Recent content by DarkElfTRP

Well I think i am going to go with 2.25 to 2.5 inch pipe all the way back to the muffler then get a nice aftermarket one, not to sure which one to get I could just gut the stock one use it as a cover hehe.. Going to need to look into rubber as well, it close to winter now so I am not going to...

I can only speak for myself, I have been VERY happy with my B16A, car pulls hard and it was a fair easy swap, hardest part was getting all the wires right, the rest was just a drop in. Your target car is the same as mine, I will be happy to give you any info I have if you go with the B16A swap...

I got my B16 from JSA motors, and got a hell of a deal on it, paid for ODB1 and ended up with ODB2 with a P30 ECU, I am a happy camper. Engine pulls hard, it did come with a bad MAP and TPS but from what i have been reading alot of them come that way.

B16A would drop right in with a bit of work on the wiring, stock the engine puts out 170HP Which ever way you go make sure you find out, what the engine came out of, will make it alot easier when you need to get parts for it. (head gasket, intake gasket, water pump and timing belt are a few...

I have a 93 DX Hatch, with a B16A swap, I have rigged up my stock exhaust to work with it, ripped the cat converted out and replaced it with a nice tube ;) What I want to know, is can I get some type of aftermarket exhaust but keep it looking stock, I want to make a sleeper here. And I dont...

Anyone have any insite on how to fix this? I know it stands for: Electrical Load Detector defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor But where is it?

Just got back from the garage where I had my swap done, booked up an appointment to have the codes fixed, it was there first Honda Swap so they are going to give me free labour to fix up the codes which is kinda kewl. (side note I drove the car with the CEL from the shop, they needed the space...

Codes are: 20, 21, 22,23 any help would be great... I know 21 - 23 are dealing with vtec not to sure about the 20 though

been out of town, so have not had a chance to look into the CEL, if it is my IAT, what would be the best course of action to get this fixed

humm okay was reading what eg6sir said to read and looked at my car, I can see the the blue connectors one with 3 wires one with 2 wires, however, the black wire is on the connector with 3 pins and the brown is on the one with 2 pins, do i short those 2 out or do I just do short out the 2 pin...

well I went with the B16A into my 93 DX hatch, and I am a happy mofo, spent around 3000 CDN on the engine, and man does it go. The sound alone when it kicks into vtec was worth it all.. Plus the look on people when it kicks in is PRICELESS!!!

Well I found out today I have a P30 ECU, dropped my cell phone and said wtf while I am down here let me look.. Now for the stupid question, how to do I check for the codes, I know I need to look for a light but I cannot see where on the ECU it is.

Quick question since I have not had enough time to look under the dash with work and all, will and ODB2 engine work with a stock ODB1 ECU? Casue I think that is what I have.. PS: Starting to think I am going to keep the car stock looking, took out a Jetta yesterday, he did not know to shit or...

well did some reading up and it looks like my engine came out of this: 6G ’96-’00 Civic SiR II Japan EK B16A 1595 10.4:1 168hp@7800 116lb-ft@7300 so with that settled, looks like I need to get a ODB2 to ODB1 harness and go from there. Until then I am going to be getting codes that will...

Unsure which ECU i am running to be honest All i can vouch for is how hard it pulls, even if its a pain in the ass to shift into 5th the Check Engine lite comes on about 5 secs after I start the car. Guys at the shop say its casue the car is OBD1 and the Engine is ODB2 One thing though, it...