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1991 Crx Si B16a2 (second gen) swap questions

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by CRXSI91, Sep 11, 2004.

  1. CRXSI91

    CRXSI91 Senior Member

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    Ok,im brand new to this site,im brand new to the b series swap,because i just bought my crx two weeks ago. cus three weeks ago someone hit my other car from behind,the insurance company totaled it out,and gave me 2000 dollars for it...so i plan on taking that money to buy a B16A2 second gen motor..so i have a few questions.


    now i know,that first things first,i have to order the motor,and pay for shipping,but after that...

    1.i dont get the whole OBD 0, OBD 1,and OBD 2 thing...can someone explain to me,which one my car is,and which one the b16 is,and what do i have to do to make sure everything works ok?

    2.Engine mounts...from what ive been told..the b16a2 is a direct bolt in to my car...but i see engine mounts being sold online all over the place...will i need to buy engine mounts for the motor?

    3.Cable transmission to Hydraulic transmission conversion...i understand that it has to be converted,u cant just swap trannies..but where can i find a conversion kit at,and how much is it? i looked on hasport,but couldnt find it...


    i mean ive done as much research as i could without asking for help,but i had to break down and ask..i know these questions are 50 years old,but currently i am out of a vehicle,and plan on having this swap done by the end of this month..so i need all the help i can get....also...if i left anything out that is of great importance..please someone let me know...thank you.
     
  2. CRXSI91

    CRXSI91 Senior Member

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    ok,i did some more research,and found out,that for my 1991 crx si,i will need the following,for the motor to be dropped into my car :

    1. Motor mounts
    2. Axles
    3. Spare wire for VTEC, o2, and knock sensors
    4. Conversion harness for OBD 0 to OBD 1
    5. conversion kit for cable clutch/tranny to Hydraulic Clutch/tranny

    from what ive seen,all of that is essential...


    are there ANY other things i MUST have before i attempt to drop the motor in my car? thank you.
     
  3. mellowboy

    mellowboy Senior Member

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  4. wiredjosh

    wiredjosh Member

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    I've done this swap several times, and here is what I recommend. I would dispense with the 2nd gen B16A, and look at the first gen. You'll still need the mounts, but you won't need to spend the extra money on the cable to hydro conversion and the obd0-obd1 conversion, since the 1st gen B16A is obd0 like your car is. The only thing that you have to do with the obd0 ECU (labelled PR3) is get a second o2 sensor port welded onto your exhaust manifold somewhere. It reads exactly the same as the 1st one, they just decided to put 2 of them on the JDM motor. Other than wiring up the VTEC, it's all plug and play. I can get you a complete B16A setup, including motor/trans/ecu/axles/mounts for only $1700 shipped to your door, including a 30 day warranty on the engine.

    Don't be deceived into thinking that that's all you'll need and you'll be ready to throw the sucker in and drive it. You'll still need a bunch of stuff, some of which you can get away without buying, but all of which ought to be replaced on the engine. The bare minimum list is this:
    -Timing belt (out of a 95 Del Sol DOHC VTEC)
    -Water pump (same car)
    -Upper radiator hose (1990-93 integra)
    -Dist cap (1990-91 Civic Si)
    -Dist rotor (same)
    -Spark plugs (1995 del sol above)
    -Plug wires (same)
    -Clutch (1990-1993 integra... You can keep the original but I would never recommend it... )
    -B-series shift linkage (you can get them for about $100 on ebay, decent quality)
    -Oil, Coolant, Manual trans fluid
    -Rear trans bracket from 1990-1993 integra
    -B-series Header (most dont come with a complete exhaust manifold, but I have a JDM B16 complete I'll sell you...)

    You need to plan on spending at least another few hundred $$ on misc. parts after you get the motor shipped in.

    The you get to the installation. There are a few things you'll need to remember. First, don't tighten any mount bolts until they are all threaded loosely, then start with the L-bracket (rear trans mount) and then tighten up the others once that's tight. Otherwise, you'll fight it for hours trying to get the mounts to line up. Second, don't get a 4-1 header. You need a 4-2-1 because of how close the b16 sits to the front crossmember. Even with the 4-2-1, you may need to grind away a bit of the crossmember to get clearance, depending on what mounts you use. You will most likely need to cut off the the front mount bracket off the crossmember, since it's not used with most kits, and will cause you all sorts of headache when installing the motor. When you're dropping the engine in, it's very tight and cramped in that engine bay, so be sure you have the harness and the intermediate shaft on the motor before you start lowering it in, and leave off the crank pulley until very last.

    Also, you'll have to tilt the engine so that the trans is pointing somewhat down in order to get it to clear. It's a very tight fit, and lots of guys get out a hammer and pound away at the frame walls to gain some extra room. However, I don't like the idea, and just spend a little more effort getting it in there.

    If you have any questions, please email me and I'd be more than happy to help with the swap.
     
  5. wiredjosh

    wiredjosh Member

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    Did you ever reach a decision on this? Just curious.
     
  6. CRXSI91

    CRXSI91 Senior Member

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    yea,i decided to go with the b16a1...and i emailed you,asking about what u could help me with,and u never emailed me back
     
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