mr.rhtuner
Junior Member
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B18a swap into 5th gen coupe
- Thread starter mr.rhtuner
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Welcome to Hondaswap!
The B18 into the EG chassis is relatively easy. You can use all OEM mounts, and you can use all the OEM wiring too. It's almost a straight drop-in replacement for the D. One of the reasons why you're probably getting such a great price on the B18A is because it's most likely a non-OBD engine. If it is, you'll have to do a bit of rewiring and part swapping to get it to run properly in your OBD1 car. You might want to check the engine and make sure its OBD revision matches your chassis- otherwise you'll have a ton of fun wiring everything up.
Good luck.
The B18 into the EG chassis is relatively easy. You can use all OEM mounts, and you can use all the OEM wiring too. It's almost a straight drop-in replacement for the D. One of the reasons why you're probably getting such a great price on the B18A is because it's most likely a non-OBD engine. If it is, you'll have to do a bit of rewiring and part swapping to get it to run properly in your OBD1 car. You might want to check the engine and make sure its OBD revision matches your chassis- otherwise you'll have a ton of fun wiring everything up.
Good luck.
mr.rhtuner
Junior Member
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OBD = On Board Diagnostics. In Honda it is a general discription of generations, and compatibility.
OBD 0 means that it was made before 92, 92-95 OBD I, 96-98 OBD IIa, 99+ OBD IIb.
Basically the plugs on the motors and ECUs changed with the generations, so staying within you OBD generation, means it's easier to swap without extra parts to make things fit.
You can look at the head on the front, under the stock heatshield above the exhaust ports on the lafthandside, and there are a series of numbers, the one on the left is the date.
OBD 0 means that it was made before 92, 92-95 OBD I, 96-98 OBD IIa, 99+ OBD IIb.
Basically the plugs on the motors and ECUs changed with the generations, so staying within you OBD generation, means it's easier to swap without extra parts to make things fit.
You can look at the head on the front, under the stock heatshield above the exhaust ports on the lafthandside, and there are a series of numbers, the one on the left is the date.
mr.rhtuner
Junior Member
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Last edited:
mr.rhtuner
Junior Member
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saturn_boy96
88 C1V1C 53D4N DR1V3R
ok, i've done this swap before and changing from obd0 to obd1 isn't that difficult. i used my stock civic harness and i only had to lengthen a couple wires for it to reach properly. but you should try to get the stock harness from the b18a motor cause it will make running the wires for the fuel rail and injectors easier.
you will also need a distributor and alternator from a 92+ integra or a 94+ dels sol VTEC. the alternator you can actually get from any b-series but to get it to be plugnplay you would need to hack the plugs.
you can take all the sensors off your d-series tb, but you will need an obd1 b-series throttle body.
i'm not sure what axles you need, i am running a hydro tranny mated to a b18a block. i'm running 99-00 civic si axles and the drivers side cv shaft seal leaks bad. i've replaced the seal 2 times and it doesn't help. i lose about a pint of tranny fluid every 200 miles. i am going to try a set of 2nd gen teg axles once i have enough money to buy them.
that's all i can think off, pm me if you need any further help.
you will also need a distributor and alternator from a 92+ integra or a 94+ dels sol VTEC. the alternator you can actually get from any b-series but to get it to be plugnplay you would need to hack the plugs.
you can take all the sensors off your d-series tb, but you will need an obd1 b-series throttle body.
i'm not sure what axles you need, i am running a hydro tranny mated to a b18a block. i'm running 99-00 civic si axles and the drivers side cv shaft seal leaks bad. i've replaced the seal 2 times and it doesn't help. i lose about a pint of tranny fluid every 200 miles. i am going to try a set of 2nd gen teg axles once i have enough money to buy them.
that's all i can think off, pm me if you need any further help.
