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That may actually be a possibility i will check on that tomorrow, thanks.

I did not do a full motor swap. I reused the head and certain components that i needed from the old block. The clutch barely had any wear on it so it would have been pointless buying a brand new clutch.

I did in fact have the tranny on a jack while i dropped the block. I just removed some of the bolts that mounted the fluid line to allow for some slack.The pedal feels as firm as it did before I beagan with little slack and the fork assembly has no play in it.

its a hydro sytem and I never took off any part of the line so there was no fluid loss at all.

I just finished changing the block on my 00 civic ex with manual tranny. After I put everything together, came to find that the tranny won’t shift into any gears. I did some diagnostics and found that it was either the pressure plate to tight or the throw out bearing was dislodged and not...

You need to do a compression test first before you start pulling anything. Check to see that the compression in the suspect cylinder is consistent with the others. if it is not the case then put a couple of drops of oil in that cylinder and see if the compression dramatically improves. if so...

This is very important. I remember when I had my civic ex and I disconnected the power steering and took off all the hardware and the wheel kept locking up when I took out for a test drive because all the fluid ran out of it.

Well I was not trying to ridicule you in any way, just offering up a suggestion. The ls/vtec motor is a viable option here and you that way you can keep the valve cover and make more power while at it. And by the way I'm not a newbie here I just could not recover my old login information...

If you want to get rid of all that hardware, you can always opt for a power steering removal kit from stealthmodeperformance.com. They go for 90 bucks. Or you can make them on your on. I will be attempting to do so and will try to post my progress.

Very true indeed! However, there is a way you can do all this. Simply find a b16 or b18c, c1, c5 head and hopefully it comes with that delectable valve cover that you so covet and make yourself a kick ass ls/vtec motor that will conquer all.

In that case, when you get there besure to read the computer for any cels. Eventhough the check engine light is off, it will stor the old cels. So read them and find out what it is. As far as you ignition is concerned, your computer runs the ignition and if there is any problems, it will usually...

I would explain it to you but I'm afraid you will not get the whole picture but I will try my best. However, If you plan on keeping the car a while, it will be wise to invest in a haynes, chilton, or a repair manual those books will help you very much as a newbie. I am not sure exactly what...

why dont you try reading the codes manually. That is probably your problem

is it running hot, any cels, perhaps a timing issue, or try adjusting the idle.

Ok we all agree that it is not running rich, at least not enough to smoke. Now I ran the engine again and it smoked worse when I went past about 6k rpm. Before 5k there is really no smoke. Does that mean anything. When I removed the head, I observed no crack however, I did not check for...

Anyone?

Yes I had the problem before I changed the gasket and I did not change it because it was blown. i just figured that I ought to use a new gasket since the old one has already been compressed.

I have a 95 integra ls with the stock engine with headers, and no intake, I just did a port poloish on the head along with a new head gasket but the problem below started before the port polish. The problem is that I keep getting white smoke from the tailpipe when i rev the engine past about...

thanks a lot, you have been a big help.

test the wiring not just the ground but the one that goes to the computer also.