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Thanks, I am located in western Nebraska.

Since I haven't been to successful selling my car as a whole, I am considering selling my powertrain. I am asking $4000 for everything, it includes: 1997 B18c (JDM SIR-G) swap. Factory LSD tranny, Type R Valve cover ACT HDSS clutch ACT Prolite flywheel, NGK Spark Plug Wires, Comptech...

I am selling the wheels and tires off my Civic. They are white Volk Te-37s. They are a 4x100 lug pattern. They are 15X6.5" with a 39 offset. They come with Ray's blue valve stems ($60 new). They will come with Kumho 712 tires in a P205/50-15 with about 35% tread. The tires have been wearing...

The engine bay is identical to a 92-95 Civic besides the fact that the sol has a different shift linkage (longer) Suspension parts are interchangable with the 5th gen and 94-01 Integras. Exhaust is different than a hatch or a coupe and only a few companies make a prefab catback for the car.

I do believe using a Y8 headgasket yields the highest c/r.

I would just get the del sol bracket and bolt your d series a/c to it. Try www.hondaautomotiveparts.com for it.

I would say, about 170-175 hp would be about right. 210 hp N/A takes a lot more cam and compression.

I am not saying you need an ignition, but to answer the origional question, just buy the proper "pill" from msd to set your rev limit. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...&N=110%20301123

If you want all amber, I would do Nakamichi, an old ass Pioneer or an OEM Prelude deck. Most other decks will only let you change the buttons to amber, but the display will still be blue, green or some other color besides amber.

I haven't read all of the pages here, but if it is itermittant, I would first replace the fuse with a self resetting curcuit breaker. I would then replace the plug on the fender that distributes the ignition feed throughout the motor with a individually fused type of distribution. This way you...

The part you had to grind on is just webbing to the block. With most of the turbo manifolds out there, you have to cut a good part of that piece off. Here is a pic describing which piece I am talking about just so there is no confusion on what to cut on the block. pic of what to cut Also...

Well, it isn't 100 percent that all 92's are prewired for vtec. If it is it would still only be prewired from the ecu to the strut tower and would have to be wired to the engine from there. First thing is to see if the ecu has wires from the vtec pin as well as for the pressure switch.

I wouldn't mind one for my Ranger, but my account at work has enough charged on it already.

What was it?

The Sol does take a different linkage than a Civic or Integra. The mounts, ecu, harnesses, and axles will be the same like most everyone knows.

With a digital voltmeter.

The main purpose of the intermediate shaft is to reduce the torsional twist of the driver's axle reducing torque steer that most fwd transaxles are know for due to different axle lengths.

I have installed for friends and also have on my own car the ACT HDSS and I love it. It grabs hard as hell and still engages smooth. For a clutch, I have had good luck with both Fidanza and ACT flywheels. Both chromoly and aluminum have their ups and downs, but you will be happy either way.

First off, check fuses under the dash and under the hood. Secondly, you can test the wires coming from the ignition switch with a multimeter. Ignition is a black wire with a yellow stripe. The starter signal is a black wire with a white stripe. The yellow wire is the heater and a/c accessory...

To me it has always been pop. When we were in Cali last year, I asked to upgrade my pop to a shake at In n out and the guy looked at me like I was talking some strange language until I finally stated that I meant soda.