b18c5 all motor build

[K2e2vin]

what kind of system was your friend running? as long as you have enough fuel with the nitrous and keep the a/f right it will run fine. tuning the motor and tuning the nitrous is seperate; because nitrous isnt on all the time so extra fuel has to be introduce the same time nitrous is introduce. the only incidents ive seen where a motor was blown from nitrous is a lean condition(usually with the dry setup).

 

[MikeBergy]

Originally posted by K2e2vin@Jun 25 2004, 08:35 PM
what kind of system was your friend running? as long as you have enough fuel with the nitrous and keep the a/f right it will run fine. tuning the motor and tuning the nitrous is seperate; because nitrous isnt on all the time so extra fuel has to be introduce the same time nitrous is introduce. the only incidents ive seen where a motor was blown from nitrous is a lean condition(usually with the dry setup).

Well, to keep everybody happy, there is a yes and a no answer to the whole n20 factor,
Yes, nitrous oxide can prematurely end the life of your motor, even if you have it "tuned" correctly. This also happens when turbos are tuned "properly". It's because your motor is putting out more power than it is capable of doing reliably. That is why people build there motors; to handle the power.

No it will not ruin your motor if you build the motor to handle the nitrous. In other words, make sure your engine is capable of handling the power output that it will be making. If you build it right, there will be no problems. If all you are doing is adding nitrous, and not reinforcing the motor to handle the added juice, of course you are going to blow it up. common sense. 50hp is 50hp, whether you gain it using nitrous, turbo, pnp, headers, whatever, and you have to prep the motor regardless. Anyway, my 2 cents, sorry for the threadjacking.

As for the the guys comparing each other's penis sizes, calm down, its just stupid and immature to get all huffed up about another's opinion. grow up, or the mods are gonna make you grow up-offline.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Originally posted by TurboSnatch@Jun 25 2004, 06:41 PM
and with 210 whp what kinda numbers at the track should i be expecting calesta?

No clue... depends on car weight, track conditions, tires, driving etc... go run it and find out.

 

[JDMilan]

hmmm, well just from my experience on my cars - I used it with my miata and the car ran fine for a while. I was runnning a 50shot dry and only when I raced people (I would probably fill up the 10lb bottle once every week or so - about 8-10 decent runs with it filled) I had zero problems.

I believe that you encounter problems when you don't have enough fuel when doing a dry setup, or your running a wet setup but the internals of the oem motor can't withstand "longevity wise" the type of combustion that actually going on.

Forged pistons > Cast pistons

The heat levels get bizzerck *sp, thus creating your cast piston to melt. So what I always recommend or say:

oem longblock (0-60shot dry)
built bottom (60+wet/dry with proper fuel of course)

Motors naturally wear down over time, regardless - parts get worn and so on and so on.

 

[driverunknown]

Originally posted by vtecsir1+Jun 25 2004, 06:40 PM-->

driverunknown

@Jun 25 2004, 06:33 PM
Yeah if Johhny Tran pulls you over and shoots your car while the bottles are open you are so ed man.

ignorance at its best

Sarcasm owns you.

 

[nismogod]

even with perfect tuning, nitrous adds extra wear and tear on your ENGINE <motor is an electical device, just to be a deuche bah> lol. if you are tuned well, nitrous will help the cause more so then hinder it. But it will decrease the lifespan of your engine. extra heat and stress.

your tires dont fail because you do a burnout<nitrous in engine>. but keep on doin it, even if you have tougher tires<tuning of engine>, the tires will fail eventually.


whore-able, lol, analogy. but you get the point. 210hp in your car? how many fat chics? which tires? can you drive? are you narcaleptic? it all matters, but assuming you are slightly competant, ima garuntee you atleast a 14 seconds pass. even if it is in the 1/8th mile. lol.

 

[dohch22a4]

Nitrous is cheating anyway.

Hasport makes everything for the EG/DC K series swap now. They make mounts, wiring conversion harness so you can run obd 1, a custom header, the new support for the EP3/RSX-S radiator you're going to need.

 

[K2e2vin]

Originally posted by nismogod@Jun 27 2004, 05:17 PM
ENGINE <motor is an electical device, just to be a deuche bah>

to be a smartass a motor can be a internal combustion engine or a electric motor; but only a internal combustion motor is called an engine. a motor just means something to do with motion or something. while engine means to change fuel, steam, etc. into motion and power..

 

[nismogod]

Originally posted by K2e2vin+Jun 28 2004, 04:02 AM-->

nismogod

@Jun 27 2004, 05:17 PM
ENGINE <motor is an electical device, just to be a deuche bah>

to be a smartass a motor can be a internal combustion engine or a electric motor; but only a internal combustion motor is called an engine. a motor just means something to do with motion or something. while engine means to change fuel, steam, etc. into motion and power..

a rotating machine that transforms electrical energy into mechanical energy

per webster.com lol. it also uses an internal combustion engine as a syn.


here the full def.

1 : one that imparts motion; specifically : PRIME MOVER
2 : any of various power units that develop energy or impart motion: as a : a small compact engine b : INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE; especially : a gasoline engine c : a rotating machine that transforms electrical energy into mechanical energy


i conceed. it was fun tho.

and nitrous isn't cheating any more then a turbo or SC. i wish i had done a k series swap. lol

 

[K2e2vin]

electricity is not energy; it is the flow of electrons

 

[integraslut78]

Get some Crower 403 cams some adjustable cam gears I/H/E and maybe a VAFC or a Hondata tune it and there you go. You do not need 225 whp to run 13's my buddy runs 195hp on a all motor GSR and his worst runs are 12.8.

 

[radnulb]

210WHP with an ITR motor is cams, valvetrain, boltons, tuning.
If you wanna cheat, run some nitrous.
Enough said. Why all the bitching?

 

[B16]

 

[TurboSnatch]

Originally posted by integraslut78@Jun 28 2004, 12:13 PM
Get some Crower 403 cams some adjustable cam gears I/H/E and maybe a VAFC or a Hondata tune it and there you go. You do not need 225 whp to run 13's my buddy runs 195hp on a all motor GSR and his worst runs are 12.8.

thanks. thats all i really need to know, and thanks to everyone else that answered my questions. i figured u would need 225 to hit low 13's high 12's. my goal will be 200whp then ill shoot for 225

 

[Sergey P.A.]

keep it in mind, in order to do a K series swap you will have to change some suspension parts, I am not sure; but, I beleive that you will have to change the cross memeber or watever is called,

I would get a B18c1 because:
is cheaper than a type r, you will change the head components any ways, you will change the i/h/e,

my .02 type R's are best bang for the buck if you will keep it stock, but if you will change all that stuff just get a GSR engine and work your way up,

like i/h/e, IM, port and polish the head, and some kind of fuel management system, oh eah and by the way some after market cams, if you'll get Stage 1's I think you will have a healthy 200+ hp this way,

 

[jamesA]

Originally posted by Sergey P.A.@Jul 3 2004, 02:50 AM
my .02 type R's are best bang for the buck if you will keep it stock

I do partially agree, but I think an ITR motor is the best bang for the buck on an NA build up...

b16/b18 GSR for turbo...of course, but if you want NA power, ITR c5 all the way.

 

[K2e2vin]

doesnt a ITR swap cost as much as a k20a2 swap? (around 5000?)

 

[E_SolSi]

thats like saying an H22 swap is the same price as an LS or B16 swap


theres MUCH more to a K series in an EG/EK/etc than just buying the engine

 

[nismogod]

h22 if you are keepin it stock. thats what i thinks.