SCREW IT! Im going big! STROKER KIT...here i come

hybrid89

thistownsucks...
Alright, heres the deal. I have put my CRX on hold for some time now while building my mild daily driven hatch. I am almost completed and am going to really go head first into finishing the rex.

My original plan was to do an LS/vtec fully built, which I have ready to go...but as most of us have been through..plans have changed. I have come to the conclusion that I will never be able to pull the power out of that setup that I really wanna see. My goal is to hit high to mid 11's N/A.

The car is gutted with a 8 pt. NHRA approved chromoly cage, fuel cell, everything is stripped. .....This is going to be a track car only, now that I have the hatch. anyhow, I have looked into every aspect of making horsepower, GSR, LS/V, K series, yada, yada...so in all my days of pondering, I think I came up with a final plan of attack. I want to sleeve and stroke the GSR setup I have layin around and get er done!...... so now that I bored you all here are my questions...

1. I know Eagle and Crower make stroker kits, crower is more money, but I know both companies are very reputable. has anyone had experience with either of theie kits? which do you prefer?

2. I noticed that on both companies sites, they state, if you go with anything bigger than an 84 mm bore, you have to lose the oil squirters? should I use my LS block if this is the case,, or savagley "kill" the gsr block?.

I want to go 2.1/2.2 litre. so I know I am at an 86-87 mm bore. which is pushing it.. i know. also looking to get in the 13:1-15:1 CR range

money or time is not an issuee. I will build it right the first time. just looking for opinions or what everyone thinks before i go "head first" into doing this and investing some serious $$$$$$

matt
 

sohcslammer

Senior Member
I think displacement is overrated in your senario, the difference between 2.0 and 2.1/2.2 is negligable and those oil squirters come in handy at 8500 and more revs. :D

Sounds like a rowdy build, I wouldn't even attempt 15:1 on c16. Just too much that can go wrong, and too much time,money, and effort claying the motor to check for valve clearances. If you are going to run race gas anyway (obviously) then I would rock 13 - 13.5:1 (which is STILL stupid high) and the biggesst mo-fo cams you can find. I actually have heard good things about Crane's roller cams. They supposedly make stupid power with 13:1 or more.

A GSR motor with an 84mm bore and stock crank is still 2.0 litres, your rod/stroke ratio is not AS fucked up, and at 13:1 c/r and the right cams and tunning; you're looking at 275 to the wheel. AT LEAST.

Now, I'm not a mathamatical genius, but I would think that a gutted CRX with a 275 wheel hp all motor monster, might be somewhere near the 11s. :lol: Actually, try DEEP in the 10s; for alot less money and effort.

If you run the stock crank then you should have it nitraded at a reputable machine shop first though. Actually, Matt, you know what the fuck you are doing, I'll just shut up and sit back and watch. But hey, you ASKED for opinions right? :p
 

hybrid89

thistownsucks...
Originally posted by sohcslammer@May 13 2005, 01:01 PM
I think displacement is overrated in your senario, the difference between 2.0 and 2.1/2.2 is negligable and those oil squirters come in handy at 8500 and more revs. :D

Sounds like a rowdy build, I wouldn't even attempt 15:1 on c16. Just too much that can go wrong, and too much time,money, and effort claying the motor to check for valve clearances. If you are going to run race gas anyway (obviously) then I would rock 13 - 13.5:1 (which is STILL stupid high) and the biggesst mo-fo cams you can find. I actually have heard good things about Crane's roller cams. They supposedly make stupid power with 13:1 or more.

A GSR motor with an 84mm bore and stock crank is still 2.0 litres, your rod/stroke ratio is not AS fucked up, and at 13:1 c/r and the right cams and tunning; you're looking at 275 to the wheel. AT LEAST.

Now, I'm not a mathamatical genius, but I would think that a gutted CRX with a 275 wheel hp all motor monster, might be somewhere near the 11s. :lol: Actually, try DEEP in the 10s; for alot less money and effort.

If you run the stock crank then you should have it nitraded at a reputable machine shop first though. Actually, Matt, you know what the fuck you are doing, I'll just shut up and sit back and watch. But hey, you ASKED for opinions right? :p
[post=498858]Quoted post[/post]​


and I appreciate them. Thanks!. Its just taht..what to do eaxactly, I guess I am looking for something that really grabs me! maybe something i HAVEN"T thought of....good start! anyone else wanna comment..
 

