daveholiday
Do work
well, and I guess now I'll know for future advice or if this ever happens to me what stuff to look for, since I have almost half a clue about it all now 
Andrew's engine swap (pics)
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Andrew
Active Member
VERY interesting...
Where did you buy those bushings? For what vehicle?
Is it a press-in thing, or did it just pop in?
Heres what happens to me:
1. In a straight line, I'll get up to about 25mph and it starts to lightly vibrate(as long as I'm still on the throttle. If I put no "load" on the engine - the point before power and decel - it doesn't do anything, unless I do #3.
2. If I gun it, and run through the top of 3rd gear, it's fine, doesnt shake at all.
3. If I'm driving down the road, say 40mph, and turn the wheel left, the car responds exactly like it should- nice and smooth transitions. If I turn to the right(even just a little bit, just enough to not be straight lol), it starts to vibrate really bad.
BUT. The thing is- I KNOW it's got to do with the axles, because the frequency of the vibration increases with the speed I'm traveling at... In turn- the increased speed of the axles.
yesterday I discovered something pretty interesting, too. Just driving real slow around the yard trying to figure this crap out... I was in reverse, the wheel was turned all the way to the right(the "bad" side...) and eased back a few feet. As I did it, it started jerking at the wheel as the axles turned slowly, like the U joints are binding up temporarily.It's like when you have a swivel ratchet attachment, and you turn it to one side as far as it can, and you turn the ratchet- the joint binds then continues to rotate after moving a little bit.
Hope that helps in identifying this issue. I honestly don't think it's got to do with the camber. I don't think I'd feel it so much through the axles as I do if it was camber. PLUS it wouldn't happen when I'm driving 5 mph down my driveway and turn right...
Where did you buy those bushings? For what vehicle?
Is it a press-in thing, or did it just pop in?
Heres what happens to me:
1. In a straight line, I'll get up to about 25mph and it starts to lightly vibrate(as long as I'm still on the throttle. If I put no "load" on the engine - the point before power and decel - it doesn't do anything, unless I do #3.
2. If I gun it, and run through the top of 3rd gear, it's fine, doesnt shake at all.
3. If I'm driving down the road, say 40mph, and turn the wheel left, the car responds exactly like it should- nice and smooth transitions. If I turn to the right(even just a little bit, just enough to not be straight lol), it starts to vibrate really bad.
BUT. The thing is- I KNOW it's got to do with the axles, because the frequency of the vibration increases with the speed I'm traveling at... In turn- the increased speed of the axles.
yesterday I discovered something pretty interesting, too. Just driving real slow around the yard trying to figure this crap out... I was in reverse, the wheel was turned all the way to the right(the "bad" side...) and eased back a few feet. As I did it, it started jerking at the wheel as the axles turned slowly, like the U joints are binding up temporarily.It's like when you have a swivel ratchet attachment, and you turn it to one side as far as it can, and you turn the ratchet- the joint binds then continues to rotate after moving a little bit.
Hope that helps in identifying this issue. I honestly don't think it's got to do with the camber. I don't think I'd feel it so much through the axles as I do if it was camber. PLUS it wouldn't happen when I'm driving 5 mph down my driveway and turn right...
Last edited:
mac_24_seven
@pump_upp - best crypto pumps on telegram !
Andrew, have you called dad and explained the problem to him?
Dunno if he'll know anything, but it never hurts to ask somebody with experience.
Also, if you can replicate this driving in reverse at a slow speed, get Forest out there and have him looking while you drive backwards... Maybe he can see something?
And if you're 100% sure it has something to do w/the axle... Return it and get another.
It may be as simple as you got a bad axle (even though it's new). Mishaps in manf. happen all the time. Dude who assembled it might have smoked a lil too much crack
Dunno if he'll know anything, but it never hurts to ask somebody with experience.
Also, if you can replicate this driving in reverse at a slow speed, get Forest out there and have him looking while you drive backwards... Maybe he can see something?
And if you're 100% sure it has something to do w/the axle... Return it and get another.
It may be as simple as you got a bad axle (even though it's new). Mishaps in manf. happen all the time. Dude who assembled it might have smoked a lil too much crack
Andrew
Active Member
I might give him a call today.
I'm going to do some more research and make sure I've got the right axle. I'm using 93 LS w/ the ABS ring(I asked for NON abs but it came w/ it anyway. it's not hitting anything, So I didn't bother knocking it off).
I wonder if I should try a 92 w/o ABS and see if theres any difference?
I'm getting SO tired of pulling these axles out.. but at the same time I'm getting really good at it
I'm going to do some more research and make sure I've got the right axle. I'm using 93 LS w/ the ABS ring(I asked for NON abs but it came w/ it anyway. it's not hitting anything, So I didn't bother knocking it off).
I wonder if I should try a 92 w/o ABS and see if theres any difference?
I'm getting SO tired of pulling these axles out.. but at the same time I'm getting really good at it
Andrew
Active Member
Would that cause excessive vibration? idk?
I've been pricing all this stuff out(turbo stuff) and heres what I got so far(after tax):
~$130 cast log mani
$65 TBO335 T3
$90 rebuild kit (if I need it. I'll check for leaks and shaft play Sunday.)
