free obx throttle body to the person that can help me

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97hatchdx

New Member
Ok, I have a bit of a problem. I had a d16y7 that blew up. So i bought a motor. I found out later the d16y7 i bought was an automatic. That was okay because i could just bolt on my manual transmission and be fine i think. Well my problem is this...

I get codes 1 & 14

mil 1 = I looked up by googling it and i found mil 1 to be...
P0131 Primary HO2S Circuit Low Voltage (Sensor 1) or
P0132 Primary HO2S Circuit High Voltage (Sensor 1)

This code didnt come up until recently..prolly the past day or so

MIL 14= P0505 ICS MALFUNCTION or
P1508 IAC Valve Circuit Failure
P1509 IAC Valve Circuit Failure
P1519 Idle Air Control Valve Circuit Failure

Im not sure which one it is because i cant take my car to autozone to read my codes. The reason i cant is because when i try to give it gas it sputters really really bad, and starts rocking my car back and forth. So im pretty sure its undrivable. This swap has done nothing but give me problems.

I also found something weird. If i put my finger on the #1 spark plug boot, i can feel clicking.

I checked all grounds, they seem to be good. I tried emptying all my coolant out and putting new stuff in.

Earlier in the week when i could drive my car, the car would idle real weird, it would be @ 2000 rpms and then bounce up and down. I had to unplug the Evap purge solenoid to drive the car or else it would make my car sputter like its doing now. It was driveable but just didnt idle right, so i checked my ecu wiring on the iacv. and accidently moved pin a14 to a12[where i found vtec cars are at]. Tried running the car and then swapped it back. Im guessing in doing so i blew the iacv. Because now its acting different.

So me thinking i got air into the system, drained all the coolant and then refilled it.

and now its just idling at 2000 rpms and varying in rpms by like 100 rpms. its stil bouncy but its a faster idle meaning it goes from like 2000-1900-2000-1900-2000-1900rpms real quick

Can anyone save me?

btw the car is a obd2a civic dx with a d16y7

ok so i just tried to switch the map and the tps, and when i give it gas the car goes silent and will die. So thanks for pming me that idea, but it didnt work
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checking the IACV
start the car,and hold the idle to around 3k until the fan come on, disconnect the IACV and your Idle should drop dramatically

checking the IACV plug

to check you IACV, turn the key to the on position, unplug the IACV. check the voltage in the plug. the yellow/black wire should read battery voltage if the wiring is good. If no voltage is present you have a open circuit in that wire to your main relay

also check the resistance on the IACV it should be between 8-15 ohms

as far as your o2 goes, cold voltage (open loop) .1-.2v
when its warmed up it should fluctuate between .1 - .9v (open loop)
 
i changed the map sensor with one that is good off of a y7. I checked the vac lines and they all look good. Ill be ordering the IACV and hopefully that will fix this problem
 
if the y7 is anything like the y8, the iacv's are different between the engines that were manual, and the engines that came with auto trannys.
 
ok so check this out. I plugged the hole for the iacv and the rpms dropped from 1600's [where they are at now which i thought was weird...but anyway...] the car dropped idle like mad crazy. sounded a little too low, but i couldnt look inside my car to see what they were at.

so then i covered the throttle body completly with my hand, and the car sounded like it went silent for a split second but then idled even lower then plugging the iacv hole. well it sounded like it did. So that says i have a vac leak somewhere then?

So after i replace this iacv, i should be able to find the vac leak real easy right?

im going to go check and make sure i put the gasket on my iacv when i removed it and reinstalled it right now
 
Yeah that sounds like a vacuum leak to me, but that may not be the only cause for your problems, that would just make it idle high, not stall and throw codes.
 
Just for shits and giggles, pull all of your spark plugs. Then check your injectors.

After you're sure you're getting spark and fuel, then lets move onto the IACV.
 
If the idle is behaving the way he describes, that shouldn't be nessesary. Most auto IACs are different from manuals. Regardless if its the main problem or not, you will need the proper one anyways. I say get one for manual and install, then go from there. And make sure the coolant is full. Sounds as if your original Iac is stuck open. They have been known to come loose internally and also melt when overheated. Since the ecu is throwing a code, its possible it might have an open circuit as well and be unable to control it. You took the intake tube off and put your finger over the iac port and idle dropped a lot right? Thats it
 
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