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B18B1 All Motor.

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by korey, Apr 4, 2004.

  1. korey

    korey Senior Member

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    Alright everyone, I am building an All motor 96 b18b1 motor for my 97 dx coupe. No ls/vtec or anything either. What I need to find out is if you all have any other ideas or thoughts on what i could do to this motor. Some guidlines, 1.-dont worry about budget, just throw down some ideas or thoughts and 2.-dont suggest i buy a different motor or car or go vtec, because I dont want to and wont do it. With that said here are my thought. Please add to the list (starting with bottom end, working to head):

    Balanced and blueprinted crank
    Z10 block girdle
    Crower bilet Rods
    11:1 comp. pistons (not sure on brand, how high can I go on Reg. unleaded gas?)
    Total Seal piston rings
    Resleeved with darton sleeves
    str block gaurd
    ARP Head studs
    All oem gaskets throughout
    street/strip port and polish
    Crower or skunk valve train
    Crower 403 cams
    Jun or Skunk cam gears
    RC injectors
    Aem fuel rail
    Skunk Intake mani
    AEM V2 CIA

    Any ideas on engine management and tranny buildups/options, please list. Sorry for the long post and thanx for all help. Sorry if I forgot anything also.
     
  2. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Transmission- GSR or Type-R.

    Engine management- Hondata or Uberdata.
     
  3. Celerity

    Celerity Well-Known Member

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    The problem you'll run into with the 11:1 compression is it's daily drivability. How much gas is in your area ? What altitude are you at ? Are you prepared to slap AVGas or Cam2 in that car ?

    In today's world, anything beyond 10:1 becomes a real problem in daily use. With gas prices soaring you'll find yourself doing $30 at the pump every other day. If it's a primarily track car, with some back and forth mileage, than it's gonna be great.

    As far as OEM gasket sets, the headgasket isn't going to like that compression, and if you're using an aftermarket oil pan they'll include the gasket you'll need.

    -> Steve
     
  4. 97hatch

    97hatch ?

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    block guard and sleved ? how do you do that?
     
  5. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    My friends and I were wondering hte same thing. To get the sleeves in, you have to get the block machined, then have then pressed in, the block guard has to also be pressed in. We were told 500 for sleeves to be put in, and about 180-200 for the block guard.
     
  6. JDMilan

    JDMilan Senior Member

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    86 the block guard idea.

    a decent header for your application, not sure since your running the ls head.

    skunk2 IM over the ls giraffe

    flywheel clutch combo

    Hondata

    and like C said,,,R tranny for sHoOo :)
     
  7. sloazcrx

    sloazcrx Senior Member

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    I ran 10.5 compression on my ls with no problem. Good clutch and Fidanza flywheel.
     
  8. korey

    korey Senior Member

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    Ok, so 86 the block gaurd idea, I wasnt sure about that anyway, someone must have given some wrong info. As for the header, would an ITR 4-1 work well or even work at all? Also, will my 11:1 comp. Ratio be a problem like previously stated? And finally, any good suggestions for a good flywheel/clutch combo and is their a specific hondata program/product I should use?
     
  9. 97CTR

    97CTR Senior Member

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    11.1 compression will be fine on 91 octane with tuning. I am running 12.1 on 93.
     
  10. korey

    korey Senior Member

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    What about the oem gaskets, -Celerity- said that the oem gaskets arent going to hold up well with 11:1 c/r. Is this true and if so, what gaskets should I use?
     
  11. JDMilan

    JDMilan Senior Member

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    hmm....I think the factory gaskets are actually pretty good, I always ran them.

    you do have the option of upgrading
     
  12. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    A factory head gasket held my 12.6:1 compression for 45k miles...
     
  13. korey

    korey Senior Member

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    Alright, I guess if there is nothing more you guys would do or change to my setup, I will start to buy and build. Thanx guys. Oh, and I will probably go with a Clutch masters Stage 2 or 3 clutch, and ACT ( i think?) 12.5 lbs flywheel, with a GSR tranny and Greddy Evo 2 exhaust. Thanks for all the help everyone.
     
  14. korey

    korey Senior Member

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    Just a quick question, which cam gears would you guys recoomend, toda or skunk2? Let me know thoughts.
     
  15. E_SolSi

    E_SolSi Member of the 20 nut club Moderator VIP

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  16. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

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    looking over your mod list, one thing I would change is go with the 404 cams. Everyone complains how they suck for daily driving, however, in my friends integra LS (member name StyleTEG here and on TI), the idle is not really that bad, gas millage has not really suffered, and they are still fine for around town.

    The following is his dyno. The one line with the higher peak is the HP curve of a tuned, however pretty stock ITR, the other is his.

    [​IMG]

    Now his trq vs the ITR's trq.

    [​IMG]

    Although the ITR had higher peak numbers, his almost mild setup (only has cam gears, milled head for compression, springs and retainors, eManage, TINY exhaust for power, 3inch intake and SI tranny (however tranny does not effect Hp) at some points has over 20 more hp.


    As far as your last question, :withstupid: Toda gears have the most acurate degreeing, and if they ever do slip, can only go a few degrees. If you find spoon for a cheaper price, get spoon, as toda and spoon gears are EXACTLY the same.
     
  17. E_SolSi

    E_SolSi Member of the 20 nut club Moderator VIP

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    those dynos are beautiful

    he needs an ECU that will alow him to go to a higher RPM
    those cams would walk a type R all the way to the top

    very badass :thumbsup: :worthy:
     
  18. StyleTEG

    StyleTEG Senior Member

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    Hehe, I love seeing my dyno vs the ITR. Thanks for posting it up colin :) :thumbsup:

    I am working on a new ECU for the redline, and fixing my ignition timming issues (which is causing the weird dips in torque).

    You guys may know about this more than anyone. My idea is to run a OBD-II GSR Ecu, (P72). And use the GS-R Redline. I know I will throw several codes (vtec related, knock sensor, etc), but as long as those don't put me into limp mode I don't mind the CEL. Any clues as if this is something that woudl work or not?

    As far as gas milage, I still get awesome highway gas milage. Even with the 4,400rpm at 80mph. Case in point, I drove 2.5 hours to gingerman race way, did two 20min sessions, and drove another 2.5hours back on one tank of gas. And the gas light is not on yet.

    Go with the 404s. Switching to urethane motor mounts made a bigger difference at idle than these cams.
     
  19. korey

    korey Senior Member

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    So the 404's wont effect my idle to bad? Also, what header do you all recommend? Let me know any other thoughts.
     
  20. driftie_hatch

    driftie_hatch Member

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    Jersey, bitch.

    I'd say replacing the headgsket is spot on, while the facotry gaskets may hold they aren't made for that high compression ratio and could be problematic and cause power losses and other problems that may go unoticed until they become catastrophic. When building a motor it doesn't help to cut corners, if cost isn't an issue get the best of the best for what it is you're trying to accomplish.

    ps; that dyno chart is fuckin sick, whoever's car that is, congrats on the monster, well done.
     
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