b20 b16 You tell me!!!

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khai_tuan_nguyen

Senior Member
with a stock b16 head and a stock b20b block what is a safe rev limit. I really do not want to damage or blow my engine.

What about a b16 head with a b20b block w/ arias 11:1 compression.
What is a safe rev limit.

What can i do to make my engine durable, last forever and rev high reliably.

Thanks
Khai

Hondaswap owns :worthy:
 
to get it to last forever, sleeve it, and get an aftermarket valvetrain. everything. springs, retainers, valves, cams. but im guessing you should be able to rev to the b16 redline, or a little less because of the b20 internals. i wouldnt go above the b20's redline limit to be safe.
 
do what cointelpro said. sleeve, upgrade valvetrain, rods, arp bolts etc. check out the FAQ section on this site, i remember seeing somthing on this topic. basically, dont cut corners, and it will be reliable.
 
add a crank girdle, arp rod bolts and head bolts, and with pistons and you should be able to hit 8500 fine...for now I would say 7500
 
Originally posted by khai_tuan_nguyen@Nov 26 2003, 01:12 PM
with a stock b16 head and a stock b20b block what is a safe rev limit. I really do not want to damage or blow my engine.

What about a b16 head with a b20b block w/ arias 11:1 compression.
What is a safe rev limit.

What can i do to make my engine durable, last forever and rev high reliably.

Thanks
Khai

Hondaswap owns :worthy:
Click to expand...

My brother has a b20z/VTEC set up in his Si. Completely stock internals. He takes it to almost 8000rpm's.

As for sleeving it, you could just buy another block for way less than the price it would cost to sleeve it. However, since b20's are like b18b blocks, they have no valve relief so yes it would be a good idea to upgrade your valve train, just incase. Webb makes very good and reliable valve springs and retainers.
It also wouldn't hurt to get a thicker head gasket to be safe. Don't get your head milled either.

So heres the low down: if you want your motor to last you a while or "forever" as you stated, then do only the necessary upgrades (valve train) or if you want you can go all out and get your block sleeved. DO NOT get on it constantly and maintain your car whenever possible.

The first thing I would do though is get a compression guage and check how much compression you're putting out per cylinder, I doubt it will be very high probably about 175-180 per cylinder depending if you have the b20b4 or b20z2 which has a higher compression ratio. If your compression is not too high than I just see sleeving your block as a waste, not to mention you'll be without your block for a while. So there you go, make sure your oil line isn't leaking and that all the fittings for the oil line in the back of the block are tight.
 
actually sleaving is not as expensive as most people think, you just need to shop around, there is a thread on honda-tech with a guy that does sleeving for 900 bucks flat. he has tons of recommendations and your block gets individually treated by only ONE guy. all you hafta pay is 900+shipping. which i think is a great price for what you get out of sleeving.
 
seen sleeving go for 500 bucks, pretty good insurance and the opportunity to further enhance your motor ourput latter down the road.
 
Thanks guys this is really good info. I am getting my car back form the shop with a b20b block and b16 head with arias pistons and all stock internals. I just wanted to know what i could rev to. Also how much are the prices for internals and all.
springs
retainers
etc.

I am getting arp headbolts already, but that is it. OEM head gasket etc.

Thanks again
 
yeah you'll be fine with the arias, the only thing is the valve clearance is low on the b20 pistons which keeps the rev limit low unless you notch the pistons...
 
Thanks ludegirl, but what do you mean valve clearances, how does that affect rev? And notch the pistons? So it should be ok for me to hit around redlien with all my stock internals head and block? w vtec?
 
What I take that to mean is that when the piston is at TDC, there is barely any space (valve clearance) between the piston surface and the fully opened valve, which is where the bad contact (floated valve) will occur. Removing material from the piston can give the valve room to open without impact, but the CR will decease a little, which could be beneficial to the long life you want from your motor.
 
Originally posted by NotUrAverage_Si@Nov 27 2003, 09:53 PM

My brother has a b20z/VTEC set up in his Si. Completely stock internals. He takes it to almost 8000rpm's.

As for sleeving it, you could just buy another block for way less than the price it would cost to sleeve it. However, since b20's are like b18b blocks, they have no valve relief so yes it would be a good idea to upgrade your valve train, just incase. Webb makes very good and reliable valve springs and retainers.
It also wouldn't hurt to get a thicker head gasket to be safe. Don't get your head milled either.

So heres the low down: if you want your motor to last you a while or "forever" as you stated, then do only the necessary upgrades (valve train) or if you want you can go all out and get your block sleeved. DO NOT get on it constantly and maintain your car whenever possible.

The first thing I would do though is get a compression guage and check how much compression you're putting out per cylinder, I doubt it will be very high probably about 175-180 per cylinder depending if you have the b20b4 or b20z2 which has a higher compression ratio. If your compression is not too high than I just see sleeving your block as a waste, not to mention you'll be without your block for a while. So there you go, make sure your oil line isn't leaking and that all the fittings for the oil line in the back of the block are tight.
Click to expand...

Stock B20b/B16 setup should give you 155 psi.

Also, you are spitting out some poor information. The B20 is notorious for having weak sleaves. Any piston over stock compression in the B20 is asking for trouble. Take the time to do it right, get it sleaved, then use some 11.1 or 12.5's.

If you're too cheap to sleave it, stay away from the B20, and downgrade to a B18, and get it bored out .25 over. At least then you wont have as big a problem cracking sleaves.

Myself, and a few others here recommend to our customers, not to take it over 8200rpm, on a stock motor. If you keep it at 6700, you just wasted your money on a vtec head.
 
:no:


theres plenty of people running 11.5:1+ CR on a stock sleeved B20 and reving to 8k+ regularly with no problems at all

i believe Calesta was running 12.6:1 on his.... with no problems

its all about proper tuning

the "b20 sleeves are weak" thing, is about as accurate as the "LS/VTECs are not reliable" thing... if done properly (built and tuned right) you will have no problems
 
This is good to know, so what does it actually mean to be "built right" I mean I had it build professionally, had all the gaskets, seals, bearings replaced. What is built wrong and what happens?

Oh and thanks again. I'm just learning and don't want to blow my motor

Khai
 
did you use ARP rod bolts? i would at least get those, $34 for the set is cheap insurance.
 
ARP rod bolts are just like ARP head studs ... but they replace the stock rod bolts instead of the stock head studs
 
Originally posted by khai_tuan_nguyen@Dec 3 2003, 09:43 AM
what are arp rod bolts. I got arp head studs for $100
Click to expand...

yikes you over paid... :(

ARP is about 20 minutes down the street from my house, and they sell them for something like 50 bucks?

and as for the comment of b20 having weak sleeves... i totally AGREE!!! the b20 has some pretty damned weak sleeves, when i was at the machine shop i saw a b20 block SNAP IN HALF between cylinders 2 & 3 when they were prepping to sleeve it

although yes i have seen alot of other b20/vtec set ups last awhile, i just dont trust them without aftermarket sleeves

B)
 
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