b18/b20 vtec

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T

twisted civic

Senior Member
I've had my b16 in my 00 hatch for like a minute and a half, and I'm already getting bored with it so........

I'm lookin into possibly building a b18/b20 vtec. I assume it has to be pre obdII so you can use tunable software, since no stock ecu would know what to do with it, what's the common set up, chipped p28?

To anyone who has built one : naturally aspirated.
how's the reliability?
what pistons did you use?
what ecu with what software?
what kind of power/torque are you seeing?
where's the new redline?
what kind of cost?
do you regret building instead of boosting ?????????????????

any other info would be appreciated.
 
Yeah thanks calesta, you're very helpful as usual!

I'm not lookin for instructions about how to build, I'm asking people with experience building frankenstein motors for their opinion and suggestions.
 
Are you being sarcastic or serious?

Reliability - as reliable as you build it.
Pistons - Endyn/Wiseco
ECU - don't remember, but it was running a Mugen program with a VAFC, then went up to Hondata S200
Power/Torque - 185/140, 185/150, 185/160 with different rods/pistons, same stock B16 head
Redline - typically set it at 8000 or 8500, depending on the power curve
Cost - $6000 the first time for the whole swap, less now (but should be more)
Regret - nah, I like all motor power curves better, especially for road course type racing / driving
 
appreciate it, I've just heard that they havn't been known to last very long, no matter how well built, I think because of the rod/stroke ratio?
I've also heard that the redline would be lower, same reason.

I thought it was a crock, considering the number of almost indestructable rods you can buy for a "B" engine.
 
Rod/stroke ratio for LS/VTEC engines is a bunch of BS. The ratio for a GSR is 1.581, and the ratio for an LS/B20 is 1.539. If you do the math, there's only a 3% difference in lateral loading between the two geometries. People's LS/VTEC setups fail because they build them wrong or cut corners.
 
Rod/stroke ratio for LS/VTEC engines is a bunch of BS. The ratio for a GSR is 1.581, and the ratio for an LS/B20 is 1.539. If you do the math, there's only a 3% difference in lateral loading between the two geometries. People's LS/VTEC setups fail because they build them wrong or cut corners.
Click to expand...


I'm a little late on the topic, but I disagree, I've seen a professionally built LS/Vtec go to hell after 30k miles. It was built correctly too, everything was new or rebuilt and was built by a well known engine builder around that area. I had every intention of building one until that. If the guys that built that particular one couldn't make it last, I knew there was no way in hell I was going to have better luck. The car wasn't abused either, it was brought to the track maybe 6 times in those 30k miles, other than that it was a daily driver and I know the owner didn't beat on it.

I'm not telling you what to do, I'm telling you what I've seen, there has been instances where they were reliable but its a needle in a haystack. You could have one that lasts like a stocker or you have one that acts on it's name..frankenstien and die on you. If you feel you could build one or have one built for you then by all means do it.

For the price it costs to do it, I feel it isn't worth it anymore, you can have a GSR bored to 2L's for less than that and I'd presume it would preform better as well.
 
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