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arp bolts

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by cointelpro, Nov 27, 2003.

  1. cointelpro

    cointelpro Senior Member

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    well? why does everyone always use arp bolts, what makes them so good, and how expensive are they average for some head bolts? some guy told me around 200 bucks for a set of head bolts, but thats re-fucking-diculous. 200 bucks for bolts, they better come with my choice of redhead blonde or brunett.
  2. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    From what I've read.... for head bolts or studs an ARP unit is threaded on both ends one end is threaded down into the block and tightened, then when you set the head on the block you then bolt it onto the block with the nuts. this is double clamping force on the head which minimizes the chance of headgasket blowing. also the OEM head bolts strecht where asa the ARPs.
    If this makes no sense, I'm sorry. Im half asleep, trying to make it 24 hours with no sleep. Almost there
  3. knowledge

    knowledge Senior Member

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    You are correct! Better clamping force, also OEM bolts put the stress at one point of the bolt. ARP studs distribute the stress more evenly throughout the stud. This gives less of a chance of the stud snapping. Also the type of metal they use is alot stronger vs the OEM bolts. No breaking, and no streching. I forget what mag. it was that I read awhile ago but they had an MR2 with a V6 Lexus engine in it that was turboed, and supercharged. It had sooo much pressure in the cyl. that the head was actually popping off of the block everytime they got on the throttle. Now that is some serious streching of head bolts! They swapped them out with ARP 's and had no more problems.
  4. pills_PMD

    pills_PMD Super Moderator

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    200 is recockulous... i think i paid 170 for my lsvtec oil feed kit, arp rod bolts and arp head studs...

    plus if you plan on taking the head off frequently they are great
  5. ek9r

    ek9r Senior Member

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    ARP head bolts can be had for about $75. who ever told you 200, should let you shove your oem bolts up their ass for that amount. they are well worth the extra $$ IMO.
  6. JDMilan

    JDMilan Senior Member

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    they are less prone to bust under heavy loads either boost or high high rpms, they are worth it in terms of cheap insurance, for under 150 its worth it.
  7. civicious

    civicious FüK-VTEC

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    and they go GREAT with a plasma booster!!!!!





    jk jk jk....better clamping force, they don't stretch, and you can list "ARP bolts" in your mods list.
  8. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    Where and which bolts are these? Rod Bolts or Head Studs? I am in the market for this as we speak. Thanks
  9. KyleCrews

    KyleCrews Senior Member

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    and were would be the best place to order them for (BEST PRICE).
  10. B16

    B16 Super Moderator

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  11. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    awesome thanks yO'
  12. KyleCrews

    KyleCrews Senior Member

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    To bad they don't have head bolt for the prelude. Any know a good site for the h22 head bolts.

    edit: never mind i was looks at rod bolts. Sorry. Thanks for the site.
  13. japspec01

    japspec01 Junior Member

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    This might seem like a dumb question. How would I go about screwing on the stud? Do you just screw it as tight as you can with pliers, then put the head on and tighten the nuts? Is there certain specifications on how tight you tighten the stud?
  14. cointelpro

    cointelpro Senior Member

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    first, thanks for all the replies!
    second, yea the guy who told me they cost so much was a not-so-trustworthy theif who was trying to sell me a set of them for 150 saying they cost 2x as much, good thing i didnt buy them
    third, i think they make a wrench thats like a mini oil filter wrench that you can use on the studs. its like a little rubber circle that tightens as you twist it. but i dont know. i was wondering the same thing.

    i need new head bolts cause i fuckin stripped mine while getting them off a week ago while tearing down my ls for a rebuild. so i think i will go with ARP head bolts based on all these good recomendations! thank you!
  15. knowledge

    knowledge Senior Member

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    To install or remove any studs, just get 2 nuts and put them on the stud. Then tighten the 2 nuts against each other on the stud(this will lock them to the stud). Then unscrew the nuts, which will unscrew the stud out of the block(or whatever you are removing the stud from). Its an old school trick! Then unscrew the nuts from one another off of the freshly removed stud. And blaaazow it's out! Do reverse for installing studs!
  16. cointelpro

    cointelpro Senior Member

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    i get it! nice job!
  17. JDMilan

    JDMilan Senior Member

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    good link b16 and your welcome...
  18. B16

    B16 Super Moderator

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    actually when installing studs you just put them in hand tight (or on ARP head studs, there is a hex at the top of the stud to use an allen wrench, but in their instructions they say just hand tight) you torque them down when torquing the nuts. for removing them, seems like knowledges way would work, never tried it like that, but makes sense :). but they do make a tool for removing them also.
  19. hybrid89

    hybrid89 thistownsucks...

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    You should look at AEBS bolts. They are larger in diameter than ARP by a good ammount. Check a set out. The run about the same price as ARP. Just another option
  20. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin

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    Studs > Bolts by design... think about it- the stress on a bolt is on the head, and you can't manufacture one to be as strong as a stud using the same process. A stud can be rolled and threaded, but a bolt has to have a head added on top. With the stud, you have uniform strength through the entire length of the fastener, and the stress is on the threads (where it's supposed to be). With a bolt, all you have to do is break off the head and you're done.

    Just another reason why studs are better... one that not too many people talk about.

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