Auto to Manual Conversion
- Thread starter Big Shane
- Start date
- Replies 2
- Views 24K
We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms
manual ecu
manual cluster (optional, gets rid of the D-P-123 nonsense)
shifter / shift boot / shift knob
shit linkage + stabilizer bar
complete clutch (you have, but don't forget the pressure plate and flywheel)
interior trim pieces
tranny mount for the manual (auto is different)
mount bolts (manual are longer, can't re-use auto bolts)
axels
pedal assembly including pedal switches and plug ends (start the car needs clutch in sensor, etc)
hydrolic clutch hardlines
clucth master cyl & reservoir
clueth slave cyl (if not on tranny)
VSS (if not on tranny)
On the shifter for the auto transmission, you will see a 14-wire plug. Cut the plug from the auto shifter assembly, and leave about 5 inches of wire. Looking at the plug, the positions are
(left to right)
(top row) 14,13,12,11,10,9,8 and
(bottom row) 7,6,5,4,3,2,1.
There are two heavy gauge wires (position #11 and position #12). Connect these two wires to the top sensor (clutch interlock switch) on the clutch pedal assembly. This will only allow the car to start when the clutch pedal is engaged. In other words, every time you press the clutch you will close the circuit.
The bottom switch is your cruise control disable switch. Run two wires from the switch: connect one to the position #7 (black) and the other to #13 (pink). Every time you press the clutch pedal, the cruise control will disable.
Removing the Key: On the 14-wire plug, there is a black wire you will need to connect to a green wire with a white stripe. This puts the car in "park" so you can take the key out at any time.
Reverse Lights: Sometimes with the manual ECU, this is not necessary. test first.
Look at the plug you used on the engine wiring harness to hook up to your reverse sensor on the manual transmission. Run two wires from this switch to the yellow wire and a green wire with black stripe (positions 4 and 5) at the big plug that you cut off from the auto shifter. Now your reverse lights should work.
manual cluster (optional, gets rid of the D-P-123 nonsense)
shifter / shift boot / shift knob
shit linkage + stabilizer bar
complete clutch (you have, but don't forget the pressure plate and flywheel)
interior trim pieces
tranny mount for the manual (auto is different)
mount bolts (manual are longer, can't re-use auto bolts)
axels
pedal assembly including pedal switches and plug ends (start the car needs clutch in sensor, etc)
hydrolic clutch hardlines
clucth master cyl & reservoir
clueth slave cyl (if not on tranny)
VSS (if not on tranny)
On the shifter for the auto transmission, you will see a 14-wire plug. Cut the plug from the auto shifter assembly, and leave about 5 inches of wire. Looking at the plug, the positions are
(left to right)
(top row) 14,13,12,11,10,9,8 and
(bottom row) 7,6,5,4,3,2,1.
There are two heavy gauge wires (position #11 and position #12). Connect these two wires to the top sensor (clutch interlock switch) on the clutch pedal assembly. This will only allow the car to start when the clutch pedal is engaged. In other words, every time you press the clutch you will close the circuit.
The bottom switch is your cruise control disable switch. Run two wires from the switch: connect one to the position #7 (black) and the other to #13 (pink). Every time you press the clutch pedal, the cruise control will disable.
Removing the Key: On the 14-wire plug, there is a black wire you will need to connect to a green wire with a white stripe. This puts the car in "park" so you can take the key out at any time.
Reverse Lights: Sometimes with the manual ECU, this is not necessary. test first.
Look at the plug you used on the engine wiring harness to hook up to your reverse sensor on the manual transmission. Run two wires from this switch to the yellow wire and a green wire with black stripe (positions 4 and 5) at the big plug that you cut off from the auto shifter. Now your reverse lights should work.
