b16a head on a b18b or c bottom

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i know that the b16 head flows better so i want to use it instead plus i'm going to get the head work done also. i plan on building the bottom end also before its all together. i just want to know if this is a good setup or should i just buy a b18c1 or b16a complete longblock instead?

thanks for any help
 
lol all the b series can bolt on to eachother but i was jw about teh setup.

i'm thinking i'll just buy the complete swap idk wich one yet though lol.

thanks
 
depends on how much money you got,
budget-ls turbo
mid budget-gsr
mid-high budjet-gsr/b16 head upgraded valvetrain
mid-high budjet-gsr turbo
high budget-Ls/vtec...crvtec
extremely high budget- crv/LS/vtec turbo
 
the only good thing on a gsr is the bottom end. the head is a bastard. its intake bolt pattern doesnt match shit, so it is a very undesirable head. b16 heads are only second to a type r head, and thats because the type r head is a b16 casting that has been opened up.

low budget-d16 with a junkyard turbo setup. this can be had for under $500.
mid budget-d16 thats been massaged by a machinist before a turbo setup is attached. this can be had for under $1000.
high budget-b16 with a junkyard turbo mated to a cast ex mani w/ intercooler. this can be had for $1200.
mid-high budget-same b16 that has been either massaged head wise, or the turbo was sent to be massaged. extra $500.

want a crvtec? you can buy a used b16 head for $300 with complete valve train. you can buy a complete bottom end b20 for $250. an intake manifold with tb and all sensors shouldnt run more than $200. a p30 ecu will cost under $100. or you can get the highly desirable p72 for around $150.

whatever you do, stay away from gsr heads. they are like the red headed step child of the b series engines.
 
Originally posted by simplyfast@Dec 6 2003, 04:49 PM
the only good thing on a gsr is the bottom end. the head is a bastard. its intake bolt pattern doesnt match shit, so it is a very undesirable head. b16 heads are only second to a type r head, and thats because the type r head is a b16 casting that has been opened up.

whats wrong with the GSR head? if you are gonna get a new IM wouldnt you buy it for the right head anyway? and all the good aftermarket companies that make IM's have them for the GSR as well. basing your dislike on a head based on its bolt pattern is retarded. and if you want to argue based on flow rates, ill just stop you before you start. the gsr and b16 heads are so close its not even worth arguing. the ITR head only beats them both cause its factory port n polished.

the GSR head is actually a very DESIREABLE head. it has the smallest combustion chambers of all the b series heads. smaller combustion chambers = higher compression. higher compression = more power. the head is also desireable for its cams, which are very good VTEC cams for turbo applications.

thank you.
 
y go d-series, b16 is torquelss, so b18 is the the best choice for the lowest price, vtec or non vtec, turbo or non turbo. H22 is just too much of a hassle and for the extra money youll spend isnt really worth it. As for a d series compared to a d series the extra 500 for a ls is well worth the money.
 
well based on your handle gsrcrx, ill assume you are biased when it comes to the gsr head.

did you know that gsr IM made by after market companies cost more than any other b series IM? as far as cc's go, it doesnt matter. you want to pick up compression out of your head you can do a number of things; reseat your valves and have them sit deeper in the dome, add material to the quench area, or simply mill the head. itr heads are simply b16 castings that have been opened up just slightly more than their casting counterpart. what it all comes down to is swapability. if you have an ls head, b16 head, or itr head, you can swap IM across them all. the same can not be applied to the gsr head, which is why i call it a bastard, or red headed step child head.

as far as your cam comment goes, i think you should actually research that. a gsr cam is no different than a del sol, sir, or civic si cam. the best cam honda made was the ctr cam, intake. the ctr exhaust cam is identical to the 96 itr.

92civicb181b, bring me a stock crx si, and for $300 dollars i can assemble a turbo setup for that car. bring me any d series and i can bolt on a turbo assembly for $300.
 
i think YOU should do some research, the GSR cam IS different from the B16 cams. it has shorter duration and very little overlap, which makes it a good VTEC turbo cam. and saying that the CTR is the best honda cam is a matter of point of veiw. if you are turbo, then the CTR cam would not be a good choice because of the long overlap. now if you said that the CTR cam was the best NA honda cam, then i would agree, but the GSR cams are best OEM cams for turbo.

now at the other end of the spectrum, as far as compression goes, do the same thing to both heads and the GSR head will always have the higher compression.

and you cannot swap manifolds between the LS head and the B16/ITR head. at least not without some modification. it can be done, but its not "bolt on" and does require a little bit of modification to make it work.
 
A B16 head on a GSR block is your best option. This is basically a Type-R but the head would need porting.

I love GSRs but their heads do not breath too well. The B16 head flows MUCH better than the GSR.

So when going for mad power just order a JG Engine Dynamics block and slap a B16/B18C5 head on and raise boost. :D

If you are adding a B16 head to the GSR block... you can just raise compression with the head gasket which you WILL need to replace anyhow. So it doesn't really matter about the GSR's combustion chambers.

B18C displacement + B16 flow = torque and power. I'm surprised to see in several people's signatures that they do the opposite and get the B16 block and the GSR head. Whatever works though. Peace out.
 
simplyfast, i dunno about a 300 dollar turbo setup but my point was d series are on the lowerend of the honda chain, torqueless, cheap and are do not have the potentional of any b series.

Do you work at a junkyard?
 
you wanna know a secret to gettin torque out of a d series? you simply set the crank back one tooth. once that has been done you can start in 2nd without ever revving over 1700 rpm. and no i dont work a junkyard, but i have a friend who works parts at an import parts shop and he is a whiz when swapping honda oem parts around. he has a 88 crx si with that turbo kit on it and his crx scoots like very few do.

gsrcrx, why dont you look at the specs on paper. the 98 itr has less overlap, but its still a crap cam. why do i say this? cause you dont buy hondas in the us with turbos spoolin up under the hood, thats why. they are built for n/a engines, so when i say ctr cams are the best, im right. did you know you can drop a gsr intake cam into a d16 and have a mean ass, lumpity lump cam?
 
just because they dont come stock with turbos doesnt mean shit. who says you cant build them for boost. shit, look at B's (the owner of this website) ride. built for boost and guess what cams hes using....thats right, GSR cams. but maybe he should use the ITR cams since they have less overlap <_< :bash: .

and whoever told you that you can put a GSR cam in a d16 is a moron, and i cant see how you would believe it. IT WONT WORK!
 
let me re-phrase what i wrote. a buddy had jg grind him a cam that ran the same schematics as the gsr intake. funniest thing, steph papadakis took his order...even has his name on the receipt. steph also wrote the the rpms to shift at for maximum speed.

itr cam would be better if it has less overlap. think about it, if you have a cam with a lot of overlap and your boosting, you are gonna wash your cylinder. and what purpose will that achieve? your gonna lose volume from your intake charge.
 
the ITR cam does NOT have less overlap then the GSR cam, thats what ive been saying all along.

like i said, it depends on your point of view on what cams are best when using OEM parts. if you are turbo, GSR cams are best. if you are NA, CTR cams or 01 ITR cams are best.
 
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