$85 oil feed/return from Stealthmodeperformance.com
$15 oil restrictor (.065")
$20 DSM BOV.
So thats about $400 so far, and I might not need the rebuild kit(right now).
All I need is charge pipes, down pipe and some time....
I've been pricing all this stuff out(turbo stuff) and heres what I got so far(after tax):
~$130 cast log mani
$65 TBO335 T3
$90 rebuild kit (if I need it. I'll check for leaks and shaft play Sunday.)
$85 oil feed/return from Stealthmodeperformance.com
$15 oil restrictor (.065")
$20 DSM BOV.
So thats about $400 so far, and I might not need the rebuild kit(right now).
All I need is charge pipes, down pipe and some time....
NissanNiNjA2nd
Senior Member
Wheel bearing.... sounds like driver side, but you need to lift the front off the ground and try to wiggle the tire. then replace everything that has slack in it.
Andrew
Active Member
Sounds easy enough.
I'll try it when I get home.
And you say the left one(drivers side)... I guess that would make sense, when I jerk the car left, all the weight transfers to the passenger side tires. when I go right, all the weight goes to the drivers side...
hmmmmm
Maybe I'll be doing my EX knuckle/DA brake swap sooner than I thought
daveholiday
Do work
I'm out of ideas, and you guys are getting into stuff that I don't know so much about, so I'll be just taking in information and probably asking blind questions when I get to them
mac_24_seven
@pump_upp - best crypto pumps on telegram !
But it would make a nasty noise if it was the bearing.. and they just don't SUDDENLY go out.. It's a gradual thing unless you damaged it somehow. And for it to be so bad the wheel was abotu to fall off, you'd hear metal to metal scraping... Not saying I'm a car guru, but I didn't hear anything like that and I've heard bad wheel bearings before and I was listening for weird sounds.
Even then, it wouldn't cause the steering wheel to jerk.
You can check it Andrew, but I don't think thats it at all. I'm still going w/axles.
And very sweet on the turbo kit price...Dudes on TI should have some turbo piping laying around... I'd check, but I was banned again Second time in 2 weeks.. Don't even know what I did!
Even then, it wouldn't cause the steering wheel to jerk.
You can check it Andrew, but I don't think thats it at all. I'm still going w/axles.
And very sweet on the turbo kit price...Dudes on TI should have some turbo piping laying around... I'd check, but I was banned again
Second time in 2 weeks.. Don't even know what I did!
daveholiday
Do work
And very sweet on the turbo kit price...Dudes on TI should have some turbo piping laying around... I'd check, but I was banned again
way to be
91_civic_si
Member
Does it make it when you turn? Does it sound like someone is beating on your floorboard with a sledgehammer?
daveholiday
Do work
you don't have to read that far up to know when it happens, I actually think he's answered if a few times, probably at least once on this page
That sucks about the grinding you have going on, I had this with my D16 but figured out something really funny. Bolt in the caliper had vibrated loose and the caliper was rubbing against my steelies. Haha. Fixed that. Anyway, good luck with fixing the problem, sounds to me like you're down to the wheel bearing?
Oh, and the turbo kit.. sounds nice that will haul some major ass
love this thread.
Oh, and the turbo kit.. sounds nice
that will haul some major ass love this thread.
Andrew
Active Member
I didn't get a chance to jack the car up at all yesterday...
Thanks man. It's pretty fast now... I just don't wanna drive it :S
Can't wait to get turbo stuff together. I'm buying my turbo tomorrow or Sunday.
I'm going to call my buddy down that owns a honda shop down the road and see if I can get my car on the lift and let him take a look at it.
Oh, and the turbo kit.. sounds nice
love this thread.
Thanks man. It's pretty fast now... I just don't wanna drive it :S
Can't wait to get turbo stuff together. I'm buying my turbo tomorrow or Sunday.
I'm going to call my buddy down that owns a honda shop down the road and see if I can get my car on the lift and let him take a look at it.
91_civic_si
Member
you know I have read the whole thing. my swap made a noise like that and it turned out to be the diff. some people are just trying to help out.
daveholiday
Do work
We all appreciate the advice, if I come off like an ass, sorry, I get frustrated real quick with shit sometimes and people asking questions that have been answered a couple times already is one of them. So I apologize if I sounded rude.
Andrew, any luck?
There's way too much to read so i'll just give you some input on what the shaking could be...
When that was happening to me, it turned out to be the intermediate shaft. The intermediate shaft had some 'play' in it for some weird reason. Take yours off and try shaking the female end and see if it feels like it's a little loose from the actual shaft itself. If it shakes even a little bit, that's your culprit. It's not supposed to have any play at all. I threw on a new intermediate shaft and viola... no more shake, shake, shake...
As for the cable tranny casings go, only the 90-91 casings are the same. The 92-93 cable casings are more related to the hydro casings.
When that was happening to me, it turned out to be the intermediate shaft. The intermediate shaft had some 'play' in it for some weird reason. Take yours off and try shaking the female end and see if it feels like it's a little loose from the actual shaft itself. If it shakes even a little bit, that's your culprit. It's not supposed to have any play at all. I threw on a new intermediate shaft and viola... no more shake, shake, shake...
As for the cable tranny casings go, only the 90-91 casings are the same. The 92-93 cable casings are more related to the hydro casings.
