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well that's pointless... might as well go for the right way than the cheap way.

Wouldn't chipping the PR4 and getting more agressive fuel curve be equal to a b16 ecu?

Would running w/ PR4 any faster or slower than running PW0/PR3? Or are we looking at the same #'s either way??

I met this guy that has a 91 hatchback, he's running a b16a with a PR4 obd-0 chipped ecu, he has a msd box w/ rpm pill to activate his vtec. Is that set up any good? What would be the difference between that setup and a PW0 or PR3 ecu?

they are both stock engines,

That makes sense but what i don't understand then is this, i have two of my friends with hatchbacks eg's, both b16a2 and bone stock. One of them has his ecu chipped where he redlines it to almost 9 grand ( i know that's nuts ) and always spanks the other eg because he had to shift before...

so what you guys saying is that b16s are better off shifting at 7600rpm??

so is the obd0 harness only plug n play in obd0 car?

so how would this work, say you put a b18b engine in the ef... now do you use the LS engine harness and plug it to the EF wiring harness? i don't know much bout the wiring, thanks for explainin'.

so some of you guys say it's better to stick w/ a obd0 ls motor for the ef. what would be the bads if a obd2 ls motor was in? what else would it need?

On a 94 honda accord, is there a ground that goes on the thermostat? and also would the engine start if there is no coolant at all?

i know the key is to try and try and try, but i don't have much time to work on my car and my girl always be tripping bout it, so i tought i would ask and see all the things that could be wrong and then go for it.

i just changed the belt on an accord, now when i try to crank the engine it cranks real slow. and no it's not the battery. the engine is set to tdc but i noticed that the balance shaft pulleys are not lined up where they should be. could that be the problem?

I have an accord but the engine died on me, i tried to check out the spark plugs and there was oil all up in the spark plug holes. any idea why?

that's all i needed to know, thanks yall.

all i've seen: S1/YS1/A1 USDM B18A YS1 USDM B17A1 now does this mean a b18a could be a YS1?

How can i tell if a tranny off a DA is from a b17 or b18a??

thanks for the info guys, im goin to work on it tonight. as for the pully bolt, it wasn't hard at all. from what i heard it is the bolt from HELL!!! but i unscrewed it like it was nothing... maybe the previous owner changed the timing belt because the belt looked pretty new.

^^

i didn't loosen up the bolt, it was already loose. using a chain wrench to rotate the pulley sounds about right. the thing is that one of my piston is just stuck/broke or something and looks like it doesn't let me rotate the crank. if i just pull the head off, how do i adjust the cams to shows...