4040. I have it sitting in my back seat. ;)

I think I'm still going to try and swap out the valves when I get a chance- I'm upgrading the front brakes soon anyway (much more than the rears will be upgraded) so I want a little better brake balance. Sending more to the rears will actually be a bit better for the track, especially if you know how to drive it well.

yes having more pressure sent to the back is good for track purposes, just not too much, u dont want the rears locking before the fronts do, trying to get them evenly balanced is a job for an adjustable prop vlave tho. but locking the rear sucks. i guess i should have mentioned that it was with 5 lug all around that locking was occuring in the rear with the dc2. with smaller discs it shouldnt be a problem.
Well, the front is getting a major upgrade, so it needs more than the rear for my setup. Most people just stick to the stock valve anyway...