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take it apart and clean everything. reassemble everything and check for leaks while the car is running. a lift will help a lot since you can spin the motor at higher than idle rpms/higher oil press while looking for the leak.

right, use a thin cutoff wheel to cut the hose. wrap the hose with tape before you cut it though. after that, take off the tape and insert the hose into the red part of the fitting. i usually slip it in and then set the fitting on a piece of wood and shove the hose in. push in up to the base of...

never had a problem with any of mine :D

a bone stock bottom end DET can make over 500whp with cams, head studs, good tuning, and a good kit. if you want to build your own turbo motor, then you could also buy a RWD NA SR20DE (no T), they are cheap. upgrade the rods/pistons/cams and you will make power. oh, and the SR can make as much...

if you run an electric oil press, make sure you do not mount the sender on the block with a "T". mount it on the firewall or somewhere else. as far as gauge selection goes....in my own car, i glance at a boost and wideband when im running it. i rely on my EMS to prevent engine damage from...

nice :sleep: (er) :D

what EMS? if you can idle/control large injectors, run them. imo, i dont believe the fuel system should be the limiting factor when it comes to making power ;)

try the manifold on the head after those tabs are removed...it should seal perfectly :) . if for some reason it does not, then check it on a perfectly flat surface such as a granite surface at a machine shop. it is a lot easier to check it this way than with a regular square. let us know what...

was the head flange hitting the 2 tabs on the block between 1&2 and 3&4?