CrazyAzn

Senior Member
what about some sort of b20/vtec build up. sleve a b20 bottom end which is something like 2.2L if im correct, then in which case you dont need stroker kit. then you would just go all out on the build, pistions, crank, rods, etc etc etc. build up a b16 or gsr head and it would be a pretty crazy build. the only thing that would worry me are the things i have heard about the b20 blocks cylinder walls, but if you were to get it seleved then you wouldnt have to much to worry about. but if displacement is what you are going for, i believe this would be a pretty tight build.
 

hybrid89

thistownsucks...
Originally posted by CrazyAzn@May 13 2005, 01:14 PM
what about some sort of b20/vtec build up. sleve a b20 bottom end which is something like 2.2L if im correct, then in which case you dont need stroker kit. then you would just go all out on the build, pistions, crank, rods, etc etc etc. build up a b16 or gsr head and it would be a pretty crazy build. the only thing that would worry me are the things i have heard about the b20 blocks cylinder walls, but if you were to get it seleved then you wouldnt have to much to worry about. but if displacement is what you are going for, i believe this would be a pretty tight build.
[post=498863]Quoted post[/post]​



I would rather use the LS block, b20's suck ass as far as strength. This was another iddea I had, but the borttom end is way to weak..... As far as a head goes I have 3 fully built GSR heads with eevrything ready to go, I just keep changing my mind on the bottom end,,,,
 

posol

RETIRED
Staff member
dart big-block with the deck plate. gain yoru stroke by going with a taller deck.

cut your hood.
 

hybrid89

thistownsucks...
Originally posted by pissedoffsol@May 13 2005, 01:38 PM
dart big-block with the deck plate. gain yoru stroke by going with a taller deck.

cut your hood.
[post=498870]Quoted post[/post]​


yeah i thought of that also. do you know how much taller they are then a standard 1.8 b series?
 
as far as cutting the hood, someone now makes a raised hood for the ef's so that you can fit a k series in there with itb's and such. so that would prolly work with a raised deck B series.

Also i think i saw a kit on HT for an h22 into a rex with a bseries tranny, maybe it was just the conversion for h tranny to b, but im pretty sure they had a mount kit with it as well. Just another option i guess....
 

92civicb18b1

The Trisexual
if your willing to spend money put the k series in it.

k24 block with the k20a (i think this was the better one) head. Some cams and an ITB setup will put you in the 11s very EASILY.
 

jimboburgess

Go fast, Go Cheap
k24 block with the k20a


I agree that the k series would be the way to go for displacment.
plus it would be easiest to make 275 at the wheels plus not that it matters here you could have a 6 speed.
 

phunky.buddha

Admin with a big stick
Admin
VIP
Originally posted by hybrid89+May 13 2005, 10:38 AM-->
2. I noticed that on both companies sites, they state, if you go with anything bigger than an 84 mm bore, you have to lose the oil squirters? should I use my LS block if this is the case,, or savagley "kill" the gsr block?.

I want to go 2.1/2.2 litre. so I know I am at an 86-87 mm bore. which is pushing it.. i know. also looking to get in the 13:1-15:1 CR range
[post=498822]Quoted post[/post]​

Yup, lose the squirters. My pistons knocked mine off. Just get good forged pistons and block off the squirters- you'll be fine. Coat the pistons if you're really worried about something blowing up. Most of the pro race guys out there delete the oil squirters anyway.

That bore with that compression = head gaskets lasting 500 miles. Have fun.

Originally posted by [email protected] 13 2005, 12:01 PM
those oil squirters come in handy at 8500 and more revs.

Sounds like a rowdy build, I wouldn't even attempt 15:1 on c16. Just too much that can go wrong, and too much time,money, and effort claying the motor to check for valve clearances.

A GSR motor with an 84mm bore and stock crank is still 2.0 litres, your rod/stroke ratio is not AS fucked up, and at 13:1 c/r and the right cams and tunning; you're looking at 275 to the wheel. AT LEAST.
[post=498858]Quoted post[/post]​


Nah, not really.

15:1 on C16 is easy. You'll have to clay anyway, even with street gas compression.

An 84mm GSR is actually closer to 1.9L than 2.0L (1932cc)

R/S between the LS and GSR is negligible- the girdle is what really helps, not the geometry.

Originally posted by [email protected] 13 2005, 12:17 PM
I would rather use the LS block, b20's suck ass as far as strength.
[post=498864]Quoted post[/post]​


Not really any difference- crank/rods are the same. Sleeve walls are thinner, but they're not glass.

Originally posted by [email protected] 13 2005, 12:38 PM
dart big-block with the deck plate. gain yoru stroke by going with a taller deck.

cut your hood.
[post=498870]Quoted post[/post]​


:werd:

Not NHRA legal though.

92civicb18b1
@May 13 2005, 06:51 PM
if your willing to spend money put the k series in it.

k24 block with the k20a (i think this was the better one) head. Some cams and an ITB setup will put you in the 11s very EASILY.
[post=498969]Quoted post[/post]​


:werd:
 
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