i just installed an obd1 b16a into my CRX. while the motor was out, i replaced the timing belt and water pump. the arrow on the oil pump lined up perfectly with the line on the crank gear while the two dots on the cam gears also lined up. i turned the engine over a few times then verified all marks were in alignment and tension was correct.
however, my problem is that the crank pulley can rotate like a quarter of an inch with the woodruff key in the slot (i also bought a new key, and still there's this slop.) my old obd0 b16a had this same issue, but i just figured it was from wear and tear. so on to the real problem...
i let the engine warm up, installed a jumper into the ecu, (which i have no check engine lights, pr3 obd1 ecu) and checked the timing, found it was 30degrees advanced. the farthest i could turn the distributor was to 20degrees advanced... that's 20degrees before top dead center. i have a craftsman advance timing light, and i know how to use it before anyone asks. with the knob set at 20degrees, it flashes right on the single white line, with it set to 0degrees, it flashes just to the left of the three timing marks on the pulley.
well the thing is, before i checked the timing, the motor pulled really strong. and once i moved it, it now feels like it's way down on power. like a 20+ hp loss. so my question is, could that slop in the pulley be causing a bad timing reading? because it should have been knocking at 30degrees of base timing, and should still pull strong at 20. but doesn't.
also, if anyone knows offhand how many degrees of timing is one tooth? is it possible that i installed the belt a tooth off of TDC? and if so, would a 30degree base timing be indicative of that?
however, my problem is that the crank pulley can rotate like a quarter of an inch with the woodruff key in the slot (i also bought a new key, and still there's this slop.) my old obd0 b16a had this same issue, but i just figured it was from wear and tear. so on to the real problem...
i let the engine warm up, installed a jumper into the ecu, (which i have no check engine lights, pr3 obd1 ecu) and checked the timing, found it was 30degrees advanced. the farthest i could turn the distributor was to 20degrees advanced... that's 20degrees before top dead center. i have a craftsman advance timing light, and i know how to use it before anyone asks. with the knob set at 20degrees, it flashes right on the single white line, with it set to 0degrees, it flashes just to the left of the three timing marks on the pulley.
well the thing is, before i checked the timing, the motor pulled really strong. and once i moved it, it now feels like it's way down on power. like a 20+ hp loss. so my question is, could that slop in the pulley be causing a bad timing reading? because it should have been knocking at 30degrees of base timing, and should still pull strong at 20. but doesn't.
also, if anyone knows offhand how many degrees of timing is one tooth? is it possible that i installed the belt a tooth off of TDC? and if so, would a 30degree base timing be indicative of that?