Top end tick

[92stoccord]

So I feel like a n00b cause I don't know too much tech stuff, but I've been doing some reading.

My HX has a little bit of a tick, especially when it's cold, and in low-mid RPM. I know valve lash could be making my top end tick, and I've looked up a how to on it. I feel pretty confident that I could do it. Now while I was looking up info on lash, I found something saying that I have self adjusting valves, which sounds strange as hell, I'm going to look up how those work. I am ~8,000 miles into the 200K mark, and I have to change my timing belt (also looking up a how to). I know I should have done this BEFORE the 100,000 mark but I'm a poor tired lazy college student from Ohio. I also notice I only get about 30 miles/gallon, which is slightly lower than I feel I should expect from an HX. So I'm wondering:

Does the D16Y5 have self adjusting valves, and could they still be lashing?

Could my timing belt be causing the tick?

Is this tick possibly causing shitty (I really shouldn't bitch about it anyway) gas mileage?

Is there something else it could be? Maybe worn springs or something? I'm pretty sure it's in the top end, but I can't say for sure. It doesn't sound like a knock.

 

[K2e2vin]

No, D-series do not have self-adjusting valves. You can take the valve cover off and see that.

30mpg is pretty low since I've seen better or the same with 92-95 DXs(D15B7s); though can depend on your driving style(if that's all city then may not be too bad).

No.

Timing belt wouldn't make that type of noise.

Possibly.

Improper lash sounds like your best bet; especially since it's occurring when the engine is cold.

 

[lostsoulzprophet]

yep if your car sounds kind of like a sewing machine tick then thats your best bet. never huts to take the valve cover off and look.

 

[92stoccord]

Cool. Thanks guys. I guess I'll have to save up and get a gasket set and a torque wrench. I don't want to dally on this, for fear of a major fuck up.

 

[K2e2vin]

Gasket set for?

You just need a feel gauge set, 10mm box/combo wrench, and a flat head screwdriver to adjust the valve lash.

 

[CAFROG]

You just need a feel gauge set, 10mm box/combo wrench, and a flat head screwdriver to adjust the valve lash.

I agree.

No torque wrench needed either. Just dont tighten the piss out of them and keep it equal. get a slight drag with the feeler gauge and tighten the bolt. And double check the gap with the feeler gauge after its tight too!

I think the OP is talking about a valve cover/spark plug seal gasket kit?

 

[92stoccord]

Yeah I get the feeling it's going to crumble when I take it off, and I don't want to get caught with my pants down. Also the torque wrench was for the valve cover so I don't over tighten the VC and leak oil for the rest of my life.

 

[95dc4iwantoboost]

Get a Go/No go Feeler gauge. It works great for your type of work. If it fits its good, and will stop you from tightening it to far. Any autoparts store has them. Its a dual steped feeler gauge.

It has a 0.004-0.006 mark, but if it is above 0.006 it wont go in all the way. Just ask for it, they will know what you need.

 

[K2e2vin]

Just use a nut driver for the valve cover bolts. Ive snapped them using a 1/2" torque wrench before

 

[efhondakid]

Ive reused VC gaskets a few times without any trouble and the bolts only need to be snug.

 

[92stoccord]

I'll probably do it next weekend. We'll see how my money situation is after Kent State pulls my pants down sticks a gun against my back and calls me pretty.

 

[92stoccord]

Tore it down tonight, didn't have to replace any gaskets, but I'm keeping an eye on #4's spark plug seal. Intake seemed to be jammed down on a few of them. Mostly it was too low more than anything. Got it running, sounds better. Still sounds like its got a little putter in the top, but not as bad. And it seems to be happier. I'll check for leaks in the morning. As for now, it's bedtime.

 

[lostsoulzprophet]

good to hear.

 

[92stoccord]

So I went down this morning (We got some snow last night) and fired her up. It had a real loud tick still. Went away right after the first minute or so of idling. I'm not sure what the problem is.

I also managed to fuck up both my trunk release (I think the cable is kinked) and my passenger windshield wiper. I think the arm jumped gear and is rounded out inside or something, because it's just not moving at all.

 

[99sidude]

Sounds like it could be taking awhile to build up oil pressure when you start it up. Ticking that goes away could be caused by the top end not getting oil at startup. I know that the d16y series motors are known to have oil pump problems compared to older d series. Perhaps yours is going out? Easiest way to check is with a mechanical gauge temporarily hooked up. Does the oil pressure light go away right away when you fire it up?

 

[92stoccord]

I haven't noticed it staying on. I'll look into that though. Where do I hook up the gauge?

 

[92stoccord]

I'm considering taking it to the dealership and seeing if they can run a diagnostic on it to see where I'm hemorrhaging gas. Does anyone know if they can do this, or have a rough idea on what it'll cost?

 

[92stoccord]

I think everyone left or stopped caring lol... anyway

I went down and started screwing around with it to see if I could notice anything strange. It has been smelling like gas a little bit, but only while it's running. Also I checked the ticking, and it does have some breakup, but I didn't have anyone looking at the tach, so I'm not sure where it was. But I did notice when it has any rev, and drops back down to idle, it seems to miss on one cylinder. It sounds to me like 1 or maybe 2, but I'm not really sure.

My biggest suspects are

Timing

Vacuum

or maybe a bad sensor my CEL isn't telling me about?