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1995 2WD Blazer Bag Walk through

Discussion in 'Other Vehicle Discussions' started by reckedracing, May 11, 2006.

  1. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    anyone know a good write-up? or a lead to finding a good write up
    i'm pretty sure i know who will respond first... :ph34r:
     
  2. TurboMirage

    TurboMirage YEEAAAHHH VIP

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    im not noah :)

    bag it and tag it, boys.
     
  3. BodyDroppedNikes

    BodyDroppedNikes ...PENDEJO.... VIP

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    you talking about putting air ride on it?? if so, how fast do you want it to lift and drop, how much you looking to spend and are you afraid to cut your truck? cause you gonna have to cut it up to lay it out. lemme know what you wanna do and i can help.

    :)
     
  4. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    ok...
    we've already got a bag kit that was acquired through a trade
    and its a budget sort of project

    i was just wondering how extensive the rear needs to be cut to be able to lay frame

    we've got 2 compressors, 2 bags, 10 switch box, 4 link, 4 bags, etc

    i think its the airbagit.com or chassis tech 4-3-position FBSS Aplo valves
     
  5. BodyDroppedNikes

    BodyDroppedNikes ...PENDEJO.... VIP

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    ok you want it to lay out. first off id suggest lowering it with lowering blocks and spindles. you can get 3" lowering blocks from Auto Zone or Advanced Auto for $30. the lowering spindles you can get from GodFatherCustoms.com or some place like that.

    if you want the rear to lay, you are going to need to notch it. you can either buy pre-made and weld it together or you can fab your own. id just buy one as it will save time. you will also need a bridge kit (2 bars that goes between the notches to strengthen the rear end up), and upper and lower bag brackets. a good place to get this stuff from is SuicideDoors.com. they are the best place to get stuff from as they minitrucker owned and operated. they are very helpful and can help you with your parts. its where i got most of my stuff from.

    heres a list of stuff you will need (minus what you have already):
    -water trap
    -pressure switch
    -2 dual gauge needles
    -1 single gauge needle
    -50ft 1/4" air line (for gauges)
    -50ft 1/2" line (for bags)
    -4 more valves (honestly i would ditch the valves you got and get either Parker or SMC valves...need 8 valves total)
    -9 port air tank (4 port will be fine as well)
    -various air line fittings

    thats pretty much it. im sure im missing some stuff but that should help you out some. now since you have a Blazer, its not going to be hard to bag since they make a crap ton of stuff for them so finding parts will be easy. a good forum to ask about S-10/Blazer lowering stuff is s10forums.com. i can answer just about any questions you got.
     
  6. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    i think the truck already has a 6/5 drop in it, or maybe 5/5, either way its already been dropped

    and i guess what i'm specifically looking for would be pictures of the C-notch install, and pics of the 4 link setup, specifically mounting locations

    the frame is currently approx 5.5 inches from the ground
    its got 20's and it seems the wheel wells have enough room to drop the frame, i'm just looking for more info on how to do the notches and where to mount the 4 link...

    i have heard that you need to hack the whole rear of the blazer, but some people are only using little notches in the frame...
     
  7. BodyDroppedNikes

    BodyDroppedNikes ...PENDEJO.... VIP

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    there is a bolt-in c-notch made for S-10/Blazers but they are kinda small. i have an 8" step notch in mine. heres some pics to show you of what the process kinda looks like:

    testing location:
    [​IMG]

    this pic is after the notches were welded in. you can see one side where the frame is cut and the other side is still there to show how much you cut out(other side got cut out):
    [​IMG]

    cutting the frame using a sawzall:
    [​IMG]

    finished notches with hole cut in bed (yes you will have to cut a hole in yours as well. you can build a notch cover when you are done:
    [​IMG]

    not a good pic but you can see the bridge bar(s) that are used to bring the frame in tighter:
    [​IMG]

    that will hopefully help you out some as to whats going to need to be done. you CAN notch the truck before you bag it, that will bring the rear down more.
     
  8. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    do you have a 4 link?

    i understand about notching a truck bed, but a blazer is a little diffrent no?
    i kinda figured the rear area would need to be cut, i just don't want to get into cutting the wheel well by the rear doors...
     
  9. BodyDroppedNikes

    BodyDroppedNikes ...PENDEJO.... VIP

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    no im not 4-linked. im running a monoleaf right now. a 4-link is in the future for my truck but im kinda broke at the moment.

    as far as cutting, its going to be the same as it is on a pickup bed pretty much for your Blazer. you are going to have to cut the fenderwells on the inside of the truck so your 20s will fit/tuck. some people take boat trailer fenders and weld them in for wheel covers on the inside of the bed/suv truck. as i said, after you cut and everything looks good, you can build a notch cover (add a hinge to it in case you have to do any maintenance work to your air lines in case) that covers everything up so you dont have 2 big notches sticking up through the floor of your Blazer.

    and as we say in the minitruck world: dont be a pansy, cut yo' shit up!
    another saying: cut+weld=custom
     
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