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b16a1 hesitation

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by HONDA_F1, Feb 15, 2005.

  1. HONDA_F1

    HONDA_F1 Member

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    ok i swaped my b16 into my da about a month ago now...and its been having one issue with the moter

    when i get on the throttle a little it will hesitate...and it push it a little bit more it will go away

    and sometimes at idle it will drop down and get rough and pop it self back up?

    is there anything i could do tune up wise to fix it or could this be some problem specialized
     
  2. brc80

    brc80 Senior Member

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    Funny mine does the same thing, im not sure what it is, ive done plugs cap & rotor.

    What ecu are you running
     
  3. HONDA_F1

    HONDA_F1 Member

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    pr3
    i have the stock jdm manifold on with the 2 o2 sensors...
     
  4. Citizen_Insane

    Citizen_Insane Senior Member

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    Mine does that too on my pw0 ecu. Its not too bad, but yes my b16 hesitates a little.
     
  5. HONDA_F1

    HONDA_F1 Member

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    what should my b16a1 idle at
    becasue i also notice that some times when i gets rough when im just idling it will pop it self back up and sometimes hold it self as high as 1100rpms..
    but it idles at 800 around i can't tell exaclty with my tach

    and sometimes it wont even pop it self back up and it will idle at just over 1000
     
  6. HONDA_F1

    HONDA_F1 Member

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    here i found this on the hondata site..
    (for pr3 and pw0 ecu's)
    Introduction

    This page deals with a problem which is increasingly common with engine swaps using early VTEC engines, with the PW0 or PR3 ECU.

    Symptoms

    Poor running at partial throttle, which the engine 'missing' and feeling 'flat'. If the throttle is opened to 25% or more the engine will run much better, but still may be down in power at full throttle.

    Diagnosis

    Unplug both oxygen sensors, and reset the ECU by removing the power in order to clear the long term closed loop mixture adjustments. The ECU will show an oxygen sensor error code but the engine should run much better.

    Explanation

    With the PW0/PR3 ECUs there are two oxygen sensors. A common problem is to wire one oxygen sensor into both pins in the ECU, or reverse the wiring of the primary and secondary oxygen sensors. In both cases the car will run badly under light throttle until sufficient load is placed on the engine for it to run out of closed loop.

    The ECU uses each oxygen sensor to tune the mixture in one pair of cylinders. Normally the ECU will slowly lean the mixture for one cylinder pair, and look for the oxygen sensor showing the mixture going lean. Once this happens the ECU will start to enrichen the mixture until the oxygen sensor shows a rich mixture. The effect of this is to swing the mixture over a narrow range close to stoichiometric, typically lambda 0.98 to 1.02, which keeps the mixture close to the ideal range for the catalytic converter. The ECU will tune each cylinder pair independently of each other.

    If the oxygen sensor wires are swapped around then the ECU will still try to see a response from each cylinder pair. The ECU will start to lean out one cylinder pair, but will look at the oxygen sensor for the other cylinder pair, so will keep leaning the mixture out. The ECU will see that the other cylinder pair is lean, so will enrichen the mixture for that cylinder pair. The effect usually is that the ECU will run one cylinder pair about 20% lean, and the other 20% rich. The result is that the engine will run flat, without much response and may miss badly. A lambda sensor placed in the exhaust after the secondary pipes join will show that the mixture is roughly correct. Once the load on the engine is increased to a point where the ECU will stop running in closed loop then the engine will run much better, but will still run one cylinder pair lean and the other rich thanks to the long term closed loop adjustment.

    Wiring one oxygen sensor into the two ECU pins will produce a similar problem, except the ECU will alternate between running each cylinder pair rich and lean.

    Correcting the problem

    If the oxygen sensors are wired into the wrong pins in the ECU the solution is to swap the wires around. On JDM cars the oxygen sensor plugs are different to prevent the sensors from being inadvertently swapped.

    If one oxygen sensor is wired into both ECU pins, then another oxygen sensor must be added, or the ECU updated so that it runs only in open loop (Hondata ROMs can be made to do this). If another oxygen sensor is added then it is important that each oxygen sensor only sees exhaust gas from one cylinder pair.
     
  7. HONDA_F1

    HONDA_F1 Member

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    problem fixed...i reversed my o2 sensor wires and the engine runs great now
    .....i don't even know why i had too i had the jdm connectors and they only fit on one way ...out of the 4 wires i added was one o2 sensor wire and it was suposed to go to the other o2 sensor i guess but i didn't relized that becaue i just used my b18a1 harness and that already had the round connector for the other o2 sensor

    so basicly the round one is in the "jdm o2 sensor" spot for the pr3 ecu now
     
  8. OkkeN

    OkkeN Junior Member

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    i'm experiencing this same problem, throwing codes on the o2 sensor and fuel supply system.
    hesitates at low rpm's, and vtec does not engage.
    Maybe i should try reversing the sensor connections? [​IMG]
     
  9. Citizen_Insane

    Citizen_Insane Senior Member

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    I'm going to try that today! I didn't even know about this (and I posted in this thread a while back). Sweet, maybe my car will start running better (although the problem isn't that bad anymore).
     
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