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Actual Obdii Wiring Guide?

Discussion in 'ECU's, Electronics, and Tuning' started by TrboAnt, Apr 17, 2003.

  1. TrboAnt

    TrboAnt Junior Member

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    Ok, check this out:

    Bascially I wannna know where I can get ahold of the actual GUIDE showing me what each wire on an OBDII harness
    does; Where it goes, etc.. etc..

    I ask b/c I have a 2000 Civic H.Back that is running in Closed loop-mode.

    I read in the other "ECU's / Electronics" Forum that the only difference between an OBDI and an OBDII is a second O2
    after the cat. Is this true?

    I'm using the standard 2.25" exhaust line, which is cat-free; so it's sending a Bank2 code (If I remember, correctly) to the ECU, closing the loop and running me richer than a prostitute with a solid gold... oh, nevermind. You get the point.

    Where can I look to get the Guide, to bypass this wire?

    I know, I know... Everyone keeps telling me to get an OBDI conversion. I just don't wanna hafta work my other block around this problem.


    When it comes to the internals of combustion, I'm rock; but when it comes to the Ecu, I suck; Go figure, considering I build Websites, and program computers. :blink:

    'Preesh!

    Ant
     
  2. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    you don't have to work shit.
    get an obd1 p30, or a chipped p28, and a conversion harness.
    all the rest of your stuff will work fine
     
  3. solblu

    solblu Senior Member

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    Helms manuals have a wiring diagram with all you would need. I have a how to for making a conversion harness on my site.
     
  4. spltimg

    spltimg Junior Member

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    There are more differences than just the extra O2 sensor. There is also a sensor in the crank case, it is part of the water pump assebly. The tech name for it is the "Crank Fluttering" sensor or something. The other difference is in the Distributors. I Believe that the OBD1 has three sensors, and the OBD2 has two sensors. Another words you can guess that the crank fluter sensor is the missing link and there might be a way to re-wire to trick the ECU's. The one aspect I have been told that is still foggy about OBD is that there is acutally OBD2-A And OBD2-B the OBD2-A is found in the 96-98 motors and JDM motors. While the OBD2-B is found in the 99-01 Motors. From what I was told there is know difference except that there harnesses have different pin outs. Your best bet it to either by and OBD1 ECU with the appropriate harness from HASport or Skunk, this could be pricey. or try and find and OBD2 motor, the acura tech told me that if you Find and OBD2 motor form a 96-98 A 99-01 ECU will work in place of the old ECU that way you don't even have to worry about the PIN OUT differences. Now like I said the last part of that is all hear-say and I will be able to tell you excactly what the diff is with in the next month.

    Anyways I believe that is correct if anyone wants to fix it drop another post and tell me what I said wrong. Hope that helps man.....
     
  5. noobvang

    noobvang Senior Member

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    The only other way that I can think of how to bypass the second o2 is to use and o2 simulator. The sim is to be used only on the second o2 (after cat). You must retain the first o2. Not sure were you can get one but try ebay. The difference in OBD1 and OBD2 is that it has 2 o2 sensors and a "Crank Flux Sensor" to measure crank rotational speed. The crank flux sensor is used to monitor if the engine has missfired or is missfiring. I'm acutualy running w/out this sensor. No real problems exept the check engine light and a few missfire when idling.
     
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