bmxer9893

Recently did B16a1 swap in my 1991 CRX hf. Car ran fine for the first trip to my buddy house which was about 20 minutes. Then when i got back in the car it ran great for first 5 minutes then began to bogg/sputter around 5000 rpm. Ran fine if i let off the gas and didnt rev it up to 5000 rpm.

Now when i first start the car it will run fine though all the gears all the way up to 8200 rpm but after i do that it will start to bogg/sputter at 5000 rpm and not allow me to rev any higher. The longer I drive the car the worst it gets. After 10 minutes of driving the car will only rev to 3000 rpm without sputter/bogging. If i cut the car off and restart it a minute later it will run fine through all the gear for one run then start the bogging all over again.

I do not have any CEl codes. Have tried different spark plugs, wires, and cap, and filter filter. No of those seemed to change anything. I have a walbro 255 fuel pump which is wire to a on/off switch since the fuel pump keeps blowing the 10amp alternator solenoid valve fuse for some reason when wired to the main relay.

I belive it is in the ignition system but not sure. Have test resistance of coil and it tested good but think it might be breaking down when it gets warm causing it to misfire/bogg.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. have been trying to search for the problem for a few days now. Any suggestions?

bmxer9893

Was doing some searching on the internet and someone having the same problem. They came to the conclusion that there motor was having a cooling problem. So i checked the resistance of my ECT sensor and got around 160 ohms. Which means the motor was hot. The computer could be trying to compersate for the motor running hot by cutting it out at higher rpms. And when i cut it off and restart the motor might cool down enough to run good for a little before it gets hot again. What do you guys think?

bmxer9893

have tried running the car with o2 sensors unplugged and had same results. Tried running car with ect sensor unplugged and had same result other than cel light for ect sensor. Switched o2 sensors because i might of had them backwards and still had same results. Tried adavaning and retarding timing and still had same results. I can cut car off while coasting for a minute and turn it back on and it will take off like a rocket but then start to bogg and shortly after. Still thinking it is in the ignition. Maybe the dizzy? or Coil? not sure.

bmxer9893

still having same problems. I might try to swap coil off of D15 motor. Not sure if they interchange but have same numbers on them. Cant seem to get the torque screws off without stripping them. I am thinking that when the coil gets warm it is producing less vots making the spark plugs have a weak spark that would cause it to bogg out. pretty sure it is not in the fuel system because if it was it would run bad all the time not just when warm and restarting the car would not change a problem with the fuel system. Also know that the problem is not engine temp related because it does it at all temps. Which leads me to belive it is electrnic/ignition problem. I am thinking that when i cut it off for a moment then turn it back on it gives the coil or what ever it is enough time to cool down and recover enough to get another run out of it until it gets hot again.

Has anyone else had this problem? please help

bmxer9893

have some good NEWS finally! Even though no one has made any replies to this thread i will contiune to update in case some one runs into this problem down the road.

i swaped the rotor button off of my d15 onto my b16 after seeing that the one on m b16 was half black and half shiny.

drove car for 2 hours and ran much better than before

First hour the car great but seemed to have some lagging problems but if i cut off the fuel then turned it back on it seemed to pull off like a fieght train. Was very exicted. Fuel pump also seemed quieter.

After first hour car begin to cut out more around 6 grand and work work fine if restarted. Simliar to before but not nearly as bad. Fuel pump went back to singing loudly again.

Have not pulled off distirbutor to see if the rotor button is pitted again. And have not pulled spark plugs again to read them. IF rotor button is pitted again what does this mean? i dont want to have to carry around a box of rotor buttons just to run right. Could the timing be doing this?

thanks for all the help it is greatly appreciated

bmxer9893

inspected rotor and spark plugs and everything seems to be normal. will take it for another test drive shortly

bmxer9893

took car for test drive. For the most part is way better than before. i could barely drive it before without stopping and restarting. Seems to ran great during first run but starts to hesitate after that. i can pedal it through the high rpms but engine sputters. if a restart it is fine for one run then starts all over again. Also if i cut the fuel pump off for a few seconds it seems to run a lot better afterwards for first run.

I am thinking that most of it is still in the rotor button since i used a old one off of my d15. Might need to go buy a brand new one for the b16 instead of using a d15 one which might be different but i dought it.

Also thinking that my o2 sensor might be backwards but i am leaning towards the rotor button. will buy new one and post resluts.

bmxer9893

switched o2 sesors again and still sputtered

the sputtering actually feels more like detonation. About a week ago i put about 2 galloons of 89 octane in the car by accident. Motor may be catching some of that 89 in the tank. Right now the gas is amost at E which is the lowest it has been. Also noticed that the sputtering is happening at all rpms as long as there is a load but will come and go. I can usually pedal the car a little and it seems to snap out of it. the sputtering is happening so erractic that it leads me to belive thta it is probably in the fuel.

Will get you all posted

kucy04

i have the same problem with my D16a6, ive replaced my fuel pump, pressure regulator, o2 sensor, and still the same problem, its with a load on the engine, but mine seems to be intermitent,
im going to reset my timing and see if that helps, it looks as if it has slipped a notch or 2

Kilpuri

Have you guys found solution to this problem?

I have thinked my brains out already!

Loosing my brains with B16A2 (S2 Pro 1+) - Honda-Tech

I'd really apreciate your help finding the solution!!!

blasterman87

something i had problems with on my d16 in my old rex was after i replaced the fuel filter it had these same problems.. come to find out it was air trapped in the lines going in/out of the filter.. try cracking the line lose and see if air comes out, it dont take much to mess it up

Kilpuri

Need to try that also.

BTW: Timing is also checked. I have also double checked the valve lash. 0,007" on intake side and 0,008" on exhaust. These values are recommended by S2. I assume that faulty O2- and / or MAP - sensor should give Engine light signal.(?)

I am going to be a bit desperate!

CiPhEr

I had a Lincon that did that. I spent tons of money trying to figure it out. Changed fuel filter Fuel pump O2 sensor etc... turned out that the problem was a cloged cytalitic converter try giving it a spin with the cat off

OGMatt

I have never found someone that talks too much.............. until now.

Kilpuri

Cat is completely removed. so that can not be the issue. Note that My car is OBDI (P30-G11 ECU). => no O2 sensor on CAT.

Ethan

did you try a different distributor?

Kilpuri

Yes, I bought one completely new from the distributor king.

Idle maybe improved a bit but still if pressing the gas hard from idle it sound like misfiring until proper rpm is met.

I have not been able to try it with load (driving / dyno)

CAFROG

Sorry if you said but I don't see what is going on in terms of OBD on the swap

Dizzy? ECU? Alternator? Fuel Injectors? Wiring harness?

Issue could be based on these things being mis-matched too...just a thought

Kilpuri

I have not swapped anything I have just similar sympthoms as did the guy who posted message #1.

Car is original VTi (JDM) equipped with B16A2, but OBD1 ECU (P30-G11). Car is 1997 where Honda used OBD2 wiring harness (on JDM models only) even though it was OBD1.

crxsi809

hey hi guys so i decided to join this forum after running into this thread in google so my crx si is doing the same thing! it drives me crazy i bought the car and it hasnt been driven in 8 years so i dumped all the old gas changed the fuel filter and the fuel pump got it started but not it does that bog and then my cel comes on i shut it off and turn it back on and its fine for a 1 or 2 then does it again what is it? i found a small gas leak but that wasnt it either help please! did anyone check and see if they had air in the fuel lines?

safiro21

Hello! I change my dpfi for mpfi and i have the same problem all ready i change distributor cap rotor wires spark plugs and still doing the same. idle good but when get hot and high rpm start doing the same sh::::: computer give me code 20. The first problem i fund was the coil give me spark sometimes and other time nothing change mudular and the same stuff, well i cahnge all the distributor and now start and idle good. I thinking put the water running throw the trottle body. I check the alternator and he give me only 13.45 with nothing on, when i turn everithing on go down to 12.45 that mean not charge???? bad alternator?? I don't i tired of think. Any Help THX

INJEN78

old thread...make your own