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Most likely it going to be the rear main seal... it only cost around $10 just about anywhere but u have to pull down the tranny to change it and that could be alot of labor $ if u dont know how to do it ur self!!!

Yo i think u should do a few runs without the nos man... make sure u get the feel for the track first before using nos... also make sure ur on top of those RTs (reaction time). that will make u or brake u.... when u seen that third yellow light u go... dont look at the guy next to u dont look at...

Ok guys i found the problem. it ended up being those cheap ass cam gears that i bought on ebay... they r vision motorworks just to let u guys know dont ever buy that shit!!! the markings on it were 1 teeth off wich is about 10 degrees +/- . anyways i got a pair of AEM true time cam gears... so i...

Yeah guys.. Im using an itr oil pump and gsr 22 teeth water pump along with gsr t-belt... Im also using itr cams... the markings on the cams and crank r on tdc... dont know wats going on I havent use a timing gun but i think the problem might be with the cam gears i used... they r some cheap...

Anyone?

Wat up guys, need a little help here!!!! I have an ls/vtec motor that i just cant get the timing correctly....it's a b18b block and a gsr head...im using a gsr water pump and t-belt, type r oil pump, and adjustible cam gears set at 0 degrees... the motor is at TDC and all the markings on the...

im glad i live in Florida there r no ispections down here... good luck suddog i guess ur gonna have change the oil pump and get a CKF!!!

cool man u got it at a good price... let me know how the swap goes!!!

in my opinion the best thing to do is get a obd2-obd1 conversion wire harness wich is around $100... get a obd1 p75 ecu wich dont need crank sensors and go for around $100+/- and is better for tuning in case u gonna start doing ugrades to the engine... u could change the oil pump to fit a CKF...

if ur going to swap ur engine dont get a b20 stick to the b18.. they r much better engines and u could get them at ur local junk yard for about 400-800 bucks depending on year and mileage!!!

it should idle at 1500rpm when cold and then go down to 900rpm when warm!!!

I agree with 93civicracer.. try replacing the FITV with a good one... maybe one ur boys could lend u one to check... also try adjusting the idle screw on the TB.. there might be too much air going into the TB and that could be why its idling at 2500rpm... it shouldt idle that high even when is...

Dude if there is smoke coming out the exhaust.. unless its black in wich case it means the engine is running rich... then mos def there is somothing wrong internally... check the compression, if its off by a lot then u need to take the engine apart, replace piston rings send the head to a...

dude ur right u need a special tool to check the pressure on those cars.. i forgot... and u can only get it with snap-on, mac, and matco tools or a special tools place... but i got good news, i found out that car has a recall 4 the same reasons u r having problems with... it seems like the fuel...

Yo 90DAteg is there blueish smoke coming out the exhaust??? if yes then u have a problem with eather the piston rings or the valve stem seals...eather way they r both expensive to fix...if no smoke is coming out the exhaust then just get a valve cover kit and that should do it... also u might...

if u say the compression is good, the oil and coolant look in good shape... then the only other place oil could be leaking into the chamber is through the valve stem seals... u need to replace them but i dont recomend doing it your self if u dont have the right tools... take it to a shop so they...

I agree get a valve cover kit first to make sure there is no oil leaking into the plugs.

is there any CEL?

no dude it is way too much work wat ur tying to do.. u have to change a lot of sensors and a lot of wires.. ur better of just getting a obd0-obd1 wire harness.

it is the only screw that u could stick in a flat head screw driver. it is big and should be around the top or side of